Cotton Fibers and its Properties Properties,
Hebei Chengfang Import and Export Co., Ltd
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Cotton Fibers and its Properties
Properties, classification, and methods to identify the attributes of cotton fibers
USTER? HVI is used for measurement of the most important cotton fiber properties of micronaire, fiber length (UHML), uniformity, short fiber index, strength, elongation, color, trash content, and degree of maturity.
Cotton is the most important natural textile fiber, as well as cellulosic textile fiber, in the world, used to produce apparel, home furnishings, and industrial products. Worldwide about 40% of the fiber consumed in 2004 was cotton.
Cotton fibers are seed hairs from plants of the order Malvales, family Malvaceae, tribe Gossypieae, and genus Gossypium. Botanically, there are four principal domesticated species of cotton of commercial importance: hirsutum, barbadense, aboreum, and herbaceum. Thirty-three species are currently recognized; however, all but these four are wild shrubs of no commercial value. Each one of the commercially important species contains many different varieties developed through breeding programs to produce cotton with continually improving properties (e.g., faster maturing, increased yields, and improved insect and disease resistance) and fibers with greater length, strength, and uniformity.
The cotton fibers used in textile commerce are the dried cell walls of formerly living cells. Botanically, cotton fibers are trichomes or seed coat hairs that differentiate from epidermal cells of the developing cottonseed. The cotton flower blooms only for one day and quickly becomes senescent thereafter. On the day of full bloom, or anthesis, the flower petals are pure white in most hirsutum varieties. By the day after anthesis, the petals turn bright pink in color, and, usually by the second day after anthesis, the petals fall off the developing carpel (boll).
Each cotton fiber is composed of concentric layers and a hollow central core is known as the lumen. The outermost layer, known as the cuticle, is a thin layer of fats, proteins, and waxes.
Beneath the cuticle is the primary wall, composed mainly of cellulose in which fibrils are arranged in a criss-cross pattern. Further towards the center is the secondary wall composed of cellulose, which consists of the bulk of the fiber.
Composition Cotton
Composition (% Dry Weight)ConstituentTypical %Range %Cellulose95.088.0–96.0Protein (%N 6.25)
% N?– The standard method of estimating percent protein from the nitrogen content1.31.1–1.9Pectic substances0.90.7–1.2Ash1.20.7–1.6Wax0.60.4–1.0Total sugars0.30.1–1.0Organic acids0.80.5–1.0Pigment trace––Others1.4–
Classing Cotton
Cotton buyers judge cotton on the basis of samples cut from the bales. Skilled cotton classers grade or “class” the cotton according to standards established by the US Department of Agriculture such as cleanliness, the degree of whiteness, length of the fiber, and fiber strength.
The classes pull a sample. They discard most of the cotton until just a pinch of well-aligned fibers remains. They measure the length of the fibers, referred to as staple fibers. Longer staple fibers are higher-grade cotton and are sold at higher prices. Long staples range from 1.1 inches to 1.4 inches long.
The USTER? HVI classing is the standard classification system in the United States and also for the international cotton trade. USTER? HVI is used for measurement of the most important cotton fiber properties of micronaire, fiber length (UHML), uniformity, short fiber index, strength, elongation, color, trash content, and degree of maturity. HVI classing has been available to all growers since 1981.
Methods for Classifying Cotton Fiber
Measurements for fiber length, length uniformity, fiber strength, micronaire, color grade, trash, and leaf grade are performed by precise High Volume Instruments, in a process commonly referred to as “high volume instrument classification.” Only extraneous matter and special conditions are still officially classified by the traditional method of classer determination.
Fiber Length
Fiber length is the average length of the longer half of the fibers (upperhalf mean length). It is reported in both 100ths and 32nds of an inch. Fiber length is measured by passing a “beard” of parallel fibers through an optical sensing point. The beard is formed when fibers from a sample of cotton are automatically grasped by a clamp, then combed and brushed into parallel orientation.
Fiber length is largely influenced by variety,?but the cotton plant’s exposure to extreme temperatures, water stress, or nutrient
deficiencies may result in shorter fibers. Excessive cleaning or drying at the gin may also result in shorter fibers. Fiber length
affects yarn strength, yarn evenness, and the efficiency of the spinning process. The fineness of the yarn that can be successfully produced from given fibers also is influenced by fiber length.
Length Uniformity
Length uniformity is the ratio between the mean length and the upper-half mean length of the fibers, expressed as a percentage. If all of the fibers in the bale were the same length, the mean length, and the upper-half mean length would be the same, and the uniformity would be 100 percent. However, because of natural variation in the length of cotton fibers, length uniformity will always be less than 100 percent. The table below is a guide to interpreting length uniformity measurements.
Length uniformity affects yarn evenness and strength and the efficiency of the spinning process. It is also related to short-fiber content (the content of fibers shorter than 1/2 inch). Cotton with a low uniformity index is likely to have a high percentage of short fibers. Such cotton may be difficult to process and is likely to produce low-quality yarn.
Fiber Strength
Strength measurements are reported in grams per tex. A tex unit is equal to the weight in grams of 1,000 meters of fiber. Therefore, the strength reported is the force in grams required to break a bundle of fibers one tex unit in size. Strength measurements are made on the same beards of cotton that are used for measuring fiber length. The beard is clamped in two sets of jaws, 1/8 inch apart, and the amount of force required to break the fibers is determined. The table below is a guide to interpreting fiber strength measurements.
Fiber strength is largely determined by variety. However, it may be affected by plant nutrient deficiencies and weather. Fiber strength and yarn strength are highly correlated. Also, cotton with high fiber strength is more likely to withstand breakage during the manufacturing process.
Micronaire
Micronaire is a measure of fiber fineness and maturity. An airflow instrument is used to measure the air permeability of a constant mass of cotton fibers compressed to a fixed volume. The chart below is a guide to interpreting micronaire measurements.
Micronaire can be influenced during the growing period by environmental conditions such as moisture, temperature, sunlight, plant
nutrients, and extremes in plant or boll population. Fiber fineness affects processing performance and the quality of the end product in several ways. In the opening, cleaning, and carding processes, low-micronaire or fine-fiber cotton require slower processing speeds to prevent damage Fiber length and strength measurements are made on the same “beard” of cotton.
Color Grade
Color grade is determined by the degree of reflectance (Rd) and yellowness (+b) as established by official standards and measured by the high volume instrument. Reflectance indicates how bright or dull a sample is, and yellowness indicates the degree of pigmentation.
The color of cotton fibers can be affected by rainfall, freezes, insects, fungi, and staining through contact with soil, grass, or cotton-plant leaf. Color can also be affected by excessive moisture and temperature levels during storage, both before and after ginning. Color deterioration because of environmental conditions affects the fibers’ ability to absorb and hold dyes and finishes and is likely to reduce processing efficiency.
Trash
Trash is a measure of the amount of non-lint materials in cotton, such as leaves and bark from the cotton plant. The surface of the cotton sample is scanned by a digital camera, and the digital image is analyzed. The percentage of the surface area occupied by trash particles (percent area) and the number of trash particles visible (particle count) are calculated and reported.
The ratio between the percent area of trash and trash particle count is a good indicator of the average particle size in a cotton sample. For instance, a low percent area combined with a high particle count indicates a smaller average particle size than does a high percent area with a low particle count.
A high percent area of trash results in greater textile mill processing waste and lower yarn quality. Small trash particles, or “pepper trash,” are highly undesirable, because they are more difficult for the mill to remove from the cotton lint than are larger trash particles.
Leaf Grade
Leaf grade is a measure of the leaf content in cotton. Recent extensive research and development work has resulted in acceptance of instrument leaf grade. Leaf grade is now determined by high volume instrument trash meter percent area and particle count (described above for trash). The leaf grade is calculated from these parameters based on the Universal Upland Grade Standards and American Pima Grade Standards.
Leaf content is affected by plant variety, harvesting methods, and harvesting conditions. The amount of leaf remaining in the lint after
ginning depends on the amount present in the cotton before ginning, the amount of cleaning, and the type of cleaning and drying equipment used. Even with the most careful harvesting and ginning methods, a small amount of leaf remains in the cotton lint. From the manufacturing standpoint, leaf content is all waste, and there is a cost factor associated with its removal. Also, small particles cannot always be successfully removed, and these particles may detract from the quality of the finished product.
Extraneous Matter
The extraneous matter is any substance in the cotton other than fiber or leaf. Examples of extraneous matter are the bark, grass, spindle twist, seed coat fragments, dust, oil, and plastic. The kind of extraneous matter and an indication of the amount (light or heavy) are noted by the classer as a remark on the classification document.
Another factor noted on the classification record under “extraneous matter” is abnormal preparation. “Preparation,” or “prep,” describes the degree of smoothness or roughness of the ginned cotton lint. Various methods of harvesting, handling, and ginning cotton produce differences in roughness or smoothness of preparation that sometimes are quite apparent. Abnormal preparation of Upland cotton has greatly decreased in recent years as a result of improved harvesting and ginning practices and now occurs in less than half of one percent of the crop.
Stickiness
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FIBER
Cotton Fibers – the king of fibers
Cellulose-seed fiber from the nature
As in the case of maturity, considerable effort has been directed over a number of years towards the HVI measurement of stickiness, a NIR-based measurement having been incorporated in HVI systems at one stage but then withdrawn thereafter (in 1995). On certain of the new generation high volume testing systems (e.g. Lintronic FQT Fibro-Lab), sticky spots on card rollers are measured directly.
Properties & Uses
The fibers are sent to a textile mill where carding machines turn the fibers into cotton yarn. The yarns are woven into cloth that is comfortable and easy to wash but does wrinkle easily. Cotton fabric will shrink about 3% when washed unless pre-treated to resist shrinking.
Cotton is prized for its comfort, easy-care, and affordability and is ideal for clothing, bedding, towels, and furnishings.
Characteristics of Cotton Fibers and Products
Fiber quality requirements
For any material to qualify as a textile fiber, it must possess certain essential properties. The primary requirements include a high length-to-width ratio, sufficient tenacity, flexibility, and cohesiveness (Dever, 1995).
In general cotton quality requirements Proceedings of the World Cotton Research Conference -2. Athens, Greece, September 6-12, 1998. pp.85-93. U. Kechagia and H. Harig of all spinning systems are summarized as follows (Kechagia, 1994).
However, fiber properties are differently interpreted by the various spinning systems and the selection of the correct raw material for any of them is of utmost importance to the spinner.
The major quality parameters for the traditional ring system, the open-end or rotor spinning, and the recent innovations such as friction (DREF) and the air-jet spinning are given in table 1 in descending order of importance. In table 2 are given the acceptable limits for the same parameters in ring and rotor spinning.
The use-value of fibers depends mainly upon the above physical properties but as we mentioned these are not sufficient to describe the spinnability of any cotton. Others not included in this table are of equal or sometimes of greater importance. The estimation of short fiber content (SFC %) of neps and seed coat fragments as well as of color, stickiness, and foreign matter became a necessity.
Cotton fiber properties
An important consideration prior to any effort of?improving quality?is to obtain reliable information on the properties, likely to be improved as well as the technical specification of the input for various end uses.
The molecular arrangement within the fiber and the conditions of fiber formation, impact the properties that make cotton fiber readily distinguished from all other textile fibers. All significant fiber properties are listed below, classified in relevant groups (Steadman,
1997; Hunter, 1998).
Fiber elongation is an important property that has received little attention so far. The role of elongation has not been fully defined yet but there is evidence that it strongly influences processing efficiency (Kechagia, 1996). Recent research is focused on clarifying the
effect of elongation on yarn quality and improving or inventing methods to assess fiber elongation accurately (Uster, 1998).
The main objectives of cotton fiber improvement are summarized in:
Commonly tested Cotton Fiber properties
Cotton fiber properties in different spinning systems
Ring SpinningRotor SpinningFriction SpinningAir jet SpinningLengthStrengthStrengthFinenessUniformityFinenessFinenessLengthStrengthLengthLengthL. UniformityFinenessL UniformityL. UniformityStrengthElongationCleanlinessFiber FrictionCleanliness
Spinnable limits for efficient spinning
Fiber PropertiesRing spinningRotor or open-end spinningLengthmin 1-1 1/8 inchmin 7/8 inchUniformitymin 45%min 45%Micronaire3.5-5.0max 4.Maturitymin 80%min 70%Strengthmin 25g/texmin 26g/texForeign mattermax 2%max 1.5%
Tensile Properties of Cotton Fibers
Tensile properties of yarns and fabrics depend on both complex fibers arrangements (includes length, diameter, friction, etc.) inside the yarn and fabric structure, and also on the tensile properties of fibers. That is, while information about the complex relationships between fiber arrangement parameters is necessary, having knowledge about the tensile properties of fibers is crucial for a better understanding of the mechanical behavior of yarns and fabrics.
Tensile properties of cotton fibers are influenced by the internal structure of the fibers. Cotton fiber is 98% cellulose. Cellulose molecule is synthesized from sucrose, the major type of sugar which can be found in the sap of the cotton plant. Sucrose will be converted within the cell into one molecule of glucose and one molecule of fructose; then, fructose will be converted into glucose.
Afterward, two glucose molecules will react together to form cellobiose; it will be then polymerized to form cellulose. It is reported that the rigidity of the cellulosic chains, the highly fibrillar and crystalline structure of cellulose macromolecules, and the extensive intermolecular and intramolecular hydrogen bonding are among the factors that affect most cotton fibers, tensile properties. Also, cotton fiber strength has been shown to be associated with the molecular weight of the cellulose, the crystalline regions in the fibers, and the reversals and convolutions of the fibers.
Viscoelasticity of Cotton Fibers
Viscoelasticity is the elastic response that occurs immediately after applying the load, and the viscous response which occurs smoothly and continuously when time goes on. The applied load, the cross-sectional area of fibers, the modulus of materials, are all affecting parameters for an elastic response. On the other side, the viscous response is a measure of a time-dependent deformation.
In some other references, the term “creep recovery” was also used, which corresponds to the behavior of fiber after the load removal. It has been stated that, after the load removal, recovery will take place immediately and will continue over a period of time.
Cotton Fiber Bundle Strength Measurements
High Volume Instrument (HVI) is used in this study to measure the fiber bundle tenacity. HVI performs the fiber bundle tenacity test on the same specimen as the one used for the length measurement. In fact, after the length measurement test, the specimen is repositioned; it is clamped between the two jaws (the gauge length is 0.3175 centimeters); then, the specimen is submitted to the tensile test with the inconstant rate of elongation. With the assumption that the linear density is constant across length groups, HVI estimates the mass of the specimen using an optical sensor and micronaire. The tenacity measurement is expressed as grams force (gf)?per tex.
Maturity and Perimeter Measurements
Fiber cross-sections were performed according to the protocol reported before (Hequet et al., 2006). Briefly, a small sliver of cotton fibers is mounted into a plastic tube. Fiber samples were embedded with a methacrylate polymer to behold in position. Fibers are
cross-sectioned (one-micron thick cross-sections). Then microscopic slides are prepared after dissolving the methacrylate polymer from the sample. The images are viewed with a microscope and analyzed by the FIAS software. More than eight thousand fibers were
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tested for each sample.
Individual fiber tensile measurements
FAVIMAT, an individual fiber tensile tester, measures the tensile properties of textile fibers at a constant rate of elongation. One hundred and fifty cotton fibers were tested for each replication using a ten-millimeter gauge length. In total, three replications were done on each cotton sample. This gauge (10 mm) was used because this is the minimum gauge length in which FAVIMAT can measure the linear density using the vibroscope method.
Cotton Fiber Testing Definitions
Microscopic Appearance of Cotton Fiber
Different kinds of fibers can be identified by their microscopic appearance better, than their physical appearance. When cotton is viewed under a microscopic lens; In longitudinal view, it appears as a flat tube with spiral twists or a twisted ribbon. Under the cross-section view, it is bean-shaped.
Properties & Uses of Cotton Fiber
The fibers are sent to a textile mill where carding machines turn the fibers into cotton yarn. The yarns are woven into cloth that is comfortable and easy to wash but does wrinkle easily. Cotton fabric will shrink about 3% when washed unless pre-treated to resist shrinking.
Cotton is prized for its comfort, easy-care, and affordability and is ideal for clothing, bedding, towels, and furnishings.
Properties of Cotton by Physical Structure
Color
The color of cotton fiber is instrumental in fiber identification. The usual color of cotton fiber ranges from white to creamy white. The color of fiber depends upon the conditions under which cotton is produced e.g., time of picking, the soil of growth, exposure of the plant to sunlight, climatic conditions, impact of insects and fungi, etc. The cotton produced normally has a cream-white color. If fiber is not picked at the right time, its color may vary. If fiber is left for an extended period of time in the boll, it may turn bluish-white. There are five recognized groups of color: white, gray, spotted, tinged, and yellow stained. As the color of cotton deteriorates the processability of the fibers decreases.
Fiber Strength
Fiber strength is measured in grams per denier (gm/den). Cotton is a moderately strong fiber. It has a tenacity of 3.0 – 4.9 gm/den. The strength of the cotton fiber is directly affected with the moisture regain and higher length. Wet cotton fiber is 20% stronger than dry cotton fiber. Similarly, long cotton fibers are stronger than short fibers.
Elastic Property
The elasticity of cotton fiber is very low. Recovery from the deformation of cotton fiber from the applied load is very low as cotton fiber is a rigid fiber and inelastic. At 2% extension, it has an elastic recovery (ER) of 74%. At 5% extension, it has an elastic recovery (ER) of 45%. Elastic property can be achieved by; Chemical treatments for the purpose of improvement increase recovery but fibers become harsher due to chemical treatment. Blending or mixing of cotton with elastic fiber, e.g. polyester.
Length
Physically the individual cotton fibers consist of a single long tubular cell. Its length is about 1200-1500 times its breadth. The length of cotton fiber varies from 16mm to 52 mm or ? to 2? inches depending upon the type of cotton. The width varies between 12 to 20 microns,?e.g.Indian cotton- 16-25 mm American cotton- 20-30 mm Sea Island- 38-52 mm Egyptian cotton- 30-38 mm
Fineness
The fineness of the fiber depends upon the length of the fiber. As cotton fibers are longer in length, they have high fineness. Fineness is expressed in terms of decitex and it varies from 1.1 – 2.3 decitex in cotton fibers. Shorter cotton fibers have low fineness.
Length Uniformity
Length uniformity or uniformity ratio is determined as “a ratio between the mean length and the upper half mean length of the fibers and is expressed as a percentage”. A low uniformity index shows that there might be a high content of short fibers, which lowers the quality of the future textile product. Hence, fibers with high length uniformity produce good quality products.
The typical length uniformity of cotton fibers is shown as below;
Length UniformityUniformity Index [%]Very High>85High83-85Intermediate80-82Low77-79Very Low<77
Crimp
Cotton fiber is more or less twisted on its longitudinal axis which can’t be seen from outside. This is called fiber crimp. The twist in the fiber doesn’t tend to be continuous in one direction i.e. if the first director of the fiber is right, and then the direction of the fiber is left. This property of cotton fiber helps in spinning.
Specific gravity
The specific gravity of cotton fiber is 1.54.
Effect of Sun-light
When cotton is exposed to sunlight, there is a gradual but consistent loss of strength of cotton fibers and they turned yellowish due to sunlight. When heat is promoted and brought to cotton fibers by sunlight, degradation of cotton is done by oxidation. From sunlight, much of the damage is caused by ultraviolet light.
Effect of Heat
Cotton is very resistant to degradation by heat. It begins to turn yellow after being burnt at 120° C for several hours. Decomposition of cotton fiber occurs at 150° C due to the process of oxidation. Cotton is severely damaged after a few minutes after at 240° C. Cotton burns readily in the air.
Luster
Cotton fiber has a very low luster naturally just like low elasticity.
Effect of Moisture
The tensile strength of the cotton fiber is increased with the absorption of moisture. Under normal humidity conditions, cotton takes up about 6 – 8% moisture. Cotton fiber has a moisture regain of 8.5%. Wet cotton fiber is 20–25 % stronger than dry cotton fiber as hydrogen bonding is produced between molecules of water and cellulose present in cotton. Hydrogen bonding becomes the cause of strength in wet cotton fiber.
Effect of Age
A small loss of strength is shown by cotton when stored carefully. After 50 years of storage, cotton may differ only a little from new fibers.
Smell
Cotton fiber burns rapidly in the air. Cotton burns instantaneously when it comes in contact with flame. Cotton burns quickly and readily with the smell of burning paper.
Conductor
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FIBER
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Cotton is a very good conductor of heat and air. Cotton is a good conductor of electricity.
Properties of Cotton by Usage
Comfort
Cotton fiber has a large amorphous portion and this is why the air can be in and out through cotton fiber. So, the fabric made of cotton fiber is quite comfortable to use.
Soft Handle
Cotton fiber, if properly ginned, gives the best soft handle feeling among all other fibers. This property is instrumental in fiber identification.
Absorbent
Cotton fiber has high absorbency power and this is why this fiber can be died properly and without any problem or difficulty. It absorbs perspiration quickly which is its highly esteemed property. As the body perspires, cotton fibers absorb the moisture and release it on the surface of the fabric, so it evaporates.
Printing
The printing efficiency of cotton fiber is good. If the printing is applied on cotton fiber, it seems it doesn’t spread the color outside the design.
Good Color Retention
Cotton fibers have very good color retention. Fabrics made by it can retain their color in harsh conditions and in washing.
Machine Washable & Dry Cleanable
Cotton fiber has very good fatness and is easily washable. It is seen that some fibers can’t be dried or washed due to their sensitivity to water and weak fastness properties. You can easily wash the cotton-made fabric by machines and even you will be able to dry this fiber by using an electronic drier. Cotton fabric is very easy to launder.
Good Strength
Cotton fiber is a moderately strong fiber. Its strength along with its other properties makes it ideal for wear. Cotton fiber is also very durable.
Draping:
The drape-ability of cotton fiber is quite good. You can use the cotton fiber-made fabric in any kind of wear that needs more flexibility and drapes.
Sewing & Handling Is Easy:
The sewing efficiency on Cotton made fabric is easier and more comfortable than other fibers. Cotton is very easy in handling.
Breathability:
Fabric made from cotton fiber has very high air permeability which makes it highly breathable fabric. It has a distinctive feature that it adjusts easily with climatic requirements. That is why it is called all-Season fabric. In the summer season, the cotton fabric keeps the body cool and absorbs sweat easily. As the body perspires, cotton fibers absorb the moisture and release it on the surface of the fabric, so it evaporates.
Chemical Properties of Cotton
Effect of Acids
Cotton is damaged by dilute acids and cold concentrated acids which causes disintegration.
Effect of Alkalis
Cotton has excellent resistance to alkalis. It swells in caustic alkalis like NaOH but it doesn’t damage by alkali. It can be washed repeatedly in soap solution without any problem.
Effect of Organic Solvent:
Cotton has a high resistance to normal cleaning solvents. Cotton is dissolved by copper complexes such as cuprammonium hydroxide etc.
Effect of Insects
Cotton is not attacked or damaged by moths or beetles.
Effect of Micro-Organism:
Cotton is attacked by fungi and bacteria. Mildews feed on cotton fiber, rotting and weakening the material. Mildews and bacteria will flourish on cotton under hot and humid conditions.
Use of Cotton Fiber
PropertyEvaluationShapeFairly uniform in width,12–20 micrometers;
Length varies from 1 cm to 6 cm (? to 2? inches);
The typical length is 2.2 cm to 3.3 cm (? to1? inches).
ElasticityRelatively LowSpecific Gravity1.54Tenacity (strength)Dry Wet3.0–5.0 g/d3.3–6.0 g/dResiliencyLowDensity1.54–1.56 g/cm3Moisture AbsorptionRaw Conditioned8.5%Saturated15–25%Mercerized8.5%Conditioned10.3%Saturated15–27%+Dimensional stabilityGoodResistant ToAcidsDamage, weaken fibersAlkaliResistant; no harmful effectsOrganic SolventsHigh resistance to mostSunlightProlonged exposure weakens fibersMicroorganismsMildew & rot-producing bacteria damage fibersInsectsSilverfish damage fibers.Thermal ReactionsTo HeatDecomposes after prolonged exposure to temperatures of 150?C or over.To FlameBurns readily.
Process of making Cotton fabric?