Championing Diversity: Melanin-Rich Skin in the Beauty Industry

In the first article of this three-part series, we examined the role technology and shifting societal expectations play in developing personalization and inclusivity in the beauty and skincare industry. Now, we will look at how the industry has already catered to diverse demographics and where there is still room for improvement. We will highlight four excellent brands and retailers paving the way for inclusive beauty products and discover the science behind skincare personalization.??

After years of overlooking customers whose skin did not match the industry “standard,” the beauty sector is slowly starting to cater to melanin-rich skin (deeper skin tones) through personalization. Women of color are a huge and essential part of our global community and an important beauty customer segment. They have unique needs and are willing to invest in personalized cosmetics, but until recently, those needs have been almost entirely dismissed. In 2018, women of color spent nine times more on beauty products than their lighter-skinned counterparts[4]. Yet many beauty brands still neglect the needs and characteristics of those with deeper skin tones, failing to tap into this growing demand.?

Some inclusive options do not offer good value for high price points with a very limited supply, which leaves many customers dissatisfied and discouraged. This is because many beauty and skincare companies fail to consider the unique characteristics of diverse skins from the beginning of the product design process. They often simply remarket the same formulas and products developed for those with the Caucasian phenotype (lighter skin), only tweaking minor formula ingredients or adding limited color options. This is called limited personalization, which creates the illusion of inclusivity but ultimately benefits the brand, not the customer.?

Beauty Inclusivity Champions: Fenty, Lakme, Ulta, and Lanc?me

Thankfully, there are successful examples in the cosmetics industry that have made tremendous progress in terms of inclusivity and personalization. We want to highlight Fenty Beauty, Lakme Cosmetics, Ulta, and Lanc?me, all of which offer high-quality cosmetics and skincare products tailored to diverse needs. Let’s examine these case studies to see how brands can do skincare inclusivity right.

1. Rihanna’s brand, Fenty Beauty (and yes, we all are into the Fenty Beauty Setting-Blotting Powder after the Superbowl) launched in 2017 and immediately blew up the market by generating over €500 million in sales during its first year. Fenty focused its messaging around inclusivity, which took center stage in its product development and marketing. Fenty also made its products widely accessible by launching 40 (now 50+!) shades for all its cosmetics. Fenty shades range from extremely light to extremely deep and include multiple undertone options. The cosmetics are available in 17 countries, across 1620 stores, and on numerous online platforms.[5}
2. Lakme Cosmetics is the first makeup brand to produce cosmetics explicitly tailored to the needs of Indian women. Since its launch, Lakme has captured a broad base of loyal customers who love its products for flawless performance in the hot Indian climate. Lakme’s customer-centric approach made it possible for the brand to maintain its market leadership for over 50 years.[6]
3. Our third inclusivity champion is the skincare retailer Ulta. By working with multiple brands to offer a wide range of products, Ulta focuses on meeting the needs of all their customers, not just a select few. From makeup shades matching deeper skin tones to grooming products explicitly tailored to textured hair, Ulta ensures no one feels left out or underappreciated. Its curated collection of brands, which includes Bread, Donna’s Recipie, Bevel, BeautyStat, and Juvia’s Place, creates an environment where skin differences and needs receive equal representation.
4. Last but not least, our list would not be complete without a well-deserved spotlight on Lanc?me. Lanc?me goes beyond what most brands understand ‘inclusivity’ to mean, proving that all should have access to beauty and cosmetics that work for them. Early in January 2023, Lanc?me announced its AI-powered motion stability device, which helps people with disabilities apply makeup. Lanc?me’s tool captures the essence of inclusivity in our industry - everyone deserves to feel looked after and beautiful.?

Beauty Diversity Basics: The Science of Skin

Following the success of these and other brands that promote inclusivity, more skincare companies have spotted the untapped opportunity tied to catering to previously overlooked consumers. However, not all so-called inclusive brands have gained as much traction and popularity as their pioneering counterparts. Some received severe criticism for being half-hearted, putting too little effort into research, and focusing on generating higher revenues from riding the inclusivity “trend” wave.[8] Why? Research showed that some of those companies were failing to offer the same selection of products to those with deeper skin tones compared to their lighter-skinned counterparts,[9] which is unequal and unfair treatment.

Marketers are well aware of the demand for personalized products, so why are many still failing to become more inclusive?

One of the reasons is that many companies disregard the unique characteristics and qualities of melanin-rich skin when designing products. Diverse skin shades and ethnic backgrounds have extremely different characteristics related to pigmentation, hydration, sebum production, pathological conditions and tendencies, and more. The color of the skin is determined by special cells called melanocytes, which are the cells that produce and contain melanin - a pigment that protects our skin against sun damage. The difference in deep or light pigmentation is not in the number of melanocytes but in the production level of melanin.[10] Beyond science, what does it mean in practice?

Caucasian skin is characterized by smaller pigment cells, less melanin, a thinner stratum corneum (the outermost layer of our skin), dermis, and decreased water loss [19, 20]. In contrast, deeper-toned skin of African origin is characterized by larger melanosomes (the organs responsible synthesis, storage and transportation of melanin), more melanin, a thicker stratum corneum (the outermost layer of the skin) and dermis (the inner layer of the skin), proportional to pigmentation level.[11]

Melanin-rich skin tends to have lower skin barrier function and is usually dryer than lighter skin tones. This is typically dependent on the water balance and lipid (body fat) metabolism. Skin produces a thin protective layer of a particular fat substance called sebum, while ceramides (lipid molecules) are examples of the significant components of this protective layer. Many studies have shown decreased levels of ceramides in deeper-toned skin compared to Caucasian and Asian skin types.[12] Oil-free hydrating products with topical antioxidants (e.g., idebenone or coenzyme Q10) are great moisturizing solutions for deeper skin tones, and lotions with glycolic acid will hydrate and improve skin texture. People with this skin type should avoid abrasive peeling as it may lead to postinflammatory hyperpigmentation.[21]

The character of aging differs depending on skin tone, which is especially important to keep in mind when designing and choosing anti-aging or protective skincare products. UV radiation is one of the main factors contributing to skin aging. Hyperpigmentation, wrinkling, DNA damage, and elevated oxidative stress are all consequences of prolonged sun exposure that lead to so-called photoaging. The natural UV also contributes to collagen and elastin destruction. These fibrillar proteins are responsible for skin elasticity. It leads to? wrinkled or sagging skin. Widely dispersed melanocytes, along with the high melanin content of deeper-toned skin types, help to protect the skin against UV radiance. Fine wrinkles, mottled pigmentation, and dermatosis papulosa nigra are the main pathological conditions associated with photoaging in deeper-toned skin types.[13] Even though high melanin content provides better protection against UV, it is still recommended to use SPF30+ creams and lotions for daily photoprotection. Topical treatments with retinoids, hydroquinone, alpha hydroxy acids, and antioxidants are also good options for melanin-centric product lines. Skincare cosmetics must do more than account for the environmental pollutants and UV exposure, they need to cater to skin needs.[16,17,18]

All of the above must be considered by beauty brands if they are to create genuinely inclusive products. Yet, many beauty businesses fail to include research and science in product development. The result? Producing, marketing, and selling products that are less effective or damaging to those with deeper-toned skin types.?

When developing inclusive products, beauty and skincare brands must think about the most commonly diagnosed skin conditions among various skin types. For example, African American, Asian, and Hispanic patients visiting a dermatologist present most frequently with acne, whereas the top skin condition in Caucasian patients is dermatitis or eczema. Native Americans, as well as Arab Americans, are also commonly diagnosed with acne.[14] Almost 75% of people with a deeper skin tone have more severe skin conditions, such as postinflammatory hyperpigmentation or scarring. Based upon existing studies, 90.8% of Asian patients have acne scarring (Japanese population research), and 58.2% have post-inflammatory hyperpigmentation (among different Asian countries).[15] Brands in the beauty and skincare industries should offer people of color gentle cleansers for acne-prone skin and non-comedogenic moisturizers since their skins are more delicate and prone to damage than lighter skin tones. Identifying a population’s specific needs at a deep, scientific level, rather than solely at a surface (marketing-led) level, should be at the heart of true inclusivity within this industry.?

In the final piece of our skincare inclusivity series, we will outline several strategies and steps beauty brands can take today to create a more genuinely inclusive future for all consumers. We will discuss the tools that help deliver science-backed, highly customized, and inclusive experiences. If you would like to see how those tools can bring skin analysis and personalized product recommendations to your business, book a demo with Haut.AI today. We have numerous software integration options for various business sizes and models, and we are sure we will find a solution that will work for your business and your customers.

References:

[4] Harmon Stephenetta, “Black Consumers Spend Nine Times More in Hair & Beauty: Report”, February 26, 2018, URL: https://www.hypehair.com/86642/black-consumers-continue-to-spend-nine-times-more-in-beauty-report/

[5] Indigo Digital, “Fenty Beauty’s Growth Strategy: What You Need to Know”, August 23, 2021, URL: https://www.indigo9digital.com/blog/3-secrets-to-the-success-of-fenty-beauty-you-may-not-know-but-need-to

[6] Subramanian Akshara, “My Loyalty To Lakme Revealed Why Knowing Your Customer Is Key For Retail Success”, October 1, 2020, URL: https://vue.ai/blog/retail-voices/lakme-customer-experience-indian-beauty/

[7] Oprah Daily, “The Best Beauty Products of 2020, According to O, The Oprah Magazine”, August 5, 2020, URL: https://www.oprahdaily.com/beauty/a33499050/beauty-owards-2020/

[8] Werle, Adrienne, "Beyond Light, Medium, and Dark: Diversity and Inclusivity in the Makeup and Beauty Industries" (2019). Mahurin Honors College Capstone Experience/Thesis Projects. Paper 831, p.10

[9] Frisby, C. M. (2019). “Black and Beautiful: A Content Analysis and Study of Colorism and Strides toward Inclusivity in the Cosmetic Industry.” Advances in Journalism and Communication, 7, 35-54, URL: https://doi.org/10.4236/ajc.2019.72003

[10] Ezzedine K, Eleftheriadou V, Whitton M, van Geel N. Vitiligo. Lancet. 2015 July 4;386(9988):74-84. doi: 10.1016/S0140-6736(14)60763-7. Epub 2015 Jan 15. PMID: 25596811.

[11] Markiewicz E, Idowu OC. Personalized skincare: from molecular basis to clinical and commercial applications. Clin Cosmet Investig Dermatol. 2018 Apr 11;11:161-171. doi: 10.2147/CCID.S163799. PMID: 29692619; PMCID: PMC5903487.

[12] Alexis AF, Woolery-Lloyd H, Williams K, Andriessen A, Desai S, Han G, Perez M, Roberts W, Taylor S. Racial/Ethnic Variations in Skin Barrier: Implications for Skin Care Recommendations in Skin of Color. J Drugs Dermatol. 2021 Sep 1;20(9):932-938. doi: 10.36849/jdd.6312. PMID: 34491028.

[13] Venkatesh S, Maymone MBC, Vashi NA. Aging in skin of color. Clin Dermatol. 2019 Jul-Aug;37(4):351-357. doi: 10.1016/j.clindermatol.2019.04.010. Epub 2019 Apr 26. PMID: 31345323.

[14] Davis EC, Callender VD. A review of acne in ethnic skin: pathogenesis, clinical manifestations, and management strategies. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2010 Apr;3(4):24-38. PMID: 20725545; PMCID: PMC2921746.

[15] Alexis AF, Woolery-Lloyd H, Williams K, Andriessen A, Callender VD, Kang S, Rodriquez D, Tan J. Racial/Ethnic Variations in Acne: Implications for Treatment and Skin Care Recommendations for Acne Patients With Skin of Color. J Drugs Dermatol. 2021 July 1; 20(7):716-725. doi: 10.36849/JDD.6169. PMID: 34232006.

[16] Tsai J, Chien AL. Photoprotection for Skin of Color. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2022 Mar;23(2):195-205. doi: 10.1007/s40257-021-00670-z. Epub 2022 Jan 19. PMID: 35044638; PMCID: PMC8766623.

[17] Davis EC, Callender VD. Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation: a review of the epidemiology, clinical features, and treatment options in skin of color. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2010 Jul;3(7):20-31. PMID: 20725554; PMCID: PMC2921758.

[18] Alexis AF, Woolery-Lloyd H, Williams K, Andriessen A, Desai S, Han G, Perez M, Roberts W, Taylor S. Racial/Ethnic Variations in Skin Barrier: Implications for Skin Care Recommendations in Skin of Color. J Drugs Dermatol. 2021 Sep 1;20(9):932-938. doi: 10.36849/jdd.6312. PMID: 34491028.1.

[19] Voegeli R, Gierschendorf J, Summers B, Rawlings AV. Facial skin mapping: from single point bio-instrumental evaluation to continuous visualization of skin hydration, barrier function, skin surface pH, and sebum in different ethnic skin types. Int J Cosmet Sci. 2019 Oct;41(5):411-424. doi: 10.1111/ics.12562. Epub 2019 Aug 30. PMID: 31325176; PMCID: PMC6851972.

[20] Wesley NO, Maibach HI. Racial (ethnic) differences in skin properties: the objective data. Am J Clin Dermatol. 2003;4(12):843–860.

[21] Davis EC, Callender VD. Postinflammatory hyperpigmentation: a review of the epidemiology, clinical features, and treatment options in skin of color. J Clin Aesthet Dermatol. 2010 Jul;3(7):20-31. PMID: 20725554; PMCID: PMC2921758.