Bring an extra edge to your cooking with advice from mustard sommelier Chef Brandon Collins

Mustard has long been a staple in the chef’s pantry and is largely regarded as a condiment. However, Brandon Collins Corporate Executive Chef, Unilever Food Solutions in North America, says it can be used to achieve a lot more in cooking: “The secret is to use it as a seasoning or ingredient, rather than just as a condiment. Mustard reacts just like salt in cooking and is very good at balancing flavours and enhancing the taste of the final dish.”

The trick is choosing the right mustard for the right dish and knowing when to add it. “For example, if you want to cut the richness of a bourguignon, add it at the end. To enhance a brownie, add it at the start,” says Chef Brandon.

He knows what he’s talking about. As one of only two mustard sommeliers in the world, he is an avid fan who has delved deep into the world of mustard, which he describes as “the godfather of brassicas”.

Qualifying as a mustard sommelier required understanding the many varieties of mustard plant from seed to table, including the different regions and climates they grow in, along with the plants’ lineage and how the end product reacts in the cooking process. This included working with everyone involved in the entire production process, including the mustard growers and the Unilever R&D team.

“We are very selective about what mustard seeds go into Maille. One distinct difference is that the seeds are cut, rather than ground, to preserve their unique flavour."?

La Maison Maille

Chef Brandon gained his mustard sommelier certification with #Maille quite simply because, like many chefs, he believes it’s the best mustard brand out there.

Maille can lay claim to being the mustard of kings and queens all the way back to the 1700s. Founded by Antoine-Claude Maille, a master vinegar maker in Paris in 1747, La Maison Maille quickly went from strength to strength. Antoine-Claude became an official supplier to the court of Louis XV, followed by the courts of Austria & Hungary, Empress Catherine II of Russia and Charles X, the King of France in 1830.

Maille became known as the “gold standard” in mustard, a legacy it maintains today. It is used by the best chefs across the world because of its highly regarded flavour profile.

Maille products are developed by an expert culinary team. Chef Brandon explains that the production process has largely remained the same since the mid 18th century. “We are very selective about what mustard seeds go into Maille. One distinct difference is that the seeds are cut, rather than ground, to preserve their unique flavour. We control how much of the pith we put in. The minimal processing means you get the heat without a lot of bitterness.”

"Choose the best quality product you can and try adding it at different stages of the cooking process to see how it changes the overall flavour."?

Making the right mustard choice for the right dish

So what are the characteristics of a good mustard? While it’s quite subjective, Chef Brandon opts for a more mellow mustard that’s easy to cook with. “It needs to have a slight hint of bitterness and a good level of acidity that allows you to properly balance the sweet or savoury qualities of the dish.”

He says Dijon, spicy and brown mustard are all very good for cooking. Maille Dijon Original Mustard is a particular favourite of his because of how versatile it is and its multiple applications in savoury and sweet dishes.

Unsurprisingly, Chef Brandon says he cooks with “a ton” of mustard and has a big appreciation for its endless uses, which includes everything from the traditional - a really good burger or hot dog topped with Dijon, served on the side with a top quality charcuterie board, mustard cream sauces to salad dressings, glazes and marinades for delicious braised meats. He also likes to add it to broth and pasta dough and uses it to prepare sweet creations like cookies, brownies and peach in Dijon.

One of his favourite dishes is a really good high fat, old style vanilla ice cream made with mustard. “The sweet-spicy-bitter mustard flavour is really interesting. It makes an exciting addition to a menu. A brown butter mustard ice cream goes really well with savoury items or try a Dijon and Maraschino cherry ice cream for something sweet.?It also goes really well in cocktails. The mustard is always there to enhance, not over power.”?

When it comes to getting the best mustard-infused results, Chef Brandon advises other chefs to “have some fun playing around with it. Choose the best quality product you can and try adding it at different stages of the cooking process to see how it changes the overall flavour. Try it when preparing traditional favourites and newer creations. Just don’t forget to use mustard as an ingredient or a seasoning, rather than just a condiment, and see how it deepens the flavour of the dish.”

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