An American in Piedmont Chapter 1: Living the Dream
Have you ever had the dream to move to another country, buy that old farmhouse, restore it, live sustainably, and own a vineyard? I know I have!
I imagine that in your mind’s eye, the entire process is seamless, bathed in sunshine, and you are surrounded by delicious, local food while sipping on the fruits of your labor. As with most things, the reality can be different. The dream can be fraught with challenges along the way. I’m going to tell you a story. The story is about a courageous family who had such a dream and made it a reality. The Isyk-Coles family - Traci, Graham and Isabella - not only live their dream, they have overcome the hardships that are an inherent part of it. First, we will learn about their journey and the not-so-easy path they followed to owning their Italian vineyards. Then, throughout the year, we will learn about their year-round work, as well as the seasons and culture of their home in the beautiful Langhe region of Piedmont, Italy.?
Prior to purchasing their vineyard in 2005, Traci and Graham lived in Munich. They had planned to eventually retire to Italy, but this didn’t mean simply retiring to Lake Garda and living out their days with other expatriots. Their retirement plan revolved around starting a business, a vineyard.
Traci and Graham looked at several wine regions in Italy, you know, the usual suspects, Tuscany, Umbria, and Veneto, but they didn’t fall in love. During a business trip to Lyon, the pair decided to drive from Lyon to Piedmont. It was November, therefore cold and foggy. Regardless, they both instantly fell in love with Piedmont. They loved the originality of it all, the wine, the food, and the landscape. They made quick work and put a list together of what they wanted in a property.?
While on another business trip, Graham picked up a magazine and found an advertisement of a beautiful stone Italian house in the back real estate section. Appointments to see the stone house, along with several others nearby, were quickly scheduled. After visiting the big stone house, they passed a smaller house nearby with amazing views surrounded by abandoned moscato vineyards. In that instant, they knew they had found their Italian home. The pair purchased the big stone house along with the smaller house with the views and didn’t look back.
Traci and Graham’s Italian home is in the small town of Santo Stefano Belbo, in the province of Cuneo, in the Langhe region of Piedmont, Italy. Santo Stefano Belbo has approximately 5,000 habitants and is famous as the birthplace of the author Cesar Pavese. Their vineyard grows several of the grapes for which the Piedmont region is well known: three hectares of Moscato d Asti (~7.5 acres), two hectares of Pinot Nero (~5 acres) for the sparkling wine Alta Langa, a half hectare of Dolcetto d Alba (~1.2 acres), and will soon begin planting three-quarters of a hectare of Barbera d’Asti (~2 acres). That’s it, right? Dream complete? Not so fast.?
The stone house in Santo Stefano was purchased in 2005, but Traci and Graham and their young daughter, Isabella, didn’t move there permanently until May 2009. The family did not arrive wanting to live the expat life with the attitude of “ci sono io” (I am here, pay attention to me). Rather, their intent was, and still is, to work the land themselves and gain respect from their neighbors. Through their hard work and dedication, Traci and Graham have earned the respect of their community and are not considered “stranieri” or foreigners. Having a young daughter has helped them integrate into the community with school, sports, and making lasting friendships.
While their intention was to utilize the two buildings on their property to create a high-end agriturismo with luxury apartments, Traci fell in love with working in the vineyards and their focus shifted. As a result, four years after purchasing their dream, the Isyk-Coles family took on the task of renovating a vineyard with one hectare (~2.5 acres) of “sori” Moscato d’Asti grapes. “Sori” is a Piemontese word for a vineyard with a steep slope.?
This hectare is very, very steep and must be worked exclusively by hand, but the renovation was a critical step toward Traci’s goal of becoming a “farmer” in Italy. This important designation in Italy requires hours of work focused on studying the management of vineyards, as well as learning the daily tasks and bureaucracy of running a vineyard. In order to earn the designation of 'farmer', Traci was required to take an oral exam in front of seven examiners in the regional capital, Cuneo. If the test is failed, you must continue to take it as many times as necessary to convince the examiners you are qualified - all in Italian! The qualification is important, as it gives Traci the designation of “coltivatore diretto”, a hands-on farmer. This is key to earning legitimacy in her new home.
There have been challenges and hardships along the way, not the least of which is the sheer effort it takes to care for the vineyards, prepare new plantings and manage life on a Italian farm. During their first three years in Santo Stefano, Traci and Graham planted and cared for vines while they matured for harvest and for their first sale in year four. The cost, time, and effort were immense, but it was and continues to be a “no turning back” situation. The view from their house and the tranquility that surrounds them reinforces their decision to “live the dream” every day. The Isky-Coles family has found their home, through their dream.?
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Coming soon: An American in Piedmont, Chapter 2: Langhe Seasons. Living in the hilly Langhe region of Piedmont, life is now defined by seasons for the Isyk-Coles family. Each season means different tasks in the vineyard and for the area surrounding them.?
Through conversation and images, the work and life of the Isyk-Coles family will be shared throughout 2023.