Bora Bora

Just say "Bora Bora" and images of overwater bungalows, jagged peaks, and turquoise lagoons come straight to mind. Paradise for some; a tourist trap for others. Striving for authenticity, we, at Nani Travels, have long hesitated in selling this destination. What made us change our mind? As always, meeting the locals and understanding the myriad of ways our sustainable vision of tourism can make a positive impact over there.

Powering cultural revival amongst the youth

In Bora Bora, every single one of the 24 neighborhoods that exist has its own local non-profit dedicated to enhancing the lives of its community members.

On a sunny day, we met up with Caprice and Myrza, two dedicated volunteers, in one of Bora Bora's community centers. In true Polynesian fashion, we all sat on the floor and had the best time, chatting and laughing and discussing the struggles they face within their communities. For them, the challenge is to offer opportunities to a whole generation of teenagers that has lost interest in building a bright future for themselves.

Tourism has disrupted the social structure in Bora Bora. The nature of the business means that parents never have regular schedules: weekday dinners are no longer a thing, neither are family Sundays. And, even though the industry offers tons of work opportunities, it is actually quite rare for locals to make it to managing positions. Amongst the youth, anger and violence is peaking.

As a response, volunteers like Caprice and Myrza organize cultural events that gather and empower the youth. Heiva Rua, for instance, is an arts festival during which over 700 teenagers compete in disciplines such as traditional games (tu'aro maohi) or traditional dance (ori tahiti).

Standing on the shoulders of our matahiapo (elders)

Our elders, called matahiapo, are vital to the life of our Polynesian communities. Wise and respected, they carry the memory of the island they live on. While in Bora Bora, we were lucky enough to meet up with a couple of matahiapo that enlightened us with their knowledge.

Anatole, a member of Pahu Tini cultural association, told us about his ambitious vision of reviving Bora Bora's cultural identity. Over the years, as tourism developed, the postcard narrative completely took over. Today, Anatole is partnering up with elders and anthropologists to reconstitute the island's lost identity. As a means towards that goal, restoring Vahiavai, a traditional sailing canoe, is high on the list.

We also learned a great deal from Papi Otiri, a master fisherman that still uses ancient fishing techniques. With nostalgia, he recalled a time when there were only two hotels in Bora Bora; a time when everything was quiet and engines weren't disturbing life underwater. Today, he wishes to share his insights with visitors and show them a different way to explore his beloved island.

Locals and tourists unite for conservation

Luckily enough, our time in Bora Bora also showed us how the local tourism industry is taking steps towards sustainability. Some hotels have recruited ESG specialists, others are implementing financial schemes for tourists to contribute to environmental conservation, and more.

While we were there, we toured the HQ of Manta Trust environmental association, located within the Conrad resort. Since 2015, they have been a key player in researching the ecology of manta rays in French Polynesia and providing guidance on adequate management strategies. On-site, we met with the marine biologists in charge of the project who explained, with sparkles in their eyes, the positive impact they're making amongst tourists and locals alike.

Our final stretch of the journey led us to Tehani, head of Vaimanoanoa, Bora Bora's most influential environmental association. One of their key projects has been to set up a center to repair, restore, or upcycle donations such as TVs and furniture received, in part, from local hotels.

Auteure : Pauline Sillinger