BUSINESS ATTIRE FOR INDIAN WOMEN

The way we dress and the way we groom ourselves is an important part of business etiquette. Our visual image helps others identify who we are and gives them a brief idea of our educational background, occupation and social status. And in this fast-paced world where we spare no time to make judgments based on the visual image of a person, others also make impressions of us within the first few seconds of meeting us, based on the way we are dressed.

Besides regional differences that exist in the way we dress, the culture of the organisation where we work, seniority level, professional standing, our age, the city we live in, the climate, the mode of transport we use to get to work, as well our personal style are equally important deciding factors when it comes to showcasing our personality. As women, we have more options when it comes to dressing for work, which can make it cumbersome to arrive at a decision on what to wear for a formal official event or for a regular day at work.

While the classic business suit – skirt or trouser with a jacket works well for a formal look, not all of us are comfortable sporting a western look given our body type and personality. If we talk of formal, business attire in an Indian context, broadly, there exist three main options for women - the saree, the salwar kameez and Indo-western wear, which is basically an amalgamation of Indian and western wear, put together in an interesting way.

1.      Saree: The most graceful and elegant choice for formal business meetings, makes it an absolute wardrobe essential. It’s versatility makes it a good choice for everyday dress to work or a boardroom meeting, a business lunch or a dinner party. Being the national dress of Indian women, it can also be worn at international conventions.

  Depending on the occasion, it can be dressed up or dressed down with the help of accessories to express feminity in a fashionable way.

With every state having its own speciality in terms of embroidery or weave, there is an exquisite variety of sarees available, women are definitely spoilt for choice. However, the way we accessorise and drape a saree can be tricky as it shows awareness of how one looks and what one would like to project. A few guidelines that must be kept in mind… a)      It is best to avoid transparent sarees, net, lace and heavily embroidered varieties. Bright and flashy colours must be avoided.  The dressy south Indian silks and embroidered crepes and chiffons are best worn at business dinners.  b)     The blouse can be in a matching or contrasting colour, with a standard neckline and cut.  c)      Drape the saree in a way which is suitable for a professional look. It should not be tied too low or too high.  Also, keep the pallu pleated and pinned in place to give a formal and neat look. This will help in keeping it in place through the day.  d)     Amp up the formal look by adding on a jacket or long coat.  e)     Accessorise with a string of pearls or a thin chain. Wearing chunky/flashy jewellery can be distracting. f)       Choose the right footwear between a formal pair of peep toe shoes, wedge heeled sandals or elegantly designed heeled slip on chappals.

The examples of two elegant women who made the saree their style statement are our late Prime minister Indira Gandhi and Late Maharani Gayatri Devi, Raj Mata of Jaipur. There was a certain kind of grace and finesse in the way they carried their saree. 

2.      Salwar Kameez: The most popular garment for women across India, the salwar kameez covers the body completely, gives you a visually slimmer silhouette, and is more comfortable than a saree because it allows easier leg movement.  Of course, it is not formal enough for a boardroom meeting, or a business dinner, but is a great choice for everyday office wear. The only drawback is that the styles change very fast so it needs a higher investment as compared to other dress styles. A few guidelines to keep in mind… a)      Go for the simple, classic, straight kurta and churidhar.  Anarkali kurtas and the heavily embroidered ones are best for weddings and other social occasions.  b)     If you have slimmer legs, you can opt for shorter kurtas and churidhars, but on women with heavier legs, it’s the longer kurtas and salwars/palazzo pants that look good. c)      Avoid very short kurtas that barely go past your hips. Also avoid kurtas which have very long side slits that run upto or beyond your hips.                                                                             d)     Salwar Kameez for office wear is incomplete without a dupatta. Opt for a solid coloured dupatta to co-ordinate with your outfit. Do not go for too much of a mix and match look. e)     Keep the fit comfortable and easy. Tight and figure hugging kurtas are not suitable for the workplace. f)       Salwar kameez look good with closed shoes or sandals with wedge heels, or flat mojris which are not too colourful.

3.      Indo western: Also called ‘Fusion wear’, helps a person break away from the shackles of conventional dressing norms and allows more creativity. It could be a mix and match of cut, print, fabric or style to give an outfit an interesting twist. Yet it can never be a substitute to a saree for a boardroom meeting.  Also, a word of caution with indo western dressing would be to consider the company culture before trying a fusion makeover.  A few guidelines…

a)     Keep it simple, don’t be extreme. You cannot go very wrong with a mid length, mandarin collar kurti and a pair of matching formal trousers or a long ankle length pencil skirt for a formal business dinner.  A matching scarf would complete the look.  b)     For daily office wear, a kurti and formal trouser combination is good. c)      Long dresses are back in fashion and a classic, straight cut dress with a matching scarf could also be a smart option for everyday office wear. d)     Crop tops in matching as well as contrasting colours, worn with sarees look smart and give a modern look. e)     Keep accessories to a minimum.  f)      Team it up with a pair of closed shoes or sandals with a wedge heel. 

Additionally, a few more do’s and don’t’s… a)       It is advisable to avoid sleeveless outfits in professional settings, specially if you have heavier arms as it draws unwanted attention towards the flab around the arms. b)      To conceal the heavier parts of your body, opt for darker colours. Light colours tend to focus more on the flabby part. c)      Vertical prints can make you look taller, whereas horizontal prints and large prints can make you look shorter. d)      Choose your fabrics wisely - lighter fabrics can give a slimming look whereas thicker fabric can make you look bulky. e)     Choose colours that complement your skin tone.

Keeping the Indian sensibility in mind, comfort and modesty should be given priority. The office isn’t a place to make a style statement. We should be noticed and appreciated for our professional expertise rather than a reflection of the latest fashion trend.

Shalini Mehta                                                                                           ‘Courtesy & Carriage’