Beyond Uniforms | The Indian Army's Love Affair With The Majestic Mountains
Himalayas as seen from the International Space Station

Beyond Uniforms | The Indian Army's Love Affair With The Majestic Mountains

In this first part of a four-part blog post series, let's explore the deep-rooted connection between the Indian Army and mountaineering. Origins, historical significance, early expeditions, and its role in the training and selection processes.

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History has had notable Indian explorers who assisted Britishers in mapping high altitude mountains, lakes and unexplored regions. For this deep-dive, however we will stick to explorations post Independence.

Seven years after India’s Independence, Prime Minister Jawaharlal Nehru & Bengal’s CM, Dr. BC Roy wanted to commemorate Tenzing Norgay?reaching Mount Everest (1953). They started Himalayan Mountaineering Institute in his hometown, Darjeeling.

Introduction to mountaineering as a vital skill in the Army

Mountaineering, with its inherent challenges and demands for physical and mental fortitude, has long been intertwined with the Indian Army. The rugged terrain of the Himalayas, which spans a significant portion of the northern borders of India, has not only posed strategic challenges but has also offered a unique training ground for the Indian Army.

Early expeditions and explorations by the Indian Army in the Himalayas

The Indian Army's foray into mountaineering began with several pioneering expeditions and explorations in the early 1900s. These expeditions not only aimed to conquer the unconquered peaks but also served as valuable training grounds for soldiers.

The Army Mountaineering Association (AMA) started in early 1950’s. Barely 4 years after it’s origination, an Indian team successfully climbed Cho Oyo in Nepal, world’s 6th highest peak.

Nanda Devi (1964): After two unsuccessful attempts, Colonel Narendra Kumar "Bull" led the Indian team to reach the highest peak that is completely in India.

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A view of Nanda Devi (7816m) from a snow camp on Devistan I (6678m) at about 6100 meters. Photo - Suman Dubey collection.

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Kanchenjunga (1977): In Spring of 1977 an expedition was planned and led by ace mountaineer Colonel Narendra Kumar along with then Major Prem Chand and Naik ND Sherpa. The successful expedition attracted limelight globally.

On May 31 Major Prem Chand and Naik Nima Dorje Sherpa left Camp VII at six A.M., first crossed a long snowfield which comes down from the face of the west ridge and then took to the rocks of the north ridge. It was a very long climb and they did not reach the summit until 2:54 P.M. They actually stayed 6 feet below the true summit to not offend Sikkimese religious feelings - Colonel N. Kumar
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Base camp for Mt Kanchenjunga. 1977

Trans Himalayan Expedition (1981-82): This famous expedition started from Kepang La in Arunachal on 15th Jan 1981 and ended in Karakoram Pass, Ladakh on May 15th, 1982. This expedition was led by Major HC Kohli.

The concept of Base Camp Management that is so important to Himalayan expeditions today arose in the 70’s from the Indian Army.

It was the successful climb of Kanchenjunga that had a profound effect to promote adventure in the country. Indian Army had tasted success and wanted to reach the top of the world. Army Adventure Foundation (AAF) was established in 1981 with an initial corpus of 40 lakh INR to fund the Everest Expedition.

Mount Everest Expedition (1985): After two unsuccessful missions, the third was led by Captain MS Kohli and the deputy lead was Colonel Narendra Kumar, fondly known as the “Bull”. 21 core team members and around 50 sherpas made up the team. The expedition was successful in placing 9 team members in four attempts on top of the world. India held this world record for the next 17 years.

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A commemorative postage stamp on Indian Everest Expedition was issued on 15 Aug 1965 by India Post.

Role of mountaineering in training & selection processes of the Indian Army

Mountaineering plays a crucial role in the training and selection processes of the Indian Army. The challenging nature of mountaineering requires individuals to develop physical endurance, mental resilience, teamwork, and leadership skills - qualities that are highly valued in the military.

The Indian Army has established specialized mountaineering institutes, such as the High Altitude Warfare School (HAWS) in Gulmarg, Jammu and Kashmir, to impart comprehensive training in mountaineering skills. These institutes offer courses that cover various aspects of mountaineering, including rock climbing, ice climbing, glacier travel, and high-altitude survival techniques. Courses are designed to enhance the soldiers abilities to operate effectively in extreme mountainous conditions.

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HAWS, Gulmarg

Mountaineering is an integral part of the selection process for elite units within the Indian Army, such as the Para Special Forces. Prospective candidates undergo rigorous training that includes mountain warfare exercises and high-altitude acclimatization to test their physical and mental capabilities.

Next week, we dive into the Army’s other prominent expeditions, success stories and challenges faced at high altitudes.

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#indianarmy #mountaineering #expedition #everest #kanchenjunga #nandadevi #haws #specialforces

Romil Barthwal, Army Veteran Major Gaurav Arya (Retd) Sqn Ldr Divya Rana (Retd) Rishabh Surendran Rakesh Upadhyay Yogesh Dhumal Shivam Vikal Col Anubhav Gairola, SM(Retd) Sukrit Gupta

Resources:

https://publications.americanalpineclub.org/articles/12197844700/Kanchenjunga-from-the-East

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Nanda_Devi

https://www.alpinist.com/doc/web18c/wfeature-suman-dubey-interview-1961-nanda-devi-expedition

https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/High_Altitude_Warfare_School

Yogesh Dhumal

Speciality: Mountaineering, Adventure, Security, Human Resource. Ex Vice Principal at Nehru Institute of Mountaineering, Uttarkashi Insta: yogi_mtn FB: Mountain Yogi

1 年

Well covered ??

Rakesh Upadhyay

Executive & Career Coach| Co founder Lisa Home Solutions I Corporate Trainer I Leadership Assessor |Facilitator I Army veteran

1 年

So true Akhil ????

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