Analysis on the development of BB cream and CC cream②

Different skin feeling formula design

(1) Oil phase selection of refreshing BB cream

Choice of oil: mainly use oil with high volatility, low viscosity and low polarity, such as: isododecane, isohexadecane, and isononyl isononanoate. Avoid excessive use of sticky, highly polar oils, such as: pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, etc.

Selection of silicone oil: The content of silicone oil with high volatility and low viscosity in the formula should be increased, such as: cyclic silicone oil D5, D6; low viscosity dimethyl silicone oil and octyl polydimethylsiloxane, etc.

However, it is also necessary to pay attention to the combination of a small amount of moisturizing and highly polar oils in the formula, and add some moisturizing ingredients such as milk sodium hyaluronate and betaine in an appropriate amount. This can increase its moisturization and fit, and avoid excessive refreshing of the product, resulting in a dry makeup effect and prone to floating powder. At the same time, it can also improve the fineness, gloss and stability of the paste.

(2) Oil phase selection of moisturizing BB cream

Oil selection: The content of oils with low volatility, high viscosity and high polarity should be increased in the formula. Such as: caprylic/capric triglyceride, hexyl laurate, cetyl palmitate.

Silicone oil selection: increase the content of silicone oil with low volatility and high viscosity. Add appropriate amount of phenyl silicone oil, alkyl modified silicone oil, etc.

Addition of esters: Appropriate use of viscous, moisturizing, high polarity, and large molecular weight branched-chain esters. Such as pentaerythritol tetraisostearate, polyglyceryl-2 triisostearate, hydrogenated polyisobutene, etc.

Addition of soft lipids: Add appropriate amount of soft fat raw materials with better sticking properties, such as shea butter, jojoba fats, etc.

Addition of moisturizing ingredients: Some moisturizing ingredients are added in an appropriate amount to the formula, such as betaine, PCA-Na, ceramide, etc.

Considering that a large amount of moisturizing oil contained in the formula will bring a certain sticky feeling, it is necessary to add a small amount of refreshing, high volatility, low viscosity oil and silicone oil. In addition, adding an appropriate amount of silicon powder, nylon powder, etc. can increase the air permeability of the product and improve the feeling of application.

(3) Influencing factors of elongation

The ductility of the product refers to the spreading performance of the product during use. Good products are easy to spread and apply, and also bring consumers a good experience of use. The extensibility of the formula needs to consider the following factors comprehensively.

System viscosity: On the premise of ensuring the stability of the product, appropriately reducing the viscosity of the product can improve the ductility of the product. The methods that can be used include: reducing the percentage of water phase in the formula, using a thickener with a refreshing skin feeling, using waxy raw materials with a low melting point that can be dissolved with a slight external force at the skin surface temperature, etc.

The influence of oil on the ductility: The selected oil and silicone oil have the characteristics of small contact angle with the skin and easy spreading. Use oils with more straight chains, and avoid using too many thick, branched, and larger molecular weight oils.

The influence of emulsifiers on extensibility: In addition to the combination with oil, the extensibility of the formula should also consider the refreshing degree of emulsifiers when selecting emulsifiers. For example, P 135 (PEG-30 dipolyhydroxystearate) has good emulsifying oil performance, but its skin feels sticky. PEG-10 Dimethicone has good emulsification ability of silicone oil and has good refreshment.

Functional powder: properly add spherical powder to the formula, such as PMMA, nylon-12, etc. It can reduce the friction resistance during application, so that the product has better extension and spreading performance.

Others: Add the following moisturizing and moisturizing ingredients such as sodium hyaluronate, polyols, etc. to the water phase, which can reduce the astringent feeling caused by the product being too refreshing, thereby improving the extensibility of the product.

This issue will stop here for everyone, and the next issue will explain makeup effect design. Welcome more people to pay attention to our Zhuhai Baoli Foam Spray Pump Co., Ltd.

Jacky Hui-Senior Sales Representative

Phone: +86-13727873996?、+853-63198682

whatsApp:+853-63198682

Website: https://en.zhuhaibaoli.com/

E-mail: [email protected]

P.O.BOX: 519085

Address: No. 196, Nazhou Second Village, Tangjiawan Town, Xiangzhou District,

Zhuhai City, Guangdong Province, China