Beyond Convention: Evolving Solutions for Print & Dye

Colour applications, from dying to printing, have long been regarded as hazardous areas of the fashion cycle. As awareness grows, the shift to a more responsible colour agenda is undergoing an industry wide reset, as documented in LTP’s newest 360° Innovation book?

Botanical dying, food waste and even bacteria are becoming commonly known alternatives to conventional dye methods. Increasingly accessible, these are being adopted by big names like Pangaia and and Asics who partnered with Pyrates to use natural bio-degradable dyes derived from plants, simultaneously working to open up the conversation and pushing towards wider scalability. Elsewhere brands like Nemen are highlighting a new aesthetic that embraces a more conscious approach to colour, with garment dyeing, experimental expressions and irregularity making every style unique.??

Inside the 5th edition of the LTP Group’s 360° Innovation Book, image source www.ltpgroup.com?

As consumers shift to embrace alternative and evolving options that have potential to offer more conscious solutions, we're witnessing a new generation of colour management enter the market.??

Affecting everything from recycling and resourcing, even through to adaptability, as Alex Ingildsen, CCO at LTP group explains;??

“We’ve been witnessing the textile industry taking significant steps away from the use of toxic dyes and chemicals, but understanding the options, processes and resulting qualities, will be key in selling its benefits to the consumer and leaving them more open to buying into evolving and changing colour aesthetics.’??

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We’ve highlighted below some of the most exciting evolving innovations coming through for the print and dye markets, all of which are also showcased in our LTP Innovation Book - IB.05.??

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Use Recycled Dyes?

Recycled fibres are becoming a key component across a range of materials, however recycling what goes onto and into the fibre has been less explored, until now. Solutions are emerging which work to mitigate the excessive use of chemicals and water associated with conventional dye methods.??

Easily integrated into existing facilities, London based Dye Recycle have developed a liquid technology that’s able to extract dyes from waste fibre, and transfer them to new fabrics, keeping dyes and the chemicals in the supply chain. Partnering with mills and brands using a wide range of fabric bases, Dye Recycle is working to scale up their technology to make it applicable for synthetic and bio-based synthetic options. On top of recycling the dye, Dye Recycle helps towards fibre to fibre recycling by providing de-coloured base fibre waste.??

Inside the 5th edition of the LTP Group’s 360° Innovation Book, image source www.ltpgroup.com?

Elsewhere, Italian based Officina+39s have developed a technology called Recycrom which uses waste textiles to create a dye powder that can be used through a range of applications on natural fibres.? Unlike other dyes, Recycrom is applied as a suspension and not as a chemical solution, making it easy to filter from water and in turn working to minimise its environmental impact. Having worked with Italian high-street retailer OVS at their launch, Recycrom have expanded to partner with Pangaia in their 2022 Re-Colour capsule.??

?Pangaia, Re-Colour Capsule, image source www.pangaia.com?

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New Naturals Emerge?

Continuing with the theme of alternative dyes, cropping up as a new natural dye option, Bee Pollen is entering the market. Similar to botanical dyes in the sense that the resulting colours, created by the pollen dye, are dependent on the plants that have been visited by the bees.??

Inside the 5th edition of the LTP Group’s 360° Innovation Book, image source www.ltpgroup.com?

An idea still in its infancy, apparel brand Older Brother worked with Californian based Eli’s Bees Company on their SS22 collection to bring pollen dying into the styles. The collection, appropriately named Pollination, uses pollen sustainably collected from family owned hives. With bees visiting local mountain plants like Black Sage, Ceanothus, Toyon and Laurel Sumac as well as Mulberry Wood and nut tannin extracts, the resulting colours for the collection include yellows, beiges and browns, reflecting the landscapes and plants the pollen was collected from.??

Olderbrother, Pollination collection, image source www.olderbrother.us?

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Older Brother have previously worked with other pioneering natural methods including using fermented plants as a dye source, as well as finishing garments with plant enzymes for added softness.??

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Removal Prints??

Perhaps one of the most novel ideas entering the market and highlighted in the LTP innovation book, is the idea of removable prints. Allowing individuals to remove and redesign their clothing at home, removable prints are the brainchild of Dutch designer Fioen van Balgooi.??

Inside the 5th edition of the LTP Group’s 360° Innovation Book, image source www.ltpgroup.com?

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Printed using an environmentally safe ink, the product is wearable and washable just like a conventionally dyed piece, however when washed with a specially designed detergent, the print is removed completely, leaving space for a new print. At present, the ink can be applied through digital printing or painting on a finished garment, but only works on natural based fibres having been tried on cotton and tencel.??

Image: Fioen van Balgooi, Removable Dye material testing?? (www.designboom.com)?

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Though not yet scalable, the idea has the potential for growth as an accessible way to update styles in line with fast paced changing trends, while simultaneously working towards garment longevity and reuse. Completely removing prints also allows for easier recycling at end of life, as the garment is one colour when shredded and re-spun. The concept also has potential for the active markets, allowing kits to be quickly updated when needed, mitigating the need for multiple versions.??

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How to get your copy of LTP’s Latest Innovation book?

IB.05 showcases the latest innovations in textiles, trims and technologies. To get your hands on a copy of the latest Innovation book, all existing customer should contact Alex.??

The 360° Innovation book has become a place for suppliers to introduce their latest “super materials” and pioneering developments. If you’re an innovative supplier and wish to be featured in the next edition, please contact Alex.?

This resource is created as part of the companies Value Added Services which are strategically developed to provide brands with the tools to drive new and exciting innovations. This suite includes:?

LTP Consciously Crafted?

3D Product Visualization ?

Sustainability Solutions Accelerator?

Product Design & Development, Creation and Innovation ?

360° Innovation book ?

Seasonal Trend Analysis for the Sport & Outdoor Industry ?

The Sport & Outdoor Apparel Network?

For more information please feel free to contact Alex at the LTP Group [[email protected]].?

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About LTP?

LTP is a Danish owned garment manufacturer for +60 premium brands within active sportswear, cycling, outdoor, urban performance, performance running and organic & lifestyle apparel. LTP was established in 1991 and now spans two continents - Europe and Asia with 6 fully owned factories. Our European Innovation Centre is located in Kaunas, Lithuania and our Asian Innovation Centre is located in Ho Chi Minh City, Vietnam. We have a bluesign partner factory in all 5 countries where we operate (Lithuania, Ukraine, Romania, Belarus and Vietnam).?

LTP consists of two divisions; LTP Garment and LTP Furniture producing in eleven fully-owned factories.?