THE MAC REPORT - SPAIN

An American in Mallorca

There’s so much more to this magical island in the Mediterranean than beaches, yachts, and nightclubs.?After living here for thirteen years I’ve learned a thing—or 200— about all that it has to offer, and I’m excited to share my insider tips.?

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I moved to Mallorca in 2009. Newly single, I had only visited twice to scope out a place to live. While I had traveled throughout Spain with my former wife, a Spanish native, as well as extensively in Europe and North America most of my life, I knew little about these islands, and assumed they were just your usual summer retreats—beautiful, sure, and relaxing, but without a ton of culture to speak of.??

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After over a decade here I can say without reservation that there are few places in the world that offer such a remarkable combination of stunning landscapes, mountains, beaches, cultural heritage, and unique experiences within such a compact location as Mallorca. In fact, Travel and Leisure and Condé Nast have both named Mallorca as one of the?best places to live. While I have so many?great tips, ideas, facts and more I want to share, let's start with the big picture:

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First, there’s the history & the geography?

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Mallorca is just a thirty minute flight from Barcelona and it is the largest of the Balearic islands with a population of around one million. It?has been at the crossroads of trade and warfare, from the Romans to the Moors, giving it its own unique and diverse history. Because of its proximity to North Africa, it was occupied by the Moors for over 300 years until 1229 AD. You will find elements of these cultures in everything from design, architecture, attitude and cuisine.?

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Two of my favorite outposts are the Roman ruins of Polentia in the north and the Moorish influenced La Almudaina Palace in Palma with its complex combination of Arabic and European design.?

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Like most of Europe, the old city of Palma has plenty of Medieval charm, with the beautiful?“La Seu” cathedral, also known as the cathedral of light because of its extensive panels of stained glass windows. There are also dozens of picturesque villages throughout the island—Soller, Valldemossa, Deià, Alaro, and in particular Fornalutx, which was founded by the Moors.?Fun fact: A Franciscan monk named Miguel José Serra Ferrer was born in Petra, a small village in inland Mallorca, and was responsible for the founding of California.?

The Tramuntana mountains, one of my favorite spots for hiking (and a Unesco World Heritage Site ), dominate from Sant Elm in the southwest to Cap de Formentor in the north, and are dotted with dozens of quaint towns.?

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There are, of course, great beaches. Everywhere. Not just great but truly breathtaking, with crystal clear blue water, sandy beaches, swimming holes and secluded coves. The beaches in?the region of Illetas are popular with those from the Palma area. Playa del Muro on the north coast is one of my favorites, stretching about four miles with calm and shallow waters that are great for kids with plenty of water sports.?

While these can be crowded in high season, the rocky beaches of the east offer a great respite from the more popular spots and are absolutely spectacular in their own right. From Cala Varques to Porto Cristo, and north to Cala Mesquida, they are also close to the stunning medieval towns of Arta and Capdepera.?

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Then, there’s the food?

Mallorca actually has four distinct but temperate seasons, and with that comes amazing local produce and many regional specialties.?

One of my favorites is the Pa amb oli. This open faced “sandwich,” made using Xeixa flour sourced from Mallorcan wheat, is toasted and doused with olive oil, garlic and “ramallet” tomatoes, which have a deep, concentrated flavor, the result of a traditional method of preservation.?Other toppings include capers, garlic, ham, cheese, spicy pickled sea fennel (also a favorite), Foie gras and Sobrasada-a distinctive, paprika-spiked, cured sausage that’s spread like paté. Argentinian-style open air grills can be found throughout the island, serving local organic grass fed beef,?as well as numerous Mallorcan grills.?My favorite is Sa Farinera inside an old mill filled with Olive oil making artifacts, just east of Palma.

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With distinct seasons comes varied and abundant local produce, found year round at Sunday markets, festivals and fairs. Every month brings a specific fruit or vegetable; in March and April the markets are overflowing with wild Asparagus and Chard; in September and October you can find mushrooms of all varieties. Santa Maria del Cami and Sineu are two of the most well known markets, and one yearly fair I never miss is the Honey Fair in Llubi, where honey makers from all over Mallorca and Menorca (the second largest of the Balearic islands )?gather and enter their products, including unusual offerings like honey liquor and honey rum, into competitions.??

There’s also a continuous explosion of flowering plants and trees throughout the year.?Over seven hundred and fifty thousand almond trees bloom on the island from January to March, covering fields in a sea of?white and pink flowers. Almonds are a common ingredient in some of Mallorca’s delicious pastries and desserts. Coca de Cuarto (sponge cake ) and Ensaimada, a type of almond pastry, are popular for breakfast or `merienda′ (afternoon snack) with a coffee.

Citrus fruits, olives and grapes have grown here for centuries. Sóller's 'Valle de los Naranjos' or Orange Valley, is known for its oranges and is one of the most beautiful parts of the island.?

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For serious food lovers, there are now eleven Michelin starred restaurants; the newest is?Zaranda at the 5 star Hotel Es Princep in Palma which opened in 2018. Acclaimed Spanish chef Fernando Perez Arellano serves elegant Mallorcan cuisine in this highly acclaimed addition to the city's growing list of top restaurants. The roof-top terrace at the hotel offers beautiful views of Palma and the bay of Palma.

And wellness isn’t just a trend, it’s a tradition

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Spaniards ( including Mallorcans)?have the longest lifespan in the world, in no small part due to the Mediterranean diet, rich in fruits, vegetables, whole grains, fish and heart-healthy olive oil. The island is also known for its emphasis on outdoor living and an active lifestyle, made possible by the 300 days (on average) of sunshine a year.

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Football ( Soccer)?is of course a religion, but sports of all types are hugely popular; walk though Palma airport at arrivals in the summer and you’ll see tennis bags strapped to backs everywhere. There are first class clay and hard court facilities island wide and excellent coaches to train with. Mallorca is also?home to Rafa Nadal and the Rafa Nadal Academy, and each summer the island hosts the popular and growing?ATP Mallorca Open in Santa Ponsa.?

There are numerous world class golf courses on the island, challenging even the best golfers

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Hiking is popular among locals and tourists, and there’s a huge variety of hikes to suit all skill levels, from easy to difficult, even for experienced hikers. An 8 kilometer hike from Sant Elm to La Trapa takes you along the green, wild and rugged southwest coast to a famous monastery ruins built by Trappist monks. While challenging, it offers spectacular views of Dragonera island, which has the distinct shape of a lizard and is, ironically, inhabited by thousands of endemic lizards.

Another hike from Sa Calobra ( The snake in Spanish ) in the northwest?stands above the rest for its overall beauty and stunning vistas. Getting there by car is a rewarding (and slightly hairy) adventure due to the narrow, twisting roads. It is also a training ground for world class cyclists.?

Mallorca is home to several well established Yoga studios and retreat centers. The oldest?is Earth Yoga in Palma, and in recent years Mallorca has become a hub for international yoga professionals from all over the world, offering teacher training, special workshops and retreats. Early in the morning in the summer you can go to most beaches and find a class to join any day of the week.

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This just scratches the surface?of what this truly stunning, unique and magical place has to offer. In future posts I’ll cover favorite restaurants that locals love, the best deserted beaches, essential day trips, vineyard tours, how to navigate a move here from abroad and so much more. All of the reasons you need to add it to your travel plans for 2023 and beyond.?Que tengas un dia maravilloso ( Have a wonderful day ).

ABOUT ME

I was born in Bucks County, Pennsylvania in the United States, and was raised by two educators who instilled in me a curiosity about people and the world. They introduced me to the joys of traveling at a young age when Pan Am Airlines and TWA ruled the air.?

I am a graduate of Guilford College in Greensboro, NC where I majored in history and political science. I am a lifelong educator who has been a history teacher, high school athletic director, college basketball coach, wellness advocate, and notably, an Educational and Career Consultant for over twenty-two years. I am well known on United States university campuses as a consultant, recruiter, interviewer, and coach, and have helped over 8,000 people achieve their professional goals.?

I have conducted professional sessions at the Harvard Graduate School of Education, Columbia Teachers College, Brown University, Princeton University Teacher Prep, Duke University, and the Spanish Ministry of Education.

I am a multiculturalist who has lived in the United States, Jamaica, and Spain and Mallorca, which has been my home since 2010. The?MAC?Report is the?culmination of my travel and life experiences and, aside from being the first three letters of my last name, also represents who I am, where I am and?how I see the world right now: A?Mallorcan, an?American and a?Coach.

My passions are education, history and culture, world politics, travel, fitness, football, yoga and food.