The Beauty Ingredient Agenda: February 2023
To better help R&D and marketing teams in their product innovation journeys,?Global Cosmetic Industry?has launched a monthly series breaking down not only the latest ingredients, but also the trends, market data and relevant claims those technologies respond to. From consumer search data to advancements in sustainable chemistry, this regular bulletin will help beauty professionals scope out their next differentiating breakthrough.
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Top-trending Beauty Ingredients in Search
Spate?recently assessed ingredient search volume alongside the beauty category, unearthing some of the sector’s fastest-growing trends. Per 12-month search data ending October 2022, Spate found that rosemary, tretinoin and minoxidil trended amid rising interest in addressing hair loss solutions. At the same time, consumers sought natural hair styling concepts, leading to an uptick in "sea salt" searches.
In skin care, "snail mucin" searches jumped amid a rise in interest in dewy skin, while clascoterone trended in searches related to both acne and hair loss. Finally, Spate found that tepezcohuite trended in searches related to psoriasis and acne.
Hair Care’s Top-trending Ingredients
Treatment-related hair ingredients have dominated searches, per Spate data. The most queried hair growth ingredients included rosemary oil, pumpkin seed oil and minoxidil.
Meanwhile, consumers searched ketoconazole for the treatment of dandruff and fungal infections. Salicylic acid also spiked in searches related to dandruff and scalp treatments in general. Among shampoo and dry shampoo searches, oat dominated, likely related to its scalp-soothing properties.
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All Things Microalgae
According to Trendalytics data, consumer searches for microalgae materials recently increased 14% year-over-year, while social engagement has risen 1%. Top associated benefits include hydration, brightening and anti-aging.
The rise illustrates the rising interest in ocean-derived innovation. Suppliers are stepping up with new ingredient tech in the space. For instance, Silab’s Algophagyl (INCI:?Chlorella sorokiniana?extract) helps preserve the skin’s equilibrium and corrects the functioning of mitochondria, which can malfunction in reaction to stress. The ingredient was tested on Caucasian and Asian volunteers; results showed the ingredient rendered the skin glowing, with an overall improved quality of skin, per Silab.
Meanwhile, IFF/Lucas Meyer Cosmetics’ IBR-SolAge (INCI:?Simmondsia chinensis?(jojoba) seed oil (and)?Dunaliella salina?extract) is an oil-soluble extract of pink microalgae that is sustainably grown in the Mediterranean. The ingredient was developed to mimic the algae’s ability to withstand solar irradiation, providing photoprotective mechanisms to create anti-glycation and anti-aging skin care and fight what the company refers to as?"glyc-aging."
In applications, the technology inhibits the formation of advanced glycation end products (AGEs); removes AGEs already formed by degrading glycated proteins; and inhibits the AGE-mediated signalling cascade.
According to the company, when tested on a solar-challenged population, the application of IBR-SolAge reduced the accumulation of AGEs in the skin, improved skin elasticity, reduced skin roughness, and decreased the appearance of wrinkles, red spots and UV spots.
Elsewhere, Symrise’s SymControl Scalp, based on a microalgae from the Mediterranean Sea, is designed to protect the hair and scalp from environmental stress and damage from UV radiation, restoring hair shine and rendering it healthier. The ingredient comprises a combination of?Tetraselmis suecica?algae and naturally occurring mannitol.
In applications, the ingredient has been found to offer a clean sensation on the hair and scalp by effectively normalizing sebum production and extending time between washings. SymControl Scalp is 99.4% natural in origin and is COSMOS-approved, halal and kosher-certified. The microalgae is produced using sunlight and carbon dioxide.
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Awesome - Thank you for sharing.
Founder & CEO at IMARA?S BEAUTY // Beauty Independent Brand Builder of the Year Finalist | Business Vancouver Forty Under 40 | Ernst & Young Entrepreneur of the Year Finalist
2 年Looks great. Would love to take part re: innovation in nutricosmetic ingredients.