Balancing Act: The Art Of Wine Curation With Lola’s Mon Ditbunjong??

Seasoned sommelier and manager at elevated beachside Sydney affair Lola’s Italian & Bar, Mon Ditbunjong (ex-Ragazzi, Dear Sainte Eloise, Gerald's Bar) shares his journey in the wine industry. Mon's expertise lies in curating wine selections that balance personal passion and customer preference. Here, he also sheds light on authentic connections, some underrated drops and the important role of thoughtful design in creating a successful venue.??

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Talk us through your early years and background??

I found myself in this industry at a reasonably young age. I was determined not to go to university as my parents had pushed me to do and found myself working in a restaurant in Canberra. That is where I got exposed to delicious food and delicious wine for the first time. And I was like: ‘oh, this is fun and enjoyable’. And there was something about it that was just pleasurable and inspiring. That is where it all began for me.??

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How do you explain the role of a sommelier??

He distils a world of wine into something that makes sense to a venue and the guests in a way that is approachable and joyful and pleasurable, rather than complicated and confusing. When it comes to curating a wine selection, you begin with what you're familiar with and what you personally appreciate. There’s an inherent need for authenticity in this process. You must genuinely believe in the wines you are putting forward. On the other hand, it's also essential to consider what appeals to people, what they desire, and what they will truly relish. Striking the right balance between your personal passion and the preferences of your patrons is key.?

How do you create an appealing narrative via concept a wine list??

When it comes to picking wines for a restaurant, you've got to match them with the vibe of the place, the style, and, of course, the kind of food it serves. At Lola's, for instance, it's all about that Italian flavour, and strangely enough, I'm really into Italian wines. Lola's is a laid-back spot right by the beach that's open year-round, so you've got to have your basics covered—like cool white wines and dry rosés. But there's also room to mix things up and offer some interesting choices within that framework.?

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How do you connect with wineries??

For international wineries, it's often a bit more distant. I work with their importers, have previous experience with their wines, and generally rely on them for communication. We often interact directly through Instagram. With local wineries, it's a more personal process. I meet with the winemakers, some of whom I've known for a long time. These relationships keep evolving as we continue to do tastings.?

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Any customer dos or don’ts when ordering??

Always order wine. Always taste the wine with an open mind but never accept it if you think it's unpalatable. Enjoy it. Wine is for enjoyment. Never feel self-conscious, never let the som boss you around. He should only be there as a guide.?

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Do you prefer local or imported wines? General thoughts on the Australian wine industry???

I appreciate imported wines, but they aren't the sole focus. Currently, the wine list I handle leans towards imports, mainly because it aligns with the style and theme of Italian restaurants, where Italian wines take the spotlight. That said, there are a lot of excellent Australian wines. The Australian wines on the list here are really great examples of either somewhat classic Australian winemaking stories, or really interesting expressions of Italian grapes grown in Australia.?

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Any trends or underrated wines??

Absolutely. Kevin McCarthy and Kathleen Quealy have a label called MDI. They work with grapes from Mildura, specifically from two vineyards. Some of the great vineyards cultivating Italian grape varieties in this country are producing wines that are truly experimental, precise, affordable, and delightful. This is a recent project, and in my opinion, these wines represent some of the finest beverages emerging from this region. They utilise extended skin contact and grape varieties and are truly exploring the possibilities of Italian grape varieties in the hot, arid region of Mildura.?

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What are the ingredients that make for a successful venue? ?

It sounds simple, but hospitality - that's the name of the game. Hospitality is about generosity, flexibility, warmth and being welcoming. It has to come through the food. People can feel it if food doesn't have love behind it. The same goes for service and an experience. The room should feel comfortable, intriguing and intimate. It is a combination of what comes out of the kitchen, how the front of house staff acts and how people feel when they walk in. You want people to feel welcome and comfortable.?

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How does design fit within this equation??

Personally, I can't stand restaurants that are overly bright. So, when it comes to design, it's a crucial aspect for a restaurant. It is the canvas where you showcase great food and create memorable experiences. The design should offer guests the choice to be either visible or enjoy some privacy in a cozy atmosphere. Good lighting is key to making people feel comfortable and relaxed, allowing them to fully enjoy their time.?

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Do you remember the first time a wine really blew you away???

I do. I was about 18 back in Canberra at this joint called Cafe de la Piazza, and I had a glass of McWilliams Margaret River Chardonnay, which is a reasonably commercial, oak bomb of a chardonnay. And I thought, ‘God that's delicious! What the fuck is that?’. And that started the whole journey. I still have a soft spot for a nice buttery oak bomb of a Chardonnay.??

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What does working in hospitality mean for you??

The social side is really wonderful. I've met some of my best friends, some of my greatest lovers, and some of my biggest enemies all through a restaurant. It's quite a delicious combination of things that can all happen at once.?

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What advice would you give to someone wanting to become a sommelier???

Taste and learn as much as you can and find yourself a mentor. There are plenty of people out there. Find someone that you trust and who trusts you. You should also trust your own taste. Everything about wine is particularly subjective. There is a whole science and facts, but I think the magic is in the subjective details. Taste is a personal thing, a personal feeling. Explore the strange space that is outside the factual zone. That's where the magic is.??