Anafi - A Cycladic exile and a distant island community with a rich political and migrational history

Anafi is one of those islands that is often overlooked and bypassed. Southerly in the group of Cycladic islands and often not too easily accessible by ferry, especially outside the main tourist season.

From the first glance a mountainous, bleak, and barren place, and with no mass tourism industry, not the first island of choice for the ones not already familiar with this special place.

This article by Michael House from the non-profit publishing venture The Hubris (https://weeklyhubris.com/subscribe-to-weekly-hubris/) provides an excellent introduction to Anafi. Geography, landscape, history, practical information:

Apart from being a both thorough and informative read, the article opens the door to the ethnographic work of the British anthropologist Margaret Kenna.

Dr. Margaret Kenna, a professor from the University of Wales, conducted an in-depth study of Anafi back in the 1960s. Margaret Kenna's doctoral research centered on the inheritance traditions, dowry systems, and rituals of the island's inhabitants. The subsequent decade saw her investigating the islanders' migration trends, and in the 1980s, she examined the effects of the budding tourism industry.

The living conditions on this tiny Greek island during the 1960s were far from ideal. Traveling on rough mule paths, Dr. Kenna relied on her own two feet for transportation. She fetched water from a deep well, baked bread in an open-air oven fueled by thorny bushes she collected herself. Her evenings were spent typing under the faint glow of a paraffin lamp as electricity wasn't introduced until 1974. She endured sunburns in summer, chilblains in winter, and was continually plagued by fleas. Even her decision to wear pants for warmth caused quite a stir among the locals.

In 1988, Dr. Kenna was invited to a family home where she discovered a treasure trove of historical artifacts. Over 160 glass and celluloid negatives, dating from 1935 to 1941, were hidden behind a secret wall in a rented property. These negatives captured the lives of political exiles. The archive was lost when the exiles were relocated to Athens during the Italian occupation. It was only rediscovered when children stumbled upon it in a derelict house, along with minute books and various political memorabilia. This digital archive, available online, possibly represents the most comprehensive depiction of life on a small Greek island during that time. It includes images of people bathing, picnicking, celebrating festivals, participating in weddings, and attending funerals. These scenes may seem familiar to current visitors of Anafi, who can still recognize many of the depicted landmarks.

A Utopia in Exile

Margaret Kenna used the archive and wrote about the political exiles on Anafi in what she called A Utopia in Exile:

Greece has a long history of civil war, political persecution and exile. The story of the colony on Anafi that Margaret Kenna took on is one of the very interesting ones.

The Forgotten Community of Exiles: Anafi Under the Metaxas Dictatorship

In the tapestry of modern Greek history, the Metaxas dictatorship from 1936 to 1941 is a stark patch of darkness that is hard to forget. This period was marked by extreme authoritarianism and political repression, an era where dissent was punishable by exile. The tiny island of Anafi, far removed from the mainland, served as a place of confinement for those who dared to challenge the Metaxas regime. This unassuming speck in the Aegean Sea, filled with rugged terrain and sparse vegetation, witnessed the birth of an unlikely community during one of Greece's most turbulent periods.

The Unwanted Paradise

Anafi, a mere 12 square miles in area and with a local population that barely surpassed a few hundred, suddenly found itself host to political exiles during the Metaxas dictatorship. These exiles, mostly comprised of left-wing activists, politicians, and intellectuals, were perceived as threats to the right-wing regime and banished from their homes. The island was chosen for its remoteness and lack of facilities, a place where dissenters could be isolated and silenced.

The Life of Exiles

The exiles in Anafi lived in austere conditions. Basic amenities were in short supply, and the harsh Aegean climate compounded their misery. Their accommodations were rudimentary at best; many lived in small, overcrowded shacks scattered around the island.

But human spirit has an uncanny way of triumphing over adversity. In the face of hardship, the exiles on Anafi managed to establish a semblance of society. They shared whatever resources they had, cultivated small plots of land, and even established educational spaces where intellectuals among them would give lectures and hold discussions. This spirit of resilience and solidarity gave birth to a unique community, an enclave of freedom and intellect amid a period of fierce repression.

The Political Landscape of the Island

In the midst of these struggles, the exiles turned Anafi into a microcosm of Greek politics. They conducted secret meetings, held political debates, and even published underground newspapers. They were not merely surviving; they were continuing their fight against the Metaxas regime, albeit in a different way.

Despite the surveillance and control exerted by the regime, this exile community fostered a thriving cultural and intellectual life. Their shared plight bonded them in a way that transcended political or ideological differences. Anafi became a breeding ground for resistance against the dictatorship, a beacon of defiance amidst the relentless waves of the Aegean.

The Legacy of Exile

The community of exiles on Anafi existed only for a few years, disappearing with the fall of the Metaxas regime and the onset of World War II. However, its legacy lives on in the collective memory of the Greek people. Their struggle is a testament to the indomitable human spirit and the pursuit of freedom and justice.

The story of Anafi's exiles during the Metaxas dictatorship serves as a reminder that even in the darkest times, there can be pockets of resistance and hope. Today, the island stands as a symbol of endurance and a testament to the power of community. While the beauty of Anafi's landscapes may have once been marred by the presence of political exiles, the spirit of those inhabitants continues to echo through its hills and valleys, a timeless narrative of resilience and defiance.

Another connection - Anafi in Athens

Anafiotika: an Island on the Akropolis in Athens

Anafiotika is a small, scenic neighborhood in Athens, Greece. This picturesque district is nestled under the northeastern side of the Acropolis hill, close to the district of Plaka. The unique aspect of Anafiotika lies in its architectural resemblance to the Cycladic style, particularly that of the Greek island of Anafi, hence the name "Anafiotika."

The connection between Anafi and Anafiotika began in the 19th century, specifically during the reign of Otto, the first King of Greece (1832–1862). Following the Greek War of Independence, Athens became the new capital of Greece in 1834. The city was underdeveloped and lacked skilled construction workers. Therefore, builders were needed for the city's reconstruction and expansion.

Many skilled stonemasons and builders from Anafi, known for their expertise in constructing houses in the traditional Cycladic architecture, were invited to come to Athens to help with the city's construction needs.

The Anafiotes who moved to Athens to work were given a plot of land at the base of the Acropolis, a place where they built their houses following the architectural style of their home island, which they were most familiar with. This resulted in the creation of the Anafiotika neighborhood. Its white-washed houses, narrow steps, and blue details bear a striking resemblance to the Anafi island, bringing a piece of the Cyclades into the heart of Athens.

In a very interesting academic article by Margaret Kenna from 1995, she aims to debunk some prevalent misconceptions about Anafiotika. It is apparent that the area has undergone significant social and geographical transformations. Contrary to a common theme suggesting a long-standing resident population, Anafiotika is, in reality, a district populated by immigrants. The architecture does not exclusively mirror the style of the presumed island settlers. Instead, there is a blend of designs, incorporating both urban and rural elements, as well as those from the islands. According to the framework provided by Lévi-Strauss, Anafiotika has served as a significant conceptual tool. It has been symbolically used to represent the resilient Greek spirit, the stark realities of the modern world in contrast to classical past aspirations, and the grotesque distortions that can mar the true essence of beauty.

Listen to an interview with Margaret Kenna telling about her work on Anafi here:

Photo series from Anafi

The cultural organisation and platform The Greek Foundation has been publishing a couple of interesting and beautiful features and photo series from Anafi.

The first one by the photographer Yiannis Ampatziadis, capturing the unique and ethereal atmosphere of the island:?

The other a very personal series of impressions by Pinelopi Gerasimou:

The photographer Anna Sulte took these photos on a trip from Santorini:

Further reading

The official website of Anafi island:

The biennial Phenomenon project for contemporary art:

A story about difficult ferry services and shady contracts:

Mobile Medical Units - Anafi

Disclaimer: The article has been written in a process combining academic and journalistic material together with personal research and supported by ChatGPT.