CLINICAL INSIGHTS – Silybum marianum vs retinol and bakuchiol | INGREDIENT FOCUS – Peptiskin by Solabia | Vol.2, Iss.5
Clinical Insights - Efficacy comparison of Silybum marianum extract to retinol and bakuchiol in vitro and in vivo
Original Research: Boira C, Chapuis E, Lapierre L, Tiguemounine J, Scandolera A, Reynaud R. Silybum marianum Extract: A Highly Effective Natural Alternative to Retinoids to Prevent Skin Aging Without Side Effects. J Cosmet Dermatol. 2025 Jan;24(1):e16613. doi: 10.1111/jocd.16613. Epub 2024 Dec 18. PMID: 39692756
The study explores the efficacy and safety of Silybum marianum extract (SME) as a natural anti-aging alternative to retinoids. SME was benchmarked against retinol and bakuchiol using in vitro, ex vivo, and clinical trials.
SME’s impact on reactive oxygen species (ROS) and collagen profiles was assessed in keratinocyte cultures and human skin explants, respectively. Significant dose dependent reduction in ROS was seen with both retinol and SME. SME significantly increased collagen III by 23% compared to bakuchiol and by 16% versus retinol. It boosted hyaluronic acid levels by 36% compared to bakuchiol in ex vivo tests.
Fifty-seven volunteers aged 45-73 applied formulations containing SME (0.8%), retinol (0.1%), or bakuchiol (0.2%) twice daily for 56 days. Measurements included wrinkle reduction, skin hydration, and redness. Self-assessments evaluated tolerability and user satisfaction. SME reduced forehead wrinkles’ number by 21% and circumference by 17%, outperforming bakuchiol and matching retinol’s efficacy. It also improved skin hydration (+5.3%) more effectively than retinol (+2%) or bakuchiol (+1.1%). SME showed no RAR? receptor activation, unlike retinol and bakuchiol. None of the SME users reported irritation, while 43% of retinol users did. Skin redness decreased by 14.7% with SME but increased with retinol.
Silybum marianum extract can be a natural anti-ageing solution compared to retinoids with higher tolerability and superiority to both retinol and bakuchiol.
The authors have cited some study limitations. The sample size (n=57) was modest and limited to a single center, restricting generalizability. In RAR? binding assay, precise EC50 values for SME and retinol could not be predicted due to the complex nature of the test samples.
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Ingredient focus - Peptiskin? by Solabia
INCI: Arginine/Lysine Polypeptide
A combination of oligopeptides of L-lysine and L-arginine synthesized by a solvent free method, Peptiskin? promotes synthesis of Collagen I, III, V and Decorin allowing dermal regeneration. It was also shown to inhibit release of basal matrix metalloproteinase (MMP)-1 and MMP release during UV exposure with dexamethasone as control. Peptiskin? also inhibited binding of glucose to collagen in vitro thereby reducing the formation of advanced glycated collagen suggesting a novel anti-ageing mechanism. ?
Product categories: Skin care, Derma care
Recommended dose: 1-3%
Certifications: Vegan
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