Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Review

Let’s take a look at the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Automatic 41mm. An eye-catching wristwatch filled with the finest timepieces, yet simple for the average person, this watch is sure to become an essential part of your collection.

No one is as rich as a wrist full of flashy, ostentatious decorations. While a wrist may stand out and stand out from the crowd, it doesn’t exactly project the refined image of generations of wealth.

Anyone who appreciates the craftsmanship and engineering involved in the long tradition of haute horlogerie knows that it’s not the precious gems on a watch that gives it its value.

History

Founded in 1875 and still in the hands of its founding family, Audemars Piguet is renowned for developing exquisitely refined haute horlogerie. Widely regarded as one of the most prestigious brands in the world, the company is particularly famous for creating the Royal Oak, which has emerged as Audemars Piguet’s flagship model.

When it was launched in 1972, it was the world’s first luxury watch made of stainless steel, marking a major advancement in the art of watchmaking. AP has been at the forefront of innovation for almost its entire history, introducing many world firsts over the decades.

Audemars Piguet Royal Oak Selfwinding Review

The house of Audemars Piguet produced its most iconic watch, the Royal Oak, in 1970. According to the legendary designer, Gerald Genta, it took him just one night to create the original sketch of the design once it was presented to him. The inspiration for the iconic design came from a vintage diving helmet with exposed screws.

One of the things that made waves about this watch was that it was the first luxury sports watch made of stainless steel, something that was completely unheard of at the time. The Royal Oak was designed in 1970, but it wasn’t actually produced until 1972.

The Royal Oak was groundbreaking in that it focused the attention of watch collectors on the watchmaking itself, and not on the precious metals used.

In some ways, they’ve made it very clear that what you’re paying for isn’t the materials used to display it, but the excellence of their watchmaking. Of course, a stainless steel watch will always be cheaper than an identical watch made of precious metal, like this high-end 18kt rose gold model.

Design

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak has a distinctly British military flavor, from its name derived from the Royal Navy’s HMS Royal Oak battleship to its octagonal bezel.

When the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak was released, some speculated that the bezel was inspired by the portholes of the Royal Navy’s fleet, but Gerald Genta has since set the record straight, stating that the shape was actually inspired by the helmets worn by deep-sea divers of the time.

With its close ties to British naval history, it’s no surprise that the AP Royal Oak is often in high demand among ex-servicemen looking to buy a luxury watch. However, the model has become a favorite with many luxury watch enthusiasts thanks to its accuracy, high-end materials, iconic design, and the potential to be an investment for those who later want to sell their luxury watch.

Case and Dial

The Royal Oak is named after three historic warships of the British Royal Navy built in the early 19th century. The naval inspiration of the name is also reflected in the shape of the case and bezel, which are shaped like a ship’s porthole.

The Royal Oak’s shape is unique, sporty and elegant, with an octagonal shape and hexagonal screws surrounding the bezel. No watch is more recognizable on someone’s wrist than the Royal Oak.

It is one of those watches that you can tell it’s a Royal Oak at first glance. The signature lugs, which are seamlessly integrated from the case to the strap, immediately reveal the watch’s identity.

The pink gold version takes the sporty character of the watch to a whole new level of elegance and luxury. AP’s pink gold is simply beautiful, with the perfect balance of warmth and richness. Its appearance changes depending on the type of light surrounding it and the angle at which it hits the surface, illuminating every edge and corner. This variation really shows the dynamic nature of the watch.

The different finishes also contribute to the dynamic play of light as the treatment changes between brushed and polished finishes. The polished outer and inner edges of the bezel and other edges not only show this, but also give the entire watch a more luxurious and luxurious look and feel.

I have heard that many AP watches, including the Royal Oak Offshores, do not have this polished inner bezel. The tips of the hour markers are mirrored on a mirrored surface, extending their appearance on the dial.

The case is made of a solid piece to ensure better water resistance and is a “state-of-the-art engineering vault case.” The watch also features an anti-glare sapphire crystal, a caseback, and a screw-down crown with a hexagonal profile, further enhancing the sporty design. The case and all its details strike the perfect balance between elegance and luxury, as well as robustness and prominence.

Movement

The 37mm self-winding Royal Oak is equipped with AP’s exceptional in-house movement, the caliber 3120, which is also used in the 39mm and 41mm Royal Oaks. It has hour, minute, central seconds and date functions. Below is a brief specification of the movement.

The first thing that catches my eye when looking at the 3120 is the beautifully engraved rotor, made entirely of 22K gold. The decorations on either side of the central AP logo are the Audemars Piguet family crest. What’s interesting about this rotor is its shape and the angle of its arch, which makes it appear smaller than most.

Most movements have a rotor that has an arch of close to 180 degrees. The 3120 has a smaller arch to compensate for its heavier solid gold construction. The edges of the rotor have a gentle curve that counteracts the considerable visual weight. It has a massive presence, but is well-balanced and proportioned given its size and design.

The rest of the movement’s design reflects the same mastery of balance and proportion. Measuring 26.6mm in diameter, the AP manages to fit a significant amount of material into a small space. All of the basic structural components, such as the bridges and plates, appear to be made from solid blocks of steel rather than thin sheets.

The movement also features a balance and barrel that are larger for its size, a feature that enhances the watch’s performance. Peeking behind the balance wheel and bridges, you can see the perlage finish on the baseplate.

There’s nothing spectacular about the finish and decoration; the beauty of this movement lies in its balance and exquisite proportions. You can read more about the 3120 in our excellent movement analysis review here .

Strap and fit

The 37mm self-winding Royal Oak in rose gold is presented on a brown hand-stitched “large square scale” alligator strap with an 18kt pink gold AP folding clasp. The Royal Oak (and the Offshore) are not easy watches for those with small wrists.

Men with smaller wrists can now opt for the smaller Royal Oak, which may fit better. Women with larger wrists can opt for the larger “men’s” style watch in the 37mm Royal Oak.

I found the watch to be much larger than it should be. The lugs and the top and bottom of the case extend so much that the 37mm feels more like a 41mm or 42mm.

The AP Royal Oak is a case-heavy watch, so if you’re not used to it, it can be a little uncomfortable if the watch doesn’t fit properly. For the most part, the Royal Oaks are very comfortable to wear, thanks to the integrated lug construction that allows for a seamless transition from case to strap.

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Conclusion

The Audemars Piguet Royal Oak combines classic design with modern engineering. As far as luxury watches go, it’s definitely on the more minimalist side of the spectrum, but that’s not entirely a bad thing.

Minimalist watches tend to go well with a variety of outfits, so the Royal Oak stands out for those looking for a watch for formal, smart-casual, and casual occasions.

If you’re looking to buy a luxury watch, the Audemars Piguet Royal Oak is definitely a good investment. This model can command between $50,000 and $100,000 on the secondary market, depending on condition and provenance.

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