The Curry Crisis - Why Authenticity Matters? - The Case of Mulligatawny Soup!

There is an ongoing curry 'authenticity' crisis in the UK, and many stakeholders in the market—including Indian curry houses, the government, and supermarkets—seem to have no clear resolution for this nearly ￡5 billion industry.

The status of curry as the nation’s favorite food has attracted a wide array of competitors into the market. What began as Indian curry nearly 200 years ago has now expanded into many different versions: Pakistani curry, Bangladeshi curry, Burmese (Myanmar) curry, Malaysian curry, Thai green and red curry, Japanese curry, Chinese curry, Korean curry, Indonesian curry, Sri Lankan curry, Mauritian curry, South African curry, Réunion curry, Caribbean curry, and more recently, Vietnamese curry. On top of this, we now have British curry as well.

Adding to the confusion, some British authors have even suggested that it was the British who introduced curry into India —a nation that was only unified under British rule during the colonial era. This claim further muddies the waters, leaving customers puzzled about which version of curry is truly authentic. The current players in the market are all trying to convince customers that their version is authentic, but without convincing evidence. As a result, curry-loving customers are looking elsewhere, leading to the permanent shutdown of curry houses—what is now being referred to as the 'curry crisis.'

Through my articles, videos, and blog posts, I am doing my best to educate people about this crisis, which is rooted in the authenticity of curry.

Curry is a word from the Tamil language, considered one of the oldest languages in the world. Along with curry, other words like Mulligatawny, Poppadom, Rasam, Congee, and Mango entered the English language in the 16th century via the Portuguese. It's important to note that the English East India Company was founded in the 17th century.

For the Tamils, who traditionally inhabit the southern regions of India and the northern and eastern regions of Sri Lanka , and now live all over the world, curry is a culinary heritage that spans more than three millennia. Yes, curry is the world’s oldest culinary tradition.

Mulligatawny Soup: The Tip of the Iceberg of the Authenticity Issue

Major brands like Heinz and supermarkets under their own brands market Mulligatawny soup in packet and canned forms. Since no one has challenged this from an authentic perspective—until now, from myself as a Tamil—each marketer has had their own interpretation of the soup, sometimes even thinking of it as innovative.

But what would you think or say if you were sold an apple pie that contained no apples? You would likely feel disappointed or even cheated.

That’s exactly how I feel. Mulligatawny is not just one word—it’s a combination of two separate words. Would you believe that the common understanding of Mulligatawny is incorrect? It’s derived from the spoken Tamil words used in rural areas for centuries. "Millaku" is the correct Tamil word for black pepper, and "Thaneer" is the correct word for water. So, "Millaku Thaneer" means black pepper water or black pepper soup when other ingredients are added.

But you may have figured out by now that "Mulligatawny" is a lazy, informal version of these Tamil words, especially used in rural areas, and still in use today. Like Mulligatawny, "Mallitawny" refers to coriander water ("Malli" is the Tamil word for coriander). "Sukkutawny" is for dry ginger water, and there are many more such examples.

When Europeans first arrived in Tamil regions 500 years ago, they relied on local remedies like Mulligatawny for their ailments, as allopathic medicine was not yet available. Initially, Mulligatawny was a medicinal liquid, but later it evolved into a soup. Despite this evolution, black pepper remains a crucial ingredient.

However, many commercial versions today omit it entirely. I am sure this is not deliberate, but the manufacturers likely do not understand the meaning of the word "Mulligatawny," or that it is a combination of two entirely different words referring to two separate items.

Mangai is the Tamil word for unripe fruit. When the Portuguese took this to Brazil and South America from the Tamils, they omitted the "i" at the end and referred to it as "Manga." When the word came into English, the "a" at the end became "o," and so we have "Mango" in English. The point is, "Mango" originally referred to an unripe fruit. There is another word in Tamil for ripe fruit that didn’t make it into Portuguese, and hence, into English.

This is just the tip of the iceberg of what is going on with the curry that is served in supermarkets and Indian curry houses. The authenticity issue is a significant reason why the crisis is affecting curry houses. You can’t ignore customers' concerns about authenticity for long. If supermarkets don’t pay attention now, they will face the same challenges with their curry takeaway retail businesses that Indian curry houses are facing.

I am advocating that supermarkets must provide true value for their loyal customers' money. If their concerns are not addressed, customers will look elsewhere for their culinary needs.

In my observation, this shift is already happening, as Indian curry houses are experiencing. Wagamama and Nando's, for example, are benefiting from these changes. In my book, I discuss the 2,500-year-long black pepper-based pre-chili era and the 500-plus-year post-chili era.

What we have in the UK is a slightly modified version of pre-chili era non-vegetarian curry. It must be upgraded to authentic Tamil curry with its vegan, vegetarian, and plant-based dishes, including millet dishes as well as non-vegetarian curries.

Curry has been Europeanized by the Portuguese, Dutch, Danish, French, and British. All of them arrived in the Curry Zone, or Coromandel as the Dutch referred to it. The Portuguese were the first to arrive with chili to the Tamils in the 15th century. They captured islets off today's Sri Lanka, and one of those islets, Kayts (Dutch name), is where I was born and raised.

In these islets, the world’s first innovative Tamil-Portuguese curry powder was created, and the recipe has been passed down through generations for the last 500 years. As you might correctly guess, like Mulligatawny soup, the curry powder in supermarkets is missing key ingredients and includes others that shouldn't be there. One such missing ingredient is chili - in so called 'mild' version, while it includes wheat flour and sugar—additions that would make my grandmothers, both paternal and maternal, roll in their graves.

The ratio of ingredients in Tamil-Portuguese curry powder should remain consistent to preserve the authentic flavor. Each ingredient is carefully roasted separately at different temperatures and for varying durations to achieve the best flavor before being combined and pounded together.

The spiciness of the dish is not altered by changing the formula but by adjusting the amount of curry powder added. Therefore, unlike many commercial products, Tamil-Portuguese curry powder does not come in unnecessary "mild," "hot," or "very hot" versions. Authenticity matters here too.

It is important to note that with the introduction of chili and other new vegetables by the Portuguese, Tamil curry evolved from its ancient black pepper-based paste to a chili-based curry powder. However, supermarkets still sell modified versions of curry paste and dishes made with it, which raises authenticity issues similar to those seen with Mulligatawny, as discussed above.

Let’s work together to ensure that curry lovers enjoy truly authentic curry. Supermarkets should not ignore this call to authenticity.

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Get ready for the Curry Masterclass?!

Discover the Tamil Curry tradition, a journey through over 3200 years of ancient culinary heritage in the upcoming Curry Masterclass?. Explore flavors from the pre-chili era to the post-chili era, enriched with European influences. Join us to experience the true essence of Tamil cuisine, featuring vegan, vegetarian, and plant-based dishes, including millets, as well as non-vegetarian options. Information will be made available shortly—stay tuned for a flavorful adventure like no other.

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