90s Fine: How Boom Shaka Reclaimed Sexual Expression Through Fashion for Black Women and Defined an Era

The kwaito group, led by the magnetic Lebo Mathosa and Thembi Seete, became cultural architects of a new aesthetic in the 90s. Through their bold fashion choices and unapologetic expressions of sexuality, Boom Shaka not only set trends but also confronted deeply entrenched societal norms about Black women’s bodies, beauty, and agency. They reclaimed sexual expression for Black women and established a blueprint for style that continues to resonate decades later.

Lebo and Thembi,? personified fearless self-expression. Their signature looks became synonymous with the kwaito movement: long, thick box braids flowing with effortless cool; edgy patent Doc Martens grounding their looks in urban grit; and a kaleidoscope of bold, colourful makeup that was unapologetically playful and audacious. These choices were intentional acts of self-definition. By embracing styles that highlighted their bodies, they challenged the pervasive narrative that Black women’s sexuality was either invisible or hyper-visible in ways that rendered it deviant. Mathosa and Seete’s wardrobe choices—form-fitting outfits, crop tops, and bold prints—communicated a message of ownership: ownership of their bodies, their narratives, and their right to be seen as dynamic individuals.

In a nation where patriarchal and conservative values often dictated(still does) women’s behaviour, Boom Shaka’s unapologetic celebration of sexuality was radical. Lebo Mathosa, in particular, became a symbol of liberation, her commanding stage presence and sensual choreography daring to reimagine what it meant for Black women to take up space. Both she and Thembi Seete disrupted the status quo, carving out a new archetype of sexual freedom within mainstream culture. They were neither victims nor caricatures of desire; instead, they redefined desire on their own terms.?

More than 30 years later, Boom Shaka’s influence remains palpable. The visual markers of their style have transcended the 1990s, finding new life in contemporary fashion trends. Thick box braids, once a signature of Mathosa and Seete, have become a staple in global beauty culture, from red carpets to runways. The urban cool of Doc Martens, once a subcultural statement, now anchors streetwear aesthetics embraced by younger generations. Even the boldness of their makeup—bright eyeshadows, glossy lips, and exaggerated blush—has made a cyclical return, celebrated for its fearless creativity.

The longevity of Boom Shaka’s fashion legacy speaks to its adaptability and the universality of its core message: authenticity. For Black women, these styles carry layers of cultural significance, embodying pride, defiance, and a refusal to conform. Boom Shaka’s sartorial choices did more than set trends—they started conversations. In the 1990s, their daring ensembles and performances sparked debates about respectability politics. Could Black women be sexy without being labeled “hoes” or “ratchet”? A conversation we are still having today. This double standard, rooted in colonial and patriarchal ideologies, continues to shape how Black women’s fashion and bodies are perceived.

What Boom Shaka achieved was a reclamation of these narratives. By embracing styles that society attempted to weaponise against them, Mathosa and Seete redefined the parameters of Black femininity. They were not just performers but cultural provocateurs, forcing audiences to reckon with their biases and preconceptions.

In the decades since, these conversations have evolved. The mainstreaming of Black aesthetics signals progress. But it also underscores the ongoing need to credit and centre Black women as the originators of these trends. Boom Shaka’s legacy serves as both a reminder of this history and a call to honour it.

Their influence—seen in everything from thick long box braids to bold makeup—continues to shape contemporary culture, offering a blueprint for authenticity and empowerment. Boom Shaka’s legacy remains a vital touchstone, reminding us of the power of style as a form of resistance and self-definition.