Canvas in Suiting

Custom Tailored Suits

Bespoke suits are fully custom-made, crafted from a pattern designed specifically to your measurements. This process begins with a "scrap suit," a mockup made from scrap fabric, allowing adjustments to be made without affecting the final fabric. This ensures the best possible fit and shape before the final cutting.

The term "bespoke" originates from early tailoring, where fabric reserved for a client was "spoken for."

The Role of Canvas in Suit Structure

A high-quality suit uses canvas—a layer of natural fibers between the outer fabric and lining. "Full canvas" suits have this interlining throughout the jacket, offering better shape, durability, and breathability. This natural canvas molds to the body over time, creating a personalized fit, whereas cheaper "fused" or half-canvas suits lack these qualities.

Our jackets, whether half or full canvas, extend canvas into the lapels with pad stitching to create a smooth "lapel roll"—the gentle curve from collar to button that defines the suit’s shape. Poorly made suits often have a flat, creased lapel due to lack of proper canvas structure.

Historically, suits were built with horsehair canvas to maintain structure and prevent sagging, much like a foundation supports a building. Over time, the canvas adapts to your body, enhancing fit and drape for a polished look.