Before Progress, Have We Missed the Basics?

For over two decades, plastic recycling has been a central focus in the EU’s waste management agenda. Yet, despite all the effort, the numbers paint a sobering picture. In 2023, Europe processed 54 million tons of plastic, but only 13.4% came from post-consumer recycled plastic. Out of 32.3 million tons of collected plastic waste, just 26.9% was recycled, less than a third. Nearly 50% was incinerated, and 23.5% ended up in landfills. (Source: EU Plastics Recyclers’ Roadmap: For a competitive & innovative industry)

At first glance, it might seem like progress is being made. But these figures highlight an uncomfortable truth: simply collecting more waste is not enough.

Why? Because recycling isn’t just about collection or legislation. It relies on three critical pillars:

1. Environmental Impacts – Does recycling actually reduce our footprint compared to virgin production?
2. Loop Potential – Can materials flow effectively through circular systems and be recycled multiple times?
3. Efficiency – Do we have the technologies and infrastructure to make this happen at scale?

Right now, the evidence suggests that we haven’t gotten any of these in place. And without them, it’s no surprise that recycling isn’t delivering on its potential.

If Recycling Plastic Is Hard, Textiles Are Harder

If recycling plastics, one of the more standardized materials, is this challenging, what does that mean for textiles? According to the Circularity Gap Report by Circle Economy, the textile industry is just 0.3% circular.

Textiles add another layer of complexity. Post-consumer textile waste includes a vast mix of fibers, blends, and treatments, making it far harder to process than plastics like bottles or packaging. If we’re struggling this much with plastic, it’s difficult to imagine how we’ll handle the added challenges of textiles.

What’s Really Holding Us Back?

The industry often points to “lack of demand” as the main barrier to scaling recycling. But here’s where things don’t quite add up. Many brands have built their 2030 sustainability strategies around recycled materials. If demand is truly an issue, how are these brands planning to meet their goals?

Alternatively, if demand exists but recycled materials are considered “too expensive,” why was that not anticipated? Almost no new material adopted in history has been cheap at the outset. Price challenges are no surprise; they are an inherent part of scaling any new solution.

Another argument often heard is that legislation, such as taxing virgin materials or mandating recycled content, will solve these problems. While helpful, these policies are unlikely to materialize anytime soon. Companies pinning their hopes on such measures might be setting themselves up for disappointment.

Which brings us to the real issue. We are missing the systems, infrastructure, and evidence needed to make recycling work effectively at scale. Without addressing these foundational gaps, conversations about price, demand, or policy feel premature, like building a house without a solid foundation.

The Missing Link

When I speak with people about recycling, I often ask:

Does using recycled materials actually have a lower footprint than producing virgin ones?

More often than not, I get silence or a confident “yes,” but without any data to back it up.

Optimism is important, but so is scrutiny. If the environmental impact of recycling is expected to improve at scale, by how much? And how long will it take? Without clear answers, how do we measure progress or even success?

It feels like the industry is reluctant to confront these hard questions. But how can we solve a problem we won’t fully acknowledge?

Where Do We Go From Here?

I believe that recycling has potential, but only if the right systems and processes are put in place. If we continue with the current approach, we risk falling 5 to 10 years behind where we think we should be. For recycling to stand a chance at becoming truly effective, we would need to:

• Invest in advanced sorting and preprocessing technologies to improve efficiency and output quality.
• Be transparent about environmental impacts, providing robust evidence that recycled materials are genuinely better than virgin ones.
• Engage in honest, open conversations about the challenges, rather than focusing only on the opportunities.

Recycling is often presented as a straightforward solution, but it is far from guaranteed to work. Without addressing foundational issues such as gaps in technology, systems, and understanding, it risks remaining a concept that never truly delivers on its promise.

What is your take? How do we create a smarter, more realistic path forward for recycling?

Disclaimer: All views and opinions expressed on this profile, or in any posts, are purely my own and do not represent the opinions or positions of my employer.