THE CIRCULAR TRANSITION IN THE COSMETICS INDUSTRY : An interview with Arnaud Lancelot
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Arnaud Lancelot began his career in strategic consulting before co-founding Cozie, an innovative and committed cosmetics brand. Through Cozie, Arnaud and his co-founders aim to align their personal and professional values by offering zero-waste products and promoting the circular economy. Arnaud is now the director of our Reinvention team at We Don’t Need Roads. (NB: he took the role after our the interview)
Cozie stands out for its strong ecological commitment. The brand offers cosmetic care products without disposable packaging, focusing on deposit and bulk sales. Over the past seven years, Cozie has deployed bulk machines in more than five hundred retail outlets across France, positioning itself as a pioneer in circular cosmetics.
The idea of Cozie was born from the realization that the cosmetic industry needed a radical shift towards sustainability. From the outset, the brand's mission has been to eliminate waste and reduce environmental impact. This vision has guided their product development and business strategy, setting a high standard for sustainability in the industry.
The cosmetics industry, like many others, faces major challenges in terms of sustainability. The issues are multiple: reducing the consumption of raw materials and water, reducing plastic packaging, recycling, and reusing. Arnaud emphasizes the importance of not settling for superficial solutions but adopting a comprehensive and systemic approach.
He explains that the cosmetics industry is particularly resource-intensive, with significant environmental footprints from ingredient sourcing, production processes, and packaging waste. Addressing these issues requires a holistic approach that considers the entire lifecycle of the product.
Circularity in the cosmetics industry involves rethinking production and consumption processes. Arnaud explains that circularity is not limited to reuse but also includes ingredients, packaging, and production methods. Each aspect must be considered to significantly reduce the ecological footprint.
He elaborates on how circularity can transform the industry. For instance, by designing products with end-of-life in mind, companies can create systems where packaging and materials are continuously reused, thus minimizing waste. This approach not only benefits the environment but can also lead to cost savings and increased efficiency in the long term.
Arnaud explains that Cozie’s strategic decision to focus on reuse rather than recycling stems from a thorough understanding of the environmental challenges facing the industry. Cozie believes that recycling, although important, often falls short due to its inefficiencies and the degradation of recycled materials. Recycling processes can be energy-intensive and do not always result in materials of the same quality, thereby failing to offer a long-term solution to waste reduction.
In contrast, reuse keeps materials in circulation for significantly longer periods, reducing the need for new resources and minimizing waste. This method aligns more closely with Cozie’s sustainability values. However, implementing a reuse system comes with substantial challenges, particularly in ensuring hygiene, maintaining traceability, and achieving economic viability. To address these issues, Cozie has pioneered innovative solutions such as creating their own deposit system, where customers return used packaging for cleaning and refilling, and installing bulk machines that allow consumers to refill their containers.
The decision to prioritize reuse was further informed by extensive consumer research. While some consumers have adapted to solid product formats like bar soaps, a considerable segment of the market prefers traditional liquid formats. By offering familiar products in reusable, sustainable packaging, Cozie can cater to these preferences while still advancing their environmental goals. This approach not only helps maintain product quality but also significantly reduces waste, positioning Cozie as a leader in sustainable practices within the industry.
The transition to a circular economy requires close collaboration among industry players. Arnaud highlights the importance of sharing knowledge and resources to create efficient and competitive supply chains. He insists on the need for coalitions to overcome logistical and economic challenges.
Arnaud emphasizes that collaboration does not mean sacrificing competitiveness. On the contrary, by working together, companies can achieve greater efficiencies and drive innovation. For instance, developing shared infrastructure for packaging reuse can reduce costs and create new business opportunities for all participants.
Arnaud is optimistic about the evolution of the cosmetics industry towards more sustainable practices. He points out that initiatives like Cozie's can serve as models for other companies. The growing importance of environmental issues in the media and public policy also helps accelerate this transition.
He notes that consumer awareness and demand for sustainable products are driving change across the industry. Companies that can demonstrate genuine commitment to sustainability are gaining a competitive edge and building stronger relationships with their customers.
Despite the progress made, Arnaud acknowledges that many challenges remain. Regulation, while more favorable than a few years ago, still needs to evolve to fully support the circular economy. Additionally, consumers need to be more educated and willing to adopt more responsible consumption habits.
Arnaud discusses the need for regulatory frameworks that encourage innovation and support sustainable business practices. He highlights the importance of policies that incentivize reuse and recycling, as well as measures that hold companies accountable for their environmental impact.
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Arnaud details the numerous challenges they faced in implementing reuse and bulk sales. Hygiene and traceability are critical, and finding solutions that ensure both while being economically viable requires significant investment and innovation. Cozie had to create its own solutions, as existing systems were inadequate.
He shares how Cozie developed specialized bulk dispensers and a robust deposit system for packaging. These innovations required collaboration with engineers and extensive testing to ensure they met strict hygiene standards. Despite these challenges, the effort has paid off by setting a new standard for the industry.
Arnaud emphasizes that circularity is not just about reuse. The cosmetics industry can also explore sustainable sourcing of ingredients, reducing water and energy consumption, and developing more efficient production processes. Each company must identify its priorities based on its unique circumstances and goals.
He suggests that companies should not put all their eggs in one basket. Instead, they should explore multiple avenues for improving sustainability. This approach allows for flexibility and resilience in the face of evolving market conditions and regulatory landscapes.
Innovation is crucial for advancing circularity in the cosmetics industry. Arnaud highlights the importance of continuous improvement and experimentation. Companies must be willing to invest in research and development to discover new ways to reduce their environmental impact.
He encourages companies to view sustainability challenges as opportunities for innovation. By pushing the boundaries of what is possible, companies can create new products, services, and business models that are both sustainable and profitable.
Arnaud shares insights from Cozie’s journey towards economic viability. While initial plans are essential, flexibility and agility are crucial. Companies must be prepared to adjust their strategies based on real-world feedback and changing conditions.
He discusses the importance of having a clear vision and being committed to sustainability, even when facing setbacks. By staying focused on their goals and being willing to adapt, companies can overcome obstacles and achieve long-term success.
Arnaud highlights several positive indicators that suggest a bright future for circularity in cosmetics. Increased consumer demand for sustainable products, supportive media coverage, and evolving regulations all point towards a growing momentum for change.
He believes that by working together, industry players can achieve significant progress. Shared initiatives and collaborations can drive down costs and make sustainable practices more accessible and viable for all companies.
Conclusion
Ths interview with Arnaud provides valuable insights into the efforts and innovations needed to transform the cosmetics industry, specifically through the power of circular economy. The ecological transition is imperative to ensure the economic and environmental viability of businesses. Cozie, with its pioneering approach and strong commitment, shows the way forward for sustainable and responsible cosmetics.
At @We Don’t Need Roads, we can help your company reinvent its business model thanks to our Reinvention team. With a clear ambition of creating new products, services or experiences that are feasible, viable, sustainable and desirable, we make you benefit from our innovative power to accelerate your sustainable transformation.?
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With a strong and holistic expertise on circularity and low-carbon offers, a proven expertise in creating and driving coalitions to solve challenges at scale, and an methodology inspired by design and operational excellence, we can be the right partner for you.?