At the Beginning of 2025, the Fashion Industry Witnesses Its First Designer Brand Closure

On January 9, French designer brand Y/Project announced its official shutdown, marking the end of its 14-year journey. Founded in 2010 by Gilles Elalouf and Yohan Serfaty, the brand was renowned for its avant-garde silhouettes and innovative designs.

However, both founders passed away during the brand’s operation, and later, CEO Pascal Conte-Jodra and creative director Glenn Martens also resigned. These leadership changes led to severe financial difficulties. Despite entering bankruptcy proceedings, the company failed to find a suitable buyer and ultimately could not overcome its financial and structural challenges.

Gilles Elalouf 和 Yohan Serfaty

The Struggles of Independent Designer Brands

The history of designer brands dates back to the 19th century, when British designer Charles Frederick Worth established himself in Paris, designing for aristocrats. He was the first to sew his name into garments as a form of brand marketing, creating what is now considered the prototype of modern brand identity. Before that, the concept of a "designer" did not exist, and clothing production was largely the work of anonymous tailors and craftsmen.、

By the 1870s, Charles Frederick Worth had become a well-known figure in the fashion world. The Metropolitan Museum of Art in New York noted that he elevated the status of designers above that of tailors and seamstresses. Initially, "designer fashion" referred strictly to garments created by specific designers, but over time, the term expanded to include designs authorized by companies, often symbolizing creativity and exclusivity.

In Luxury Strategy, author Jean-No?l Kapferer explained that designer brands are typically named after their founders. While their core customers often come from the mass market, most designer brands also create high-end collections targeted at affluent consumers.

During the late 20th and early 21st centuries, designer brands thrived, fueled by the rise of celebrity culture, globalization, and increasing luxury demand. This period, often referred to as the golden era of independent designers, saw the emergence of legendary figures such as Alexander McQueen, John Galliano, Helmut Lang, Martin Margiela, Tom Ford, Vivienne Westwood, and Rei Kawakubo, all of whom defined the era with their bold creativity and unique aesthetics.

Several of these designers—such as McQueen, Ford, and Galliano—gained immense popularity, attracting the attention of luxury conglomerates like LVMH and Kering. Some were appointed creative directors of major fashion houses (Galliano at Givenchy and Dior, Ford at Gucci, Margiela at Hermès), while others saw their independent brands acquired (McQueen by Kering, Helmut Lang by Prada). However, this trend also signaled the growing dominance of luxury conglomerates, which gradually eroded the independence of designer brands.

The Rising Challenges for Small Designer Brands

Today, independent fashion brands face mounting challenges, including delayed payments from retailers, shrinking distribution channels, political and economic instability, and the lasting effects of the pandemic.

For instance, in the UK, Brexit has further isolated the country’s fashion industry from the European market, forcing many independent designers to seek opportunities elsewhere. Olya Kuryshchuk, founder and editor-in-chief of fashion media platform 1 Granary, noted: "Fashion is an ecosystem—everything is interconnected, and there is always a chain reaction."

In 2023, London-based designer Roksanda Ilin?i? announced the sale of her namesake brand Roksanda to The Brand Group (TBG) due to "recent market turbulence." This highlights that even when founders remain involved, many brands face unprecedented survival pressures.

As market conditions continue to evolve, small independent designer brands must navigate increasingly complex and challenging economic landscapes. While some struggle despite their founders’ presence, the departure of a brand’s visionary leader often results in a loss of creativity and identity, making long-term sustainability even more uncertain. The critical question remains:

How can these brands carve out new paths and overcome crises when their original founders are no longer leading the way?