The Cartier Santos: A Comprehensive History

The Cartier Santos holds a distinguished place in the history of watchmaking, as it represents the birth of the first men’s wristwatch, introduced by Cartier in 1911. While Rolex and other brands are celebrated for technological innovations, Cartier's creation of the Santos wristwatch marked the beginning of a new era in horology. This article delves into the origins, evolution, and modern iterations of the Cartier Santos, exploring its lasting impact on the world of luxury watches.

The Birth of the Wristwatch: 1904

The story of the Cartier Santos begins in 1904 when Brazilian aviator Alberto Santos-Dumont expressed his frustration to his friend Louis Cartier about the difficulty of using a pocket watch while flying. In response, Cartier designed a flat wristwatch with a square bezel, which he presented to Santos-Dumont. The watch quickly gained popularity among other customers, making it the first mass-produced men’s wristwatch, and also the first pilot’s watch.

The design of the Santos was inspired by a square pocket watch that Cartier had previously created. Its legible dial hinted at the Art Deco style that would become prominent in the 1920s and 1930s, a design aesthetic that continues to influence Cartier’s creations today. The case was designed to be robust, with screws securing the glass, reminiscent of the legs of the Eiffel Tower. The black Roman numerals on the dial were arranged to suggest the radial layout of Paris’s streets and wide boulevards.

By 1911, Cartier began full production of the Santos-Dumont watch, which was equipped with a movement from Jaeger, making it the first men’s wristwatch to be commercially available. The initial models were offered in platinum and yellow gold, with dimensions of 25mm x 35mm, and typically came with brown or black leather straps featuring a gold folding buckle. This was also when Cartier introduced the deployant (folding) buckle, a feature that set the brand apart from its competitors.

The Evolution of the Santos: The Early 20th Century

Cartier continued to manufacture the Santos throughout the first half of the 20th century. However, the onset of World War II and the military’s preference for round watches led to a decline in the popularity of the Santos' square design. Despite this, the Santos remained a significant part of Cartier’s lineup, evolving with the changing tastes of the times.

The Santos as a Sports Watch: 1970s

The 1970s saw the rise of luxury sport watches, characterised by high-end pieces made from stainless steel. Notable examples included Gerald Genta’s Audemars Piguet Royal Oak and Patek Philippe Nautilus. In response to this trend, Cartier revamped the Santos in 1978, renaming it the Santos de Cartier. The new design featured an integrated bracelet, replacing the traditional leather strap. Cartier broke with tradition by using stainless steel for both the case and bracelet, a significant departure for a brand known for working exclusively with precious metals. To maintain a touch of luxury, Cartier incorporated 18k gold into the design, creating a popular “bimetal” gold-steel look that became iconic in the 1980s.

Following the success of the bimetal Santos, Cartier also introduced an all-steel model. This period marked a significant transformation for the Santos, positioning it as a versatile and stylish sports watch.

The Santos Galbée and the Quartz Crisis: 1980s

In 1987, Cartier introduced a revised version of the Santos, known as the Santos Galbée. The new design featured a more curved case, making it more comfortable on the wrist. Most models of the Santos Galbée were powered by quartz movements, although some mechanical versions were also available. The last update to the Santos Galbée came in 2005 with the release of the Santos Galbée XL. This larger version measured 32 x 45 mm and was powered by an automatic ETA 049 caliber. The XL model retained the classic Santos design while reflecting the growing trend toward larger watches. The Santos Galbée also offered a bimetal option with a steel and yellow gold case.

The Santos-Dumont and the Collection Privée Cartier Paris

While the sportier versions of the Santos gained attention in the 1970s and 1980s, Cartier continued to produce the classic Santos-Dumont in yellow gold. The Santos-Dumont was available in both “gentleman’s” and “ladies’” sizes, with the men’s version eventually increasing to 27mm across the dial. The Santos-Dumont models were often equipped with the F. Piguet caliber 21, one of the thinnest manual-wind movements of the time, though some models featured ETA-powered movements.

In 1998, Cartier introduced the Collection Privée Cartier Paris (CPCP), a line of historical models outfitted with high-end manufacture calibers. Among these releases were two new Santos-Dumont models, measuring 36 x 27mm, available in platinum or yellow gold, and powered by a Frédéric Piguet movement. One of the most striking Santos-Dumont models from this period is the CPCP in platinum with a salmon dial, produced in a limited run of just 90 pieces to commemorate the Santos-Dumont’s 90th anniversary. This model has become highly sought after by collectors.

In 2004, Cartier celebrated the 100th anniversary of the Santos by launching a new Santos-Dumont model, dubbed the “1913.” This limited edition of just 100 pieces in yellow gold featured Breguet-style hands and a design reminiscent of the 1998 version, making it highly desirable among collectors.

The Santos 100: A Modern Classic

To mark the centenary of the Santos in 2004, Cartier introduced the Santos 100 collection. The Santos 100 was a modern interpretation of the classic design, with the large version measuring 51mm tall and 41mm wide, and the medium version measuring 35.6mm. Both models were powered by automatic ETA calibers, with the large version using the ETA 049 and the medium version the ETA 076.

The Santos 100 collection also saw the introduction of modern materials such as black PVD-coated stainless steel and titanium. Some models featured chronograph functions, while others showcased Cartier’s fine watchmaking skills with skeletonised designs. These skeletonised models, including the Santos-Dumont in White Gold and the Santos-Dumont in titanium with ADLC coating, featured larger cases and the first in-house manufactured movement by Cartier, the 9611 MC.

The 2018 Revival of the Santos

After more than a decade of inactivity, Cartier revived the Santos collection at the Salon International de la Haute Horlogerie (SIHH) in 2018. The new collection featured 13 watches in two sizes: medium and large. Cartier modernised the design while staying true to the watch’s historical roots. The large model measured 39.8mm x 47.5mm, while the medium version measured 35mm x 41.9mm.

The 2018 Santos collection was available in stainless steel, pink gold, and yellow gold, with each model powered by Cartier’s in-house automatic movement, the caliber 1847 MC. This movement, which features 23 jewels and a 42-hour power reserve, marked Cartier’s return to using in-house movements for the Santos line. Additionally, the collection introduced Cartier’s innovative SmartLink system, allowing wearers to adjust the bracelet size without the need for a jeweller. The QuickSwitch system also made it easy to swap the bracelet for a leather strap, both of which were included with the watch.

The 2019 Expansion: Santos Chronograph and Santos-Dumont

Cartier expanded the Santos line in 2019 with the introduction of the Santos Chronograph and a quartz-powered Santos-Dumont. The Santos Chronograph was available in three versions: stainless steel with a black steel bezel, stainless steel with an 18k yellow gold bezel, and all 18k rose gold. The chronograph featured an in-house 1904-CH MC automatic movement, with the pusher located on the left side of the case and the reset button integrated into the crown, giving the watch a symmetrical appearance.

The 2019 Santos-Dumont was offered in two sizes: small (27.5mm wide) and large (31.4mm wide). Available in steel, two-tone, and rose gold, the Santos-Dumont retained the classic design elements of the original Santos, including long Roman numerals and a distinctive crown. Although the watch was powered by a quartz movement, Cartier emphasized the six-year battery life as a selling point. The Santos-Dumont was priced competitively, making it an attractive entry-level option for those interested in Cartier’s design aesthetic.

Conclusion: The Enduring Legacy of the Cartier Santos

With its revival in 2018 and subsequent expansion in 2019, the Cartier Santos has solidified its place as a foundational piece in Cartier’s watchmaking portfolio. While it may not have the universal appeal of the Tank, the Santos offers a deeper connection to Cartier’s history, appealing to watch enthusiasts who appreciate its timeless design and pioneering spirit.

The latest iterations of the Santos have been well-received, suggesting a continued interest in the line among modern consumers. By returning to the classic lines of the original Santos and incorporating in-house movements, Cartier has reaffirmed its commitment to being a leading watchmaker in the 21st century. The Cartier Santos, first introduced in 1904, remains a testament to Cartier’s enduring design language, proving that a watch born over a century ago can still captivate the world today.

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