CARTIER takes a marvelous look at the "Beautés du Monde"

January 2023: during the Haute Joaillerie Fashion Week, Cartier exhibits some 40 pieces at the Ritz for this third chapter on the “Beautés du Monde” collection. The Parisian jeweler never tires of introducing us to a world of beauty and refinement through its style and sublime stones.

The repertoire of a style

Everything about this collection speaks of Cartier: the rigorous, geometric designs, heirs to Art Deco graphics, the suppleness and fluidity of the necklaces, the perfect harmony of shapes, the strong presence of stones, the engraved gems of the Tutti Frutti style that is part of all the House's high jewelry collections, the ritual color combinations at Cartier, black and red, green and black, green and blue, the exotic animal inspiration, the long body of the animal that embraces the neck and of course, the presence of the panther.

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Fluidity

The collections are inspired by all the beauties of the world, but in the manner of Cartier, transformed by the hand of the artisan jeweler. The fluidity of the necklaces first of all. In gold or platinum, each tenth of a centimeter has been thought out and worked on to articulate with the other small pieces that make up the whole. The jewel is like a fabric on the skin and its setting as regular as the thread and weft that weave it. Illustrating this fluidity, the precious Splendens breastplate gracefully unties its weave of diamonds and red spinels. It reproduces the movement of the fighting fish, whose long, cut-out fins undulate in the ocean like ample scarlet silks.

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The Japanese spirit of Art Deco

Among the beauties of the world, there is also art. We love the Obi necklace, which takes up a traditional Japanese motif, the alignment of unfurled fans, here punctuated by 8 cabochons of bright, aquatic emeralds. Very typical of Art Deco, of which Cartier was one of the major jewelers, this necklace takes up the Japanese inspirations of this period. Everything in this necklace speaks to us of Cartier, including the mix of colors, green and red and the small onyx inserts that emphasize the 1930s side and that are often found in his creations since the early twentieth century.

The panther queen and the animal world

Always majestic, sometimes lascivious, the Cartier panther rests on the stone or embraces it with tenderness, observing the world like a haughty and impassive queen. On a necklace set with 9 superb emeralds of a vivid and luminous green, she seems to rest on the horizontally set center stone. On another necklace, she sits on balls of opaque, surprising and rare blue-green jade.

Another animal evocation, the Camail necklace - long narrow feathers from the neck and chest of birds - lines up 5 Colombian pear emeralds (in all 42.44 cts). The arrangement of the stones set at an angle gives movement, evoking the flight of the bird and showing the beauty of its plumage. As for the Ocelle necklace, it illustrates with two opals of 16.59 and 6.19 carats and a 21.18 carat emerald from Zambia the typical blue and green cameo of peacock feathers that Louis Cartier had used extensively to the point of making it a signature of the House, the famous peacock decoration. At the time, the mix was daring. In this prodigiously complex creation, the small feathers are superimposed one on top of the other thanks to meticulous work that makes the jewelry framework of the whole light, mobile and its setting invisible.?

Each piece celebrates the rarity and beauty of the stones, chosen and assembled in a surprising way. A subtle effect on the Lonid bracelet, whose central stone is a gigantic aquamarine of 36.68 cts. Its intense azure contrasts with the soft stones that surround it, pale aquamarine droplets and cabochons of diaphanous pink rubellites. The result is stunning and beautiful, Cartier has that audacity.

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The House's odyssey through the vast repertoire of fauna, flora, stones, forms and arts never ends. For nearly two centuries, Cartier has been able to observe and interpret all the beauties of the world through the many eras whose changing fashions and styles have been sources of inspiration.

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Isabelle Hossenlopp, January 2023

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See also :

(in English)

Cartier and Van Cleef & Arpels – Time from two different perspectives https://isabelle-hossenlopp.com/en/cartier-and-van-cleef-arpels-time-from-two-different-perspectives/

(in French)

Cartier and the arts of Islam https://isabelle-hossenlopp.com/cartier-et-les-arts-de-lislam/

?Cartier and Egyptomania https://isabelle-hossenlopp.com/legyptomanie-ou-limaginaire-joaillier-chez-cartier-et-van-cleef-arpels/