Counting Penguins in Antarctica: An Unforgettable Experience with Oceanites

As the CEO of a company, stepping back into the field isn’t exactly the norm. Most of my time is spent on the bigger picture of Edgewise, our long term vision and growth. But for me, getting back into hands-on research like this isn’t just a passion—it’s essential. It refills my cup, keeps me in touch with evolving techniques and current issues, and reminds me why I do this work in the first place.

For ten days, I had the incredible opportunity to work with Oceanites, a nonprofit dedicated to monitoring penguin populations and understanding the impacts of climate change in Antarctica. Alongside another colleague and fellow scientist, I spent nearly two weeks flying drones, manually counting nests and chicks, and immersing myself in one of the most breathtaking places on Earth.

Life as a Penguin Counter

Our days started early, layering up against the chill before hopping into a zodiac to reach our survey sites. Honestly, it was not as cold as I expected (says the woman from Newfoundland).? Once on land, we’d assess the colony—mostly Gentoos and Chinstraps—and decide how best to use our time: a drone flight, a manual count, or both. Counting involved tracking nests and/or chicks, crucial data points that help data analysts measure how these populations are faring over time.

The work was hands-on, sometimes messy (penguin guano is no joke), and always rewarding. The terrain could be tricky, especially with Chinstrap colonies perched high on icy, rocky cliffs. But despite the physical demands, the sheer beauty of the place made every step worth it.

Penguins, Whales, and Unexpected Visitors

One of the things that struck me most was how vocal penguins are. Their sounds range from gentle coos to deep, guttural warnings when predators, such as Skuas, get too close. It was fascinating to pick up on these nuances and get a sense of their behaviors.

And then there were the surprises—moments of pure magic. Like the time I was counting a Gentoo colony in near-perfect conditions: the sun was shining, it was almost 10°C, and the landscape was absolutely still. Then, right below me, a Minke whale surfaced and glided through the channel. I actually had to stop counting for a second just to take it all in.

Or the time I turned a corner and came upon a Weddell seal lounging on the rocks, completely unfazed by my presence. I was at a safe distance. These encounters were constant reminders of just how alive Antarctica is.

Why This Work Matters

Oceanites has been doing this kind of research for over 30 years, tracking penguin populations across the Antarctic Peninsula. Their work is critical—not just for understanding how penguins are responding to climate change, but also for informing conservation efforts worldwide. Their Antarctic Site Inventory project has conducted over 2,700 site visits, collecting data that’s used by scientists and policymakers alike.

One of the biggest takeaways from this trip was seeing firsthand how climate change is reshaping the region. While Adélie and Chinstrap penguin numbers have declined in recent years, Gentoo populations have been expanding their range. These shifts tell an important story about how species adapt—or struggle to adapt—to a changing environment.

Lessons from the Edge of the World

There’s something humbling about standing in a place where nature still calls the shots. In Antarctica, humans don’t dominate the landscape—we move around wildlife, not the other way around. It’s a shared space, a delicate balance, and it reinforced for me just how much respect and responsibility we have toward protecting these environments.

Stepping back into the field like this isn’t something every CEO does, but for me, it’s invaluable. It keeps me grounded, sharpens my understanding of the real-world challenges we’re working to solve, and reminds me why I fell in love with this work in the first place.

Would I go back? Without a doubt. And if you ever get the chance to do something like this, take it. Be ready for adventure, respect the wildlife, and bring a good pair of boots—you’re going to need them.

Oceanites (“ocean-eye-tees”) is the world’s only publicly supported non-profit? Antarctic research program . You can donate to purchase merchandise / adopt a colony here: https://www.oceanites.org/take-action

Learn more about Oceanites here: https://www.oceanites.org/