For Calicoz : When Europe Entered India

Ranganathan SVN Kondala

Simply a few rolls of calico fabric were all that was required to completely dominate Europe. It was one of the port's most well-known exports to the rest of the world, and it was named after a little trade town that was located along the Malabar coast called Calicut. How well-known is it? It was so well-known that the British government decided to implement a prohibition on its importation in order to safeguard the interests of the local weavers. Upon reflection, it seems clear that the trade in calico would prove to be one of the driving forces behind the expansion of the British East India Company in India.

There was a small weaving group in Kerala known as the Saliyas who were responsible for the development of calico, which may be traced back to the 16th century CE. There is also proof of a comparable piece of fabric that was discovered in Egypt by historians. This piece of cloth is thought to have come from a port in Gujarat during the 15th century Christian era.

In 1592, the Portuguese would be the ones to bring the fabric to Europe, and they would do it with the assistance of their monopoly on the commercial route to India. It was not until the British had taken possession of a Portuguese commercial nau or ship that they became aware of this fabric. As well as pursue its trade with ferocity.

About thirty years from now, the Carreira do índia, also known as the Portuguese India trade route, would see a decrease, so paving the way for the commerce conducted by the Britist East India Company. Beginning in the year 1621 CE, they would establish a base at Surat, which was located farther to the north of the Malabar coast, and begin exporting calico to England.

Out of the Portuguese, the Dutch have arrived. When the 1630s rolled around, there would be a new participant in the arena, and they would be competing for the same prize. The Dutch were now looking to gain control of the calico trade to Europe. With over 43 percent of Dutch exports from India to Europe consisting of textiles, the majority of which were calico, the stakes were exceptionally high at this time. The prot might be anything from 65 percent to 160 percent.

From the perspective of the British East India Company, the most valuable commodity that Surat exported was calico. Furthermore, this was spurred by an increase in the demand for the fabric. It wasn't long before the fabric was being used for things like tablecloths, coverlets, napkins, and wall hangings; nevertheless, it would eventually find its way into the clothing industry. Calico became as an essential practical item for all social strata in England throughout the course of time. In addition to being used for stockings and diapers, calico was also used for shifts. There was also an increase in exports to other regions, such as Africa.

It is incredible to see the trade data from this time period. A total of around 84,000 pieces of the various types of calico that were produced in India were shipped by the British. This would only continue to worsen. By the year 1684 CE, the amount of calicoes that were sent to England had surpassed a quarter of a million pieces, and this accounted for as much as 73% of the company's total commerce.

In the 1680s, when these textiles were being utilised for clothing, the calico mania reached its pinnacle. The ladies of merchants had given up wearing Venetians and English brocades in favour of glazed calico, which was termed "Indian Chintz" by the general public. Over the course of around ten years, the cloth known as "Chintz" would become ubiquitous, with trousseau being crafted from it. It would even make its way into popular culture, appearing in anniversaries and other festivities. In point of fact, the term "calico wedding" was used to refer to the very first wedding anniversaries.

As a result of the overstocking that would result from the calico mania, the local textile industry in England would almost come to an end. This would have a negative influence on the economy. The turning point occurred in the year 1697 CE, when the silk weavers of Spitalelds had a consensus.

As a kind of protest against calico imports, London staged a riot. In the subsequent steps, the British Parliament imposed a "calico tax" and then proceeded to pass a prohibition act against the fabric. This was followed by the implementation of regulations. Severe punishments were inflicted on anybody who was discovered to be wearing the cloth. As a consequence of this, the British East India Company would start exporting raw cotton to Europe, which would provide necessary fuel for the textile industry in Britain. This action would have significant ramifications for the Indian textile sector.

By the 1820s, the calico trade had begun to decline, and the fabric that had taken Europe by storm would never again enjoy the glory days that it had in the past. At the Pentonville Prison in England, all of the convicts who were held in solitary confinement were had to wear calico hoods whenever they were outside of their cells.

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