China’s Cosmetics Embrace Synthetic Biology: Bioengineered Ingredients on the Rise

At the opening meeting of the 14th National People's Congress (NPC), Chinese Premier Li Qiang emphasized China's commitment to accelerating the development of new productive forces and promoting the growth of the bioeconomy. In response, local governments have implemented policies to encourage regional advancements in synthetic biology, positioning the industry for continued expansion and innovation.

Owing to strong government backing and growing market interest, China's synthetic biology industry has grown significantly in recent years. By the end of August 2024, the sector?had completed 44 financing rounds?in China, raising over 2 billion RMB, reflecting the industry's accelerating momentum.

Synthetic Biology: Paving the Way for Green Innovation in the Cosmetic Industry

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Synthetic biology distinguishes itself from traditional cosmetic ingredients by charting a unique path characterized by precision manufacturing and innovative ingredient development. It offers the potential to create new ingredients, enable cost-effective large-scale production, and incorporate environmentally friendly processes. In recent years, this approach has led to the introduction of groundbreaking synthetic biology-based?cosmetic?ingredients in China. The Chinese government has also expressed strong support for cosmetic manufacturers and companies to adopt these technologies.

In 2023, China’s National Medical Products Administration (NMPA) issued a notice encouraging the development of New Cosmetic Ingredients (NCIs) by leveraging traditional advantages and unique plant resources, while promoting innovation through modern scientific methods. Enhancements to existing ingredients can be achieved by optimizing preparation techniques, refining production processes, and modifying ingredient compositions to improve safety, stability, and quality control.

Leading Synthetic Biology Companies in China's Cosmetic?Ingredients?Sector

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In China’s?cosmetic ingredient field, several well-known synthetic biology companies have made significant achievements in technological innovation and product development. Here are some major synthetic biology companies:

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1. Bloomage ?(“华熙生物” in CN)

Founded in 2000, Bloomage is a globally recognized biotechnology and biomaterials company. Driven by synthetic biology technology, the company primarily focuses on in-depth research and development of six key categories: functional sugars, proteins, peptides, amino acids, nucleotides, and natural bioactive compounds, continuously innovating new biomaterials.

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2. SHANXI JINBO BIO-PHARMACEUTICAL CO., LTD. (“锦波生物” in CN)

Founded?in 2008, Jinbo Biotech is a biomaterials company focused on the fundamental research and industrialization of functional proteins. Headquartered in Taiyuan, Shanxi Province, the company operates in various fields, including medical devices and functional skincare products. Jinbo Biotech is dedicated to providing solutions in healthcare, beauty, and skincare, with a core focus on recombinant collagen products and anti-HPV bio-protein products.

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3. CN BIO?(“川宁生物”?in CN)

?Founded in 2010, Chuaning Biotechnology is a leading enterprise in the field of antibiotic intermediates, specializing in the research and industrialization of biological fermentation technology. The company is known for its comprehensive product range and advanced production processes. According to CN BIO’s financial report for the first half of 2024, synthetic biology has been identified as a key direction for the company's future development. Through independent research and development, Chuaning has built a complete synthetic biology technology platform that encompasses all aspects, from strain design to industrial production.

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4. AHB (“华恒生物”?in CN)

?AHB?is a high-tech enterprise focused on synthetic biology, dedicated to green technological innovation and value creation. The company's primary products include amino acids, vitamins, and bio-based material monomers. It partners with global stakeholders in various fields, such as intermediates, animal nutrition, personal care, plant nutrition, and functional foods and nutrition, to provide innovative and sustainable products and solutions.

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5. Giant Biogene?(“巨子生物”?in CN)

?Founded in 2000, Giant Biotechnology is a high-tech company rooted in the principles of technological aesthetics, specializing in the professional skincare products sector featuring bioactive ingredients. The company employs proprietary synthetic biology technologies to design, develop, and produce a range of bioactive components, including recombinant collagen and rare ginsenoside. Notably, its recombinant collagen technology received the first patent authorization in the industry in China.

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6. PAM2L(“柏垠生物”?in CN)

?Founded in 2021, PAM2L is committed to developing new functional, low-cost, green, and sustainable innovative biomaterials through a dual-core technology platform driven by high-throughput synthetic biology and artificial intelligence. The company has established a complete closed commercial loop of “design-synthesis-application-product” for innovative biomaterials.

Applying for Synthetic Biology-derived?NCI?in China

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According to public information on the National Medical Products Administration (NMPA) website, around 24 synthetic biology-based NCIs have completed notification. Among the notified bioengineered NCI, β-Nicotinamide Mononucleotide (NMN) leads with 12 notifications?(including 1 denotified), making it the most popular?NCI?at present.

ZMUni Compliance Centre?has compiled the following two key points regarding the application for Bioengineered NCI in China, helping global businesses smoothly incorporate these new ingredients into their products.

1. Key Situations for NCI?Applications Involving Synthesis Biology

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Bioengineered?NCI typically falls under two?main application situations in China:

Situation 2:?New ingredients used for the first time in China or internationally, which do not have preservatives, sunscreen, coloring, hair dyeing, freckle removal, whitening, hair loss prevention, acne treatment, anti-wrinkle (except physical anti-wrinkle), dandruff removal, or deodorant functions.

Situation 5: NCI?with a history of safe consumption, where the parts of the ingredient used match the parts consumed as food.?

For application details for this situation please check out our previous article.

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2. Toxicological Tests Required for NCI Applications

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In comparison between?Situation?2?and Situation 5, the main difference lies in the toxicological testing requirements.

NCI notified under Situation 2?are required to conduct acute oral or acute dermal toxicity tests, skin and eye irritation/corrosion tests, skin sensitization tests, mutagenicity tests, and subchronic oral or dermal toxicity tests, among others.

However, under Situation 5,?systemic toxicity testing can be exempted.?Only skin and eye irritation/corrosion tests and skin sensitization tests are needed, significantly reducing costs and shortening the registration timeline for the applicant.

Navigating the Complexities of China's Cosmetic Compliance

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Currently, an increasing number of Chinese cosmetics and ingredients companies are ramping up their investments in synthetic biology research and development to enhance their technological capabilities and competitiveness. Looking ahead, the outlook for both domestic and international synthetic biology firms in the cosmetics sector remains positive, with expectations that more companies will target?the NCI market?in China.

Since the new regulation was implemented in 2021, ZMUni Compliance Centre has assisted in the notification of dozens of NCIs. For further inquiries or assistance with synthetic biology-derived NCI or other NCI applications, please contact us at [email protected]. For more Industry Insights, welcome to follow 中贸合规中心 or check our website.