5 things i learned from 5 years of Surfing

Today i'm celebrating my 5th year in Surfing. Time is really running out. I remember when i started surfing, it was only to learn how to deal with rip currents. Now i'm learning about how to drop into 6 foot wave.

In this celebration, i wanted to share with you 5 life lessons i learned from surfing.

How good is to fail

Life can be very tough when we fail in something; Fail in school, miss a job interview, lose money in a project, fail in relationships, etc. But i can't describe how good is when you fail in surfing; you fall into wave you wanted to drop in, get washed by white water, you get back on your board paddling back to the peak with crazy laughs and runny nose.

Surf taught me a lot about failing and i'm trying to replicate the same attitude in life. "We learn by failing" is a common quote but i realize now that it's true and try to make it my learning path in life.

Great results come with patience and consistency

When i started surfing, i was thinking that it'll be easy to ride a wave, but as soon i get in the water with a surfboard and leash on my right foot, i changed my mind. Surf is a very complex sport that combines balance, Stamina, physical strength, clear mind, and powerful body coordination to ride a wave.

These skills are not acquired overnight. It takes time and consistency to start surfing, same for other skills in life. It's related to the previous point as we're learning from our mistakes and from regular practice.

I'm trying this year to go into the 10 000 hours of surfing to improve my performance and enjoy more waves.

Mindset is more important than the skill

Life is too short to be over thought

Waves and ocean is scary place to be. I remembered how many surf sessions i was alone in water and got out in the first 15 minutes so scared from the wave size or ocean movement. In these situations it happens that i got in water anxious, overthinking the current wave size, and how hard it'll be getting a wipe out.

Overthinking - Especially - put me many times in dangerous situations as i freeze when i decide to drop in wave and end up falling, badly ... I'm trying to teach myself to not overthink and only to apply what i learned without thinking: When i see a green wave coming, just turn, paddle as hard as i can, and once i get pushed by the wave, Pop up and turn. That's it. No overthinking.

I practiced this over and over the last 2 weeks, and start seeing some improvements in surfing and waves scored overall. Aloha :)

Connecting with mother nature is the key

I realize, as human being, we're as weak compared to mother nature. Ocean is the perfect example. Very unpredictable, Unstable, Strong, Dark not blue. That's how i can describe the ocean. It's blue as well, fun, relaxing and a happy place to be and enjoy in sunny and rainy days.

I learned, and still learning a lot from the reconnection with mother nature and i can't stress this enough. We're linked somehow to nature and we have to connect with as it's sort of mind and soul refuel.

Passion should be our first priority

Broke and happy is way better than rich and sad!

Surfing is priceless. The state you'll be in after a surf session is epic. mind cleared, sour but relaxed body, Happy like a 3 years old boy.

Surfing helps me to stay very young and it's my medication now for 5 years. My addiction.

I spent 2019 focusing on my career, wealth. It was a good decision but i can't tell i feel depressed and sad when i get back home after 14 hours workday. The time i'm writing this article is when i realized what is more important to me in life. It's not the money. It's not what i own. It's not the fame. It's my happiness, and it's the exciting things i experience in life. Surfing is the main one.

I love the feeling i have after each session; Scared as hell or happy as f***. It helps to manage better my emotion and refresh my mind. It gives me the same benefits as drugs but healthiest ones.

I'm sure it taught more than 5 things but these are the main ones that really changed my life in the last 5 years. Something i'm sure about is it helped me to learn more about myself, Strengths and weaknesses, and i won't be giving up on surf till the last day in my life.

Aloha,

Yassine El Ayoubi