Cigar Basics
Keith Patel
Global Beverage Operations @ Multi unit Operations and hospitality consulting, Revenue Generation, Cost Control, Guest & Employee satisfaction and Technical Coaching Excellence.
Cigar Basics
A cigar is a rolled bundle of dried and fermented tobacco leaves made to be smoked. They are produced in a wide variety of sizes and shapes. It consists of cut tobacco filler in a binder leaf with a wrapper leaf rolled spirally around the bunch. Wrapper leaf, the most expensive leaf used in cigars, must be strong, elastic, silky in texture, and even in color; it must have a pleasant flavor and good burning properties.
Historical fact - Christopher Columbus and the explorers who followed him in Cuba, Mexico, Central America, and Brazil found that the Indians of those regions smoked a long thick bundle of twisted tobacco leaves wrapped in a dried palm leaf or corn (maize) husk. A pottery vessel discovered at Uaxactún, Guatemala, dating from the 10th century CE or earlier, shows the figure of a Maya smoking a string-tied roll of tobacco leaves. The Spanish word cigarro, from which cigar is derived, probably was an adaptation of sik’ar, the Mayan term for smoking. By 1600 the cigar had been introduced into Spain, where it was a symbol of conspicuous wealth for two centuries before it was widely used in other European countries. The use of cigars in New England probably followed closely the settlement of Connecticut in 1633.
Modern cigars are described by their size and shape as follows: corona is a straight-shaped cigar with rounded top (the end placed in the mouth), about 5.5 inches (14 cm) long; petit corona, or corona chica, is about 5 inches long; tres petit corona is about 4.5 inches long; half a corona is about 3.75 inches long; Lonsdale is the same shape as a corona, about 6.5 inches long; ideales is a slender torpedo-shaped cigar, tapered at the lighting end, about 6.5 inches long; bouquet is a smaller torpedo-shaped cigar; Londres is a straight cigar about 4.75 inches long. These descriptive terms appear after the brand name. A panatela is a thin cigar open at both ends, usually about 5 inches long with a straight shape but sometimes having a shoulder, or drawn-in portion, at the mouth end; originally it had a finished top that had to be cut off before smoking. A cheroot is a thin cigar, open at both ends, usually thicker and stubbier than a panatela, and sometimes slightly tapered. The name whiff, used in Britain, refers to a small cigar, open at both ends and about 3.5 inches long.
The main color classifications of cigars are claro (CCC), light; colorado-claro (CC), medium; colorado (C), dark; colorado-maduro (CM), very dark; and maduro (M), exceptionally dark. The last two are seldom seen in the United Kingdom or the United States. The color of the wrapper is no indication of the strength of a cigar, but considerable care is given to the matching of colors. Good-quality cigars may be sorted into as many as 20 different shades to ensure that all cigars in a box have a uniform appearance.
Cigars should be kept in a fairly dry and warm, not hot, atmosphere at constant conditions. The temperature should be 64–67 °F (18–19 °C), with a relative humidity of about 53–57 percent.
In modern packaging, a band is placed on the cigar or printed on the protective covering, usually cellophane. The covering, applied by machine, preserves the natural humidostatic condition of the cigar. Selectors and packers, working under suitable lighting, arrange the cigars according to color and perfection of wrapper and place them in boxes made of wood, metal, paper, or glass.
Handmade Cigars vs. Machine-Made vs. Hybrid Cigars
Smokers with no limits on what they have to spend on their enjoyment of smoking cigars can afford the benefits of a premium hand-rolled cigar. Premium hand-rolled cigars use only the best tobacco throughout the production process. Expert cigar rollers use the finest tobacco to make a part of the cigar called the filler. Fine tobacco’s also used to make a special type of wrap, which is called the binder. The binder holds the filler in place. The hand-rolled cigar binder is also instrumental in the best type of draw, resulting in the best taste. Next comes the tobacco used to make the final and exquisite hand-rolled wrapper.
Cigar smokers with limits on what they can afford, or those who prefer to smoke several cigars each day, usually choose machine-made cigars. These types of cigars dominate the cigar market outside of dedicated tobacconist shops. Machine-made cigars are the least expensive, but for a reason. Full machine-made cigars aren’t made of the best tobacco. Often, a full machine-made cigar doesn’t use only tobacco in the production process. Too often, tobacco scraps from the production floor combine with materials other than tobacco are what’s used to make the filler. These other materials can be paper, or even other plant leaves could contain some unknown chemicals or even preservatives.
Then there’s the cigar that’s a hybrid, a combination of the machine and hand rolling production techniques. For a connoisseur of cigars, smoking such a cigar might be unheard of. For some cigar smokers, appreciative of the much lower price for full machine-made cigars, even the combination cigar is too expensive.
Shapes & Sizes
A cigar shape can vary greatly in size from brand to brand, so describing a cigar by its size as well as shape is important. Cigars are measured by two factors: length, which is given in inches, and "ring gauge," a designation of a cigar's diameter broken into 64ths of an inch. A cigar with a 42 ring gauge, for example, is 42/64 of an inch in diameter.
In order to even understand anything basic about Cigars you first have to understand, appreciate and always remember the Tobacco plant and process that makes up the entire cigar, this will answer the trillion dollar question…Why smoke cigars???
Tobacco, common name of the plant Nicotiana tabacum and, to a limited extent, Aztec tobacco (N. rustica).Though tobacco is tropical in origin, it is grown throughout the world. Cultivated tobacco (N. tabacum) requires a frost-free period of 100 to 130 days from date of transplanting to maturity in the field. Aztec tobacco (N. rustica), which is grown to some extent in India, Vietnam, and certain Transcaucasian countries, matures more quickly and is more potent than cultivated tobacco.
The prime requisite for successful tobacco culture is a supply of well-developed healthy seedlings that is available at the proper time for transplanting. Soil for a plant bed should be fertile and of good tilth and drainage; it must be protected from chilling winds and exposed to the sun. The soil is usually partially sterilized by burning or using chemicals such as methyl bromide (now illegal in many countries) to control plant diseases, weeds, insect pests, and nematodes. The soil must be finely pulverized and level so that the seed can be lightly covered with soil by rolling or trampling. Uniform distribution of seeds is important. In warm regions of the world, the germinating seedlings are produced outdoors in cold frames covered with thin cotton cloth or thin mulch, such as chopped grass (used in particular in Zimbabwe), straw, or pine needles. Glass or plastic is used in colder regions, and close attention is given to watering and ventilation. After 8 to 10 weeks the seedlings are 10 to 18 cm (4 to 7 inches) in length and are ready for transplanting in the field. Transplanting machines are used extensively in some areas, but much of the world’s tobacco is planted by hand.
Spacing of plants in the field varies widely according to the type of tobacco. Orinoco strains, used for flue curing, are grown in rows 1.2 meters (4 feet) apart, with plants 50 to 60 cm (20 to 24 inches) apart in the row. Varieties in the Pryor group are grown to produce the dark air-cured and fire-cured types and are often planted in hills 1 meter (3.5 feet) apart. Burley and Maryland strains, used for the production of light air-cured tobaccos, may be planted 81 to 91 cm (32 to 36 inches) apart or closer. Broadleaf and seed-leaf strains, including the Havana seed, Cuban, and Sumatra varieties, are used for the production of cigars; they are grown in rows spaced 1 meter (3 feet) apart, with individual plants placed at a distance of 38 to 68 cm (15 to 27 inches) from each other. The variety grown for production of Perique is spaced the widest, with rows 1.5 meters (5 feet) apart and 91 to 107 cm (36 to 42 inches) between plants. Aromatic tobaccos, also used for cigars, are spaced in rows 38 to 60 cm (15 to 24 inches) apart with 8 to 20 cm (3 to 8 inches) between plants in the row.
Soil requirements vary widely with the type of tobacco grown, though well-drained soil with good aeration is generally desirable. Flue-cured, Maryland, cigar-binder, and wrapper types of tobacco are produced on sandy and sandy loam soil. Burley, dark air-cured, fire-cured, and cigar-filler types are grown on silt loam and clay loam soils, with clay subsoil’s. The need for fertilizer is determined by the type of tobacco, soil, and climate; nitrogen, phosphorus, and potassium are commonly applied as necessary to prevent symptoms of nutritional deficiency.
Large-leaf tobaccos are often topped—that is, the terminal growth is removed—when the plant has reached the desired size, usually at or shortly after flowering. The number of leaves remaining varies widely. Dark air-cured and fire-cured tobaccos may have 10 to 16 leaves, while Burley, flue-cured, Maryland, and cigar types may have 16 to 20 leaves. After topping, the suckers, or lateral shoots, are removed to increase leaf development, providing increased yields. The work may be done by hand, in which case it must be repeated regularly, or by application of sucker-suppressing chemicals. Aromatic tobacco culture differs from that of most of the large-leafed tobaccos in that the plants are rarely topped and preferably are grown on soils of low productivity. Tobacco is harvested 70 to 130 days after transplanting by one of two methods: (1) the entire plant is cut and the stalk split or speared and hung on a tobacco stick or lath, or (2) the leaves are removed at intervals as they mature. The leaves of cigar-wrapper and aromatic tobaccos are strung using a needle, and leaves to be flue-cured are looped, using a string tied to a lath or stick that is hung in a curing barn. To prevent breakage and bruising during the handling necessary in curing, it is desirable for the leaf to wilt without sun burning. Tobacco may be left in the field from a few hours to two days to wilt.
The three most common methods of curing are by air, fire, and flue. A fourth method, sun curing, is practiced with aromatic types and to a limited extent with air-cured types. Curing entails four essential steps: wilting, yellowing, coloring, and drying. These involve physical and chemical changes in the leaf and are regulated to develop the desired properties. Air curing is accomplished mainly by mechanical ventilation inside buildings. Coke, charcoal, or petroleum gas may be burned to provide heat when conditions warrant. Air curing, which requires from one to two months’ time, is used for many tobaccos, including dark air-cured types, cigar, Maryland, and Burley.
The fire-curing process resembles air curing except that open wood fires are kindled on the floor of the curing barn after the tobacco has been hanging for two to six days. The smoke imparts to the tobacco a characteristic aroma of creosote. The firing process may be continuous or intermittent, extending from three weeks to as long as 10 weeks until curing is complete and the leaf has been cured to the desired finish.
The barns for flue curing are usually small and tightly constructed with ventilators and metal pipes, or flues, extending from furnaces around or under the floor of the barn. Fuels used are wood, coal, oil, and liquid petroleum gas. If oil or gas heaters are used, flues are not needed. Heat is applied carefully, and the leaves are observed closely for changes in their chemical and physical composition. Flue curing requires from four to eight days’ time and is used for Virginia, or bright, tobacco. In the process called bulk curing, the leaves are loaded evenly in racks arranged in a curing chamber.
After curing, the leaf may be piled in bulk to condition for a time before it is prepared for sale. The preparation consists usually of grading the leaf and putting it in a bale or package of convenient size and weight for inspection and removal by the buyer. Except during humid periods, the leaf must be conditioned in moistening cellars or humidified rooms before it can be handled without breakage. Type of leaf and local custom determine the fineness of grading. At its most elaborate, grading may be by position of the leaf on the plant, color, size, maturity, soundness, and other recognizable qualities; flue-cured tobacco in the United States is graded that way, and each grade is bulked or baled separately. Much simpler grading is usual in developing countries, where the buyer is as much concerned with the proportions of each grade as with the quality of the entire lot; aromatic tobaccos are an example of this. Most tobaccos entering world trade, except the aromatic, are assembled before sale into bundles, or hands, of 15 to 30 leaves and tied with one leaf wrapped securely around the butts.
Most tobaccos, except aromatic and cigar, are re graded if necessary and usually redried after purchase; then the exact amount of moisture needed for aging is added and the tobacco is securely packed in cases or hogsheads. Exported tobacco is shipped in this form. The trend is for the packing factories to stem the leaf—that is, remove most of the stem leaving the lamina (leaf blade)—usually by threshing machines but sometimes by hand, before redrying it. The aging process, particularly with cigar tobaccos, is sometimes hastened by forced fermentation procedures. After purchase, aromatic tobaccos are manipulated; that is, they are factory-graded, baled, and subjected to an elaborate in-the-bale fermentation process before going to the ultimate manufacturer.
Top 10 Countries That Grow the best Cigar Tobacco
Cuba– Cuba is probably the most famous cigar producing country in the world. Its tobacco is renowned for its flavor and high quality. Although it has been banned in the United States for more than half a century, it still has the reputation for making the best cigars in the world. Some famous brands crafted here include the original versions of Montecristo, Partagas, H. Upmann, and Cohiba
Dominican Republic- Although Cuba has the reputation has the original premium cigar maker, it was the Dominican Republic that first cultivated tobacco for cigars. It is known for its light and smooth flavor, but recently different strands have been grown that have been incredibly powerful. The Dominican has produced some amazing brands such as Arturo Fuente, the Dominican Montecristo, and La Flor Dominican.
Nicaragua- After the Cuban revolution, many of the finest cigar rollers left Cuba and many of them settled in the lush, humid nation of Nicaragua. Its tobacco is known for its power and great spicy flavor profile. If you look at some of the great Nicaraguan cigars, you will see that they had their roots in Cuba. These brands include Padron, My Father, and Perdomo.
Honduras- Honduras is home to some very rich and powerful tobacco. Cigars here are known to be strong and dark, with a great earthy flavor to them. The famed Cuban seed Corojo tobacco was first grown here after leaving the island of Cuba. Camacho has laid its claim as one of the finest Honduran cigars, with newer companies Room 101 and CLE quickly rising up the charts.
Ecuador- Ecuador is relatively new to the cigar scene, and by new I mean about 10-15 years. That doesn’t seem new to us, but with the Cuban Partagas recently celebrating its 170th birthday, Ecuador is still a baby. Yet, in that time, it has produced some great cigars. Its humidity and usual cloud cover is perfect for making delicious and spicy cigar wrapper. The Ecuadorian Habano wrapper has been used on Tatuaje, Montecristo, My Father and Rocky Patel.
Mexico- Mexican tobacco has been used in premium cigars for years. If anyone remembers the old fashioned Te-Amo, well there you go. However, recently, Mexico has been producing some great dark Maduro wrappers. Known as the Mexican San Andres, it is right up there with Connecticut broadleaf in terms of high quality maduro. It has been used on such cigars as the San Lotano Maduro, the Crowned Heads Jericho Hill, the Drew Estate Norteno, and even our own private label, the Black Abyss.
Brazil- When describing Brazilian tobacco, only one word comes to mind: power. It is an insanely strong and dark tobacco and has a rich dark flavor profile. It has been made famous by its use on the CAO Brazlia, but recently has found its way into other great smokes such as the Liga Privada No. 9 and the brand new Davidoff Escurio.
USA-United States is famous for the mild and creamy Connecticut wrapper. This is the wrapper used on every mild cigar, with a variation grown in Ecuador gaining popularity. However, The U.S. has recently been producing some richer and more flavorful cigar tobaccos. First you have the Kentucky Fire Cured by Drew Estate, which uses homegrown Fire Cured tobaccos, giving it a very smoky flavor. More current was the release of the Camacho American Barrel Aged, which uses American broadleaf tobacco, and a dash of Pennsylvanian long filler.
Jamaica- After the Cuban embargo, the market became filled with various countries trying to fill the void. A major player at that time was the island of Jamaica. Jamaica was the original producer of the Macanudo line and made the first Partagas cigars outside of Cuba. It was known for its very mild and sweet tobacco. The Royal Jamaican became one of its signature products. However, after the devastating Hurricane Gilbert in 1988, the nation’s tobacco industry was nearly destroyed. It has taken them a long time to recover, but recently, we are starting to see more and more brands using Jamaican tobacco. Macanudo just came out with a limited release that was crafted with Jamaican long filler, and it was outstanding.
Cameroon- Even the African Continent has put its mark on the cigar world. If you have ever smoked a Fuente, a Rocky Patel, or a Partagas, chances are you have tried the tobacco grown in the small nation of Cameroon. The Cameroon wrapper has become world famous not only for its toothy appearance and great flavor, but also the difficulty in actually getting it. The Meerapfel family are usually the go to in order to acquire Cameroon wrapper. The nation is quite dangerous and the journey to the fields is fraught with peril.
How to Prepare Your Cigar for Smoking
Essentially, a cigar will need a little preparation before it can be fully enjoyed. Taking the time and care in preparing your high-quality cigar is all part of the experience, and those that rush into smoking a cigar will often find the experience is not as satisfactory as imagined.
Therefore, to make the activity a little less confusing for all the beginners out there and make sure you are prepping your fine-quality cigars effectively read on…
How Do You Store Cigars?
Once you’ve picked your cigars online and had them delivered to your door, the next step is to store them properly for a special occasion. The ideal condition for cigars is approximately 70% humidity at around 20oC.
Warm air can hold a lot of moisture which can result in very spongy cigars, while cold air holds little moisture which can dry out the tobacco. To avoid disappointment, invest in a humidor to control the conditions your cigars are stored in.
Make Sure Humidity is Accurate
As a general rule of thumb, if you want the cigars to be stored at a temperature higher or lower than 20oC, you will need to adjust the humidity accordingly to the rule of – increase by one degree, increase by 1%.
If you are unable to use a humidor, you can put the cigars into a plastic food bag or container, placing a damp sponge or paper towel with the cigars. This bag can be placed on a shelf or within an environment that will hold the humidity.
How Do I Know if a Cigar Can Be Smoked?
A good cigar, will feel firm between the fingers on a gentle roll, with no lumps or soft spots. If your cigar does not feel like this, reject it and opt for a different selection.
If all the cigars in your collection feel like this, chances are they have not been stored properly in the first place, in which case, you will need to check the storage area for any issues.
Some like to remove the cigar label, while others will keep it on during the entirety of the smoke. Whether you keep the label on or not is entirely up to you; however, most will keep the label on until the heat has loosened the adhesive because this will make it less likely to damage the cigar’s wrap.
How Do I Cut a Cigar?
The next step in preparing your cigar is to cut it. Unlike a cigarette, cigars need the ends clipping before enjoying.
So, why should you cut the end of the cigar?
Removing the end of the cigar allows there to be a smooth opening for the smoke without ruining the structure of the cigar. The recommended cut is about one-sixteenth of an inch, around 2mm, from the end; this is usually where the curved end of the cigar meets the straight side.
Alternatively, you can opt for making a V-shaped wedge cut that will expose more surface area and allow it for easy draw of smoke through the cigar. However, this can sometimes result in the cigar smoking too hot which can make it burn faster.
Cigar Cutting Method
The best method for cutting the tip of your cigar is to use a cigar cutter, like the options we have in our online store. recommend avoiding biting the end of the cigar off, like Wolverine, because it is not a pleasant experience and not beneficial for the cigar.
For the best result, use a strong and quick motion to cut the end of the cigar off; this will prevent tears and ultimately provide a better smoke.
Best Cigar Cutters
When selecting a cutter, a double-bladed cigar cutter is the best option for those new to cigar smoking. The double-bladed cutter will ensure that there is a cut from both sides simultaneously, with less chance of the wrapper being torn. To cut, rest the cigar on the blade before pushing the cutter shut in one smooth and quick process.
How Do You Light a Cigar?
There are a number of ways you can light your cigar; however, the best method is arguably the torch lighter, recommend purchasing one for your cigars.
Things to Avoid
While wooden matches also work, they can be difficult to keep lit for a long period of time which makes it a bad choice for beginners. Normal lighters can also be used, although they should be avoided because the lighter fluid can affect the flavor of the tobacco.
Method for Lighting
To prepare for your first smoke, hold the cigar in your hands and place the tip just above the flame. If you stick the cigar directly into the flame, it can dramatically affect the flavor. Allow the cigar to burn slightly to prime the tobacco before taking your first puffs. Recommend twirling the cigar in the light to make sure the cigar achieves an even burn. The end of the cigar will have a light orange glow from the embers; this is when you will know that the cigar is ready to smoke.