Beijing 1987 - the start of a thirty three year journey

Beijing 1987 - the start of a thirty three year journey

Bruce Connolly 2020

Road scene near Friendship Hotel Haidian Beijing 1987

Arriving from Mongolia by train 33years ago, on that hot July afternoon in 1987, I would have three days to discover Beijing. It would a hectic time, considering the sheer size of the city, but soon I would be heading south, to the tropics, to Guangzhou. Initial impressions were of how different it felt compared to my limited preconceptions. Such thoughts occupied me as I sat at the rooftop bar of the Friendship Hotel (youyi binguan) in then suburban Haidian District. There, thinking over the complexities, indeed contradictions I had come across.

My schedule indicated Peking, but the train arrived at Beijing Railway Station. Unlike today, ‘Beijing’ was not commonly used in my Scottish homeland. Prior to 1958 with Wade-Giles system of transliteration, it was ‘Peking’ but after 1958, when China switched to Pinyin, it became ‘Beijing’. The latter pronounced closer to everyday Chinese. Returning to Scotland, talking of ‘Beijing’ I would be asked “Where?” Interestingly Peking University has kept its early name while the 3 letter code for Capital Airport remains as ‘PEK’. Beijing of course referring to its position as Capital of China, correctly translated as ‘Northern Capital’ reflecting its geographic position.

The ‘Friendship Hotel,’ was constructed in 1954 initially as accommodation for Russian and East European technocrats helping rebuild post 1949 China. Close to several leading universities, visiting academics and the few tourists would also reside there. ‘Friendship,’ came through the country’s hope for greater international collaboration and ties. It was a concept promoted by, amongst others, late Premier Zhou Enlai. 

While Beijing appeared considerably larger than expected, where I was staying was still partly countryside incorporating contrasts of rural-urban interaction.

My time short, I didn’t waste much on lengthy lunches or ‘Now you must have a rest’ - something I still hear! At every opportunity I would go outside walking, observing, smiling in response to endless “Hellos.” 

Zhongguancun South Street outside Friendship Hotel Haidian Beijing 1987

Directly opposite the hotel was an outdoor tree-shaded market. A bicycle cart carrying many marrows passed followed by a horse-drawn wagon stacked with bricks. This is today’s very busy Zhongguancun South Street leading towards Beijing’s high-tech innovation zone. How much the city has changed!

The market was an expanse of colourful vegetables, many unfamiliar. Indeed what made dining in Beijing so interesting were the range and quality of such produce. As I wandered around, traders calling me to look at their stalls, I was noticing the scene beyond. Close to the hotel stood older red brick, three or floor buildings associated with the universities, some dating back to early 20th century. Several universities in Haidian were relocated or expanded in what had been either former imperial gardens or royal residential retreats. Peking University, one such example, sits within particularly beautiful grounds.

Clusters of newer apartment blocks, up to 18 floors, rose from what had been agricultural plots. They reflected the city’s ongoing expansion. Post-1949, Mao Zedong wanted to push China rapidly towards industrialisation. That included Beijing. The city had been mainly low-rise where older areas remained often as a maze of grey-walled hutong alleys. The city followed the unwritten code then of no domestic or commercial buildings rising higher than the Forbidden City’s walls. Even today, within the central downtown areas, modern structures are usually horizontal rather than vertical. 

Industry grew mostly outside the walls, for example Chaoyang District where land would then be semi- rural. Around the factories and offices six floor, red brick walk-up apartments for workers and staff were constructed. Many remain today, the factories, mostly gone. 18 floor apartments, such as I was looking at behind the market, had internal elevators, the buildings generally dating from the early/mid-1980’s. Most were homes to people working in nearby state and city organizations. With my ongoing studies of Beijing I started delineating zones of development corresponding both to economic and social history including the massive post 1998 private housing growth. The latter vastly increasing the city’s geographic size.

Bicycles were still popular on Beijing's roads in 1987

The Friendship Hotel, located then in the suburbs, relatively lengthy bus journeys led to places of interest. I would sit close to the front, transfixed by the scenes unfolding, trying often unsuccessfully to capture scenes through my camera lens. It was all so different to any other city I had experienced up to that time. Beijing, certainly proving very interesting, particularly to me, a geographer.

Vehicle traffic relatively light, there was a quiet feeling, indeed little rush. Bicycles, were numerically prominent but nothing like the 9 million or so in the early 1970’s. Moving with the flow, at the same speed, nobody trying to race out of sequence, creating a sense of harmony. Traffic lights had separate signs for cyclists with police officers standing on circular platforms at busy crossroads. Newer roads were wide with separate bicycle lanes while metro stations had special parking areas for the bikes. Cycle repair men sat at the kerbside offering their services. All this making for great photography. To me, fascinating, the quietness only broken by cycle bells, reminding of a 1970’s description, ‘Beijing, the quietest rush hour in the world!’

Bicycle parking in Beijing 1987

A ‘must-visit’ was the Great Wall. Initially the route out from the city crossed wide agricultural plains, on tree-lined quiet roads passing villages and farmland producing acres of corn cobs. Technology was intermediate, limited mechanical alongside horse-hauled carts, even on the highways. 

Country roads Northern Beijing 1994

We entered the valley our train had descended the previous day from Badaling. I remember standing at the crest of the pass, looking up at the Wall rising along the slopes. I’m thinking how hot and humid it already felt. Climbing the many large and steep stone steps was slow, exhausting requiring repeated stops for cold drinks. Finally the summit watchtower, “Made it”, I thought. So had many others who were fascinated at my unexpected appearance. Where had I suddenly emerged from? Many shouts of ‘Hello’ or simply stares for few had previously seen a westerner.

The Great Wall of China Badaling 1987

Many people were there, from other provinces, on visits to Beijing organised through their work units (‘danwei’). The capital, a dream fulfilled, standing on the Wall obviously a treasured moment. Back down, near the bus park, rows of outdoor stalls provided the trinkets that would be taken back to their homes across China.

Gift stalls near the Great Wall at Badaling 1987

Over generations, many writings and classical paintings enhanced the Wall’s symbolism and role within the national culture. Sayings were attributed, particularly with Mao Zedong proclaiming through one of his poems, “He who has never been to the Great Wall is not a true man’. I then realised why so many were touching it which I also dutifully did.

The Wall has appeared on the rear of banknotes, on credit cards, it is an iconic symbol of China also visited by many Presidents from a host of countries including the US along with the British monarch. So many visitors have asked me to take them out there. Twice I escorted the Lord Provost (Mayor) of Glasgow, my city, to Badaling, explaining its construction, scale and so on. Indeed back in Scotland, giving talks about Beijing, it was always images of the Wall that produced most “oohs!”

Visitors at the Ming Tombs Beijing 1987

Nearby in Changipng District, are the Ming Tombs. Thirteen of 16 Ming emperors are buried there. While fascinating and on quite a grand scale however I was a bit jaded after the emotions and energy of being on the Wall, not able to fully appreciate the area’s significance.

That evening, thunderstorms broke over the city with resultant heavy seasonal downpours. This turned out to be really beneficial for next morning was perfect. Blue sky, lower temperatures and humidity, perfect for the walking that would follow. 

On the road to the Summer Palace Haidian Beijing 1987

The Summer Palace (yiheyuan) was relatively close to the hotel but what a contrast to the urban areas we had passed through. Once a summer retreat for imperial families, today it is a public park. The sheer size really got me. Centerpiece, Kunming Lake, overlooked by manmade Longevity Hill, was vast, occupying three quarters of the park. Sailing across its waters on a boat resembling an imperial barge, the view westwards was towards the pagoda on Jade Spring Hill (Yuquanshan) with the Fragrant Hills (Xiangshan) as a backdrop. As we floated across those calm waters in the direction of the famed Marble Boat Pavilion I was thinking this was a Beijing I never anticipated. Many people played around on rowing boats. Some on a day out, others on visits to Beijing, there was a general feeling of universal enjoyment.

Kunming Lake Summer Palace looking to Jade Spring Hill Beijing 1987

I strolled along paths through woodlands; walked the 700 metre Long Corridor decorated with mythical scenes; followed a stone-lined canal near the North Gate; coming upon hidden gardens. One I found incredibly beautiful, many lotus plants covered the waters, while around its tree-shaded shores were pavilions and teahouses.

Tranquility at the Summer Palace Beijing 1987

As I would learn, much of the architecture in traditional Qing-style was newish. The Palace and several other grand structures across a relatively large surrounding area had been destroyed or fire-razed by Anglo-French troops in 1860 and 1900. Utterly tragic and so needless!

Visitors to the Summer Palace Beijing 1987

That beautiful day ended with dinner at a delightful courtyard restaurant in Ritan Park, its name derived from the ceremonial ‘Altar of the Sun’ dating back to 1503. With a lake, pavilions, extensive history along with its unique Stone Boat Bar, the park has long been one of my favorites in Beijing.

An early expressway in Beijing 1987

My mental image of the city, apart from the Great Wall, was Tiananmen Gate with its massive overhanging portrait of Chairman Mao Zedong. Another ‘must see’ for visitors, many having photographs taken with that iconic image as background. However I never appreciated the sheer scale of what lay beyond the passageway I would follow - the Forbidden City (Gugong). The size, the complexity so vast, so intricate in craftsmanship, it was impossible for me to absorb in a morning’s visit. Trying to listen to my guide while capturing photo images, scribbling down notes was both exhausting and a little frustrating. One vast courtyard after another, a series of crimson walled gates, of pavilions where once emperors sat, dined or slept. The designs of balustrades, of yellow tiling, so much symbolism. 

Forbidden City Beijing 1987

The word ‘harmony’ kept appearing with this grand imperial palace laid out across a theoretical axis line running north to south through the early city. That line ultimately followed the passageway below Mao’s portrait. There were clearly marked paths where only the emperors could pass or be carried along. Interestingly, souvenir shops along the walking route gave away bottles of ice-cold Coca Cola! Appreciated in such summer heat!

Visiting the Forbidden City 1987

I emerged by the northern Divine Military Genius Gate (shunwumen). Ahead  rose Prospect Hill (jngshan), highest point in Beijing during the Ming Dynasty, offering stunning views over the Forbidden City. 

So much I had to try and take in. Thankfully, back in Scotland the following year, 1988, Bertolucci’s masterpiece, ‘The Last Emperor’ vividly depicted the grandeur of the Palace within the context of the story of Puyi. While much of the Palace and other magnificent structures across historic Beijing date from Ming Dynasty, it was initially confusing for me to appreciate the relationship between the Yuan, Ming and Qing followed by progression through the 21st century. Later study became essential, still learning!

Temple of Heaven Beijing 1987

Discovering Beijing’s major attractions under midsummer blue skies can be exhausting. So much walking and visiting within a short time. At the Temple of Heaven (Tiantan) that afternoon, initially I felt jaded. However heading south along the park’s axis increasingly held me in awe. Constructed during the same period as the Forbidden City by Ming Emperor Yongle around 1420. It was also as much a place to watch many local Beijingers who still go there daily for recreation and social gatherings. The chirping sounds from bird cages hanging from trees, I clearly recall. I tried to comprehend symbolism of buildings, altars and enclosures with themes of heaven and earth. It was a place of seasonal ceremonies and sacrifice for bountiful harvests. The most stunning building, the Hall for Prayer for Good Harvests (Qinian Dian). In 1987, visitors could then walk inside, today no, due to the sheer numbers passing through the grounds daily. Some years later, I would be living close by, at Yutingqiao, thinking what a spectacular backdrop to my every day life in Beijing.

Visitors to the Temple of Heaven Beijing 1987

During my university years, China was mostly closed to foreigners. In our academic library monthly copies of China Pictorial regularly appeared. There were the images of vast crowds, mostly dressed in a uniformity of colour and style. Standing in Tiananmen Square they would be facing the Gate that led through to the Forbidden City. Chairman Mao Zedong would be standing there, on the balcony, addressing the crowds. It was where on 1 October 1949 he had declared the foundation of the People’s Republic of China. They were images, classic images of Beijing from that period that were long ingrained on my mind.

Tiananmen Gate Beijing 1987

Walking along Guangchang East Road I cut across onto the Square, standing astride the previously mentioned axis line. Around me, families, visitors, in casual clothes enjoying a day out, having their photographs taken, presenting such a contrast to those images from my student days. Meanwhile groups were gathering around the flagpole where flew the National Flag of China. This was directly south from the ‘Gate of Heavenly Peace’ or Tiananmen. Vast crowds still gather at dawn or sunset to watch the ceremonial flag raising or lowering.  

Time for dinner, south of the Square at the famed Beijing roast duck (Beijing Kaoya) Quanjude Restaurant on Qianmen Dajie. Table-side performances by the chefs entertained diners who meanwhile tried to cope with fiery baijiu drinks! A fitting end to Beijing, unfortunately too short to take in so much the city. 

Before heading to the railway station, a shopping trip to the Friendship Store (Youyi Shangdian) in the Jianguo Embassy District. Such stores opened from the mid-1950’s in China’s large cities, catering mainly for diplomats and foreigners then working in the country, In 1987, the store already had a growing feeling of nostalgia for the way China had previously been. Foreign visitors still had to use ‘FEC’ or ‘Foreign Exchange Certificates’ that were exchanged for hard currency. Today the use of Renminbi with equal prices for everyone is thankfully universal.

Beijing, the city so different from expectations, I increasingly realised how little I had known. A fascination was developing for the city. It was different and had so many complexities and contrasts I was not expecting. It was also very friendly, relaxed and felt safe to walk around but much remained to discover, so much! The hutongs!

The Changing Face of Beijing 1987

1987 was nine years after the launch of Deng Xioaping’s policy of ‘Reform and Opening Up’. I could see transformation with modern buildings under construction; traffic increasing on city roads while taking over from bicycles; people dressed casually, even fashionable for that period. Yet, many traditions remained including simple street food stalls where crowds would have breakfast before heading to work. A few western bars and restaurants were opening, mainly for the expat community around Chaoyang but I had no time to search them out. However, Beijing was clearly a city in transition, slowly but happening..

I had a passion, a desire to return to Beijing, but when? In 1987 I could never have foreseen the city becoming my home, my base, where I would walk daily, photograph, write about and even create several thousand radio features/interviews based around this, the historic Northern Capital of China, Beijing.

To be continued…

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Bruce Connolly Photography