Dang: Active but Disconnected!

Traveling is about discovering new things, exploring unknown places, and understanding different people and their lives. But what's the point of these amazing experiences if there's no one to share them with?

Some people admire the seemingly carefree life of Indian tribes. They perceive them as free from the worries of money, wealth, and authority. No stress, no struggles, just freedom to do as they please, to wander where they wish. It's a stark contrast to our urban lives, where we graduate from college only to struggle to find jobs, change multiple jobs to chase after money, and barely have time to dream. We're caught in the cycle of supporting our families and paying for our children's education, only to find ourselves with little to live for after retirement. It's a harsh reality that makes some people yearn for the simplicity of tribal life.

Oh, I broke free from this mythical notion when I delved into one of India's largest tribes head-on. I spent 7-8 days exploring the tribal villages of Dang during my study tour in midwinter 2018. Dang stands as Gujarat's largest tribal district, boasting a population of over 2.10 lakhs. Quite impressive, isn't it?

The world has never been as divided as it is now. On one side, we witness the marvels of technology, gadgets, towering buildings, well-paved roads, and state-of-the-art hospitals. On the flip side, there are remote areas and communities completely unaware of such modern conveniences. For them, the mysteries beyond the forests and mountains remain untouched and unknown.

During my visit, I explored villages like Gondalvihar, Mahalpada, Dhuda, Borkhal, and a few others in Dang. At first sight, the area appeared like a piece of heaven nestled among the towering mountains. The landscape boasted golden-green fields where locals cultivated rice, fruits, and various crops. The atmosphere exuded tranquility and peace, with the morning sun casting a golden glow that refreshed the mind and spirit, momentarily alleviating all worries.

Despite living in today's modern world, the tribes have admirably preserved their ancient rituals, customs, and culture. They continue to use mud and cow dung to plaster their homes, showcasing their deep-rooted traditions. Warli paintings adorn their walls, a cherished part of their cultural heritage. However, as the saying goes, every bright side has a darker facet. Behind their cheerful faces, challenges and struggles often lurk, reminding us that not all is as idyllic as it seems.

Most tribes communicate in their own dialects, but fortunately, I was able to converse with them as 70% of their language was Marathi. By speaking in Marathi, I earned their trust and gained insight into significant aspects of their lives. When discussing their health and sanitation concerns, they mentioned that while they could easily obtain medicines for common illnesses, they had to travel over 30-35 kilometers to Ahwa for more severe conditions.

They cultivate crops like Rice, Varai, Paddi, Nagli, etc., but due to low farming yields, they often resort to hunting animals and fishing. However, they cannot rely solely on these methods. Hence, they travel to nearby towns to work as laborers in sugarcane fields. Working tirelessly for 10 to 12 hours a day, they spend 6-7 months away from their families until late summers. Their livelihood largely depends on the income generated from sugarcane harvesting.

A 10-year-old kid once said, 'I would prefer working on a sugarcane farm over going to school. I enjoy it more’

Despite the rich forest resources in Dang, Gujarat, the average literacy rate in rural areas stands at only 73.4% of the total population. Consequently, residents face challenges in securing employment opportunities. Moreover, Dang is among the most backward districts in Gujarat, with approximately two-thirds of its inhabitants living below the poverty line.

I inquired about their extensive farms and wondered why they needed to seek labor work on other farms. Their response revealed a stark reality: many Dang residents are burdened with debt. They've borrowed funds from Mukadams to meet basic needs, highlighting the precarious nature of their possessions.

Upon delving deeper into their lives, it became evident that they are ensnared in poverty, which gradually consumes them due to factors such as debt, migration, illiteracy, labor, and early marriages.

Despite facing numerous challenges, they maintain an overwhelming smile and a willingness to assist in any way possible. While they may be introverted, they exhibit creativity in various forms such as craft, painting, art, and dance.

I may not have all the answers on how to assist them, but I believe it's crucial to respect their dignity. If you encounter a migrant, laborer, or vendor far from home, refrain from bargaining over prices. Every penny holds immense value to them.

My experience with the Dang tribe has underscored the significance of resilience in the face of adversity.

“Go to the community and the locations that have set a sparkle in your psyche. That’s how you find your Tribe” – Karl Wiggins

Thank you!