Being a Taphophile in Sri Lanka

Being a Taphophile in Sri Lanka

When I introduce myself as a taphophile, the first question many people ask me is “what's a taphophile?”

My simple answer is, it’s someone who enjoys visiting cemeteries and their associated history which also can link to what is also referred to as "black tourism". The latter relates normally to locations that are known because of unfortunate events that took place. I’ve written about many, e.g. Auschwitz, the Irish uprising, Hiroshima and numerous locations in Sri Lanka.

Whilst I’ve been a taphophile for over twenty years, like most people I’m also fascinated by historical events, locations and famous people who are no longer with us. Sri Lanka is blessed with a long and colourful history and there are endless sites and cemeteries to visit. I’ve written and spoken about some of these over the years and delight in taking people to see locations, churches and historical sites.

With so many other interesting, beautiful and amazing distractions for visitors on this tear drop island, it's easy to run out of time to explore the lesser known.

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The reality is that there is a bit of taphophile in most of us, but finding the time to visit sites is obviously not a high priority for many. To persuade my wife to join me on some of my visits I foolishly agreed that for every hour she spends with me in a cemetery I will spend twice as much time shopping with her.

So, having visited over a hundred countries in which I’ve had my taphophile moments, e.g. New Zealand, Namibia, India Jordan, Myanmar, Greece, Gibraltar, Argentina, Brazil Uruguay, the USA and more, you can you imagine how much shopping I have done.

Sri Lanka’s colourful history and its active multi-religious background and the colonial era has generated a lot of places of interest for an active taphophile. Some of the key locations on the island that I recommend visiting are:

  • The Garrison cemetery, Kandy

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  • Borella cemetery, Colombo, a historic feast
  • The burial place of Adam and Eve, Mannar, no excavation has taken place so some it's most likely a myth

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  • The British Commonwealth graves around the island, see my story on the young Baronet buried after the Japanese attack in WW2.

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  • Temples with centuries of history, massacres and more
  • 100s of churches with many having cemeteries, many reminders of those who served for their country etc.
  • Up country churches with interesting burial sites, planter's stories

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  • Tsunami memorials and post-war sites
  • Recent Wartime sites, memorials, battle locations (much of the LTTE history is being wiped out by the Government)

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  • Elephant Pass, Jaffna. Bravery against all odds.
  • World War two sites, intriguing stories. Diving to see HMS Hermes.
  • Victoria Park, Colombo with its history and remembrance

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  • An array of colonial forts, some with dark history

So, if you are a budding taphophile, enjoy history, remembrance, intrigue and heroes, join the Whinging Pome on a walk about.

Below are a few of my write ups:

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