#5 Fast to ultra-fast to instant—fashion lifecycles are sprinting, not slowing
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Welcome to Perspective, WFX’s monthly newsletter for fashion industry pros who love tech and innovation. In this issue, we’re looking at fashion’s insatiable need for speed and the latest developments in the world of fast fashion.??
France’s crackdown on ultra-fast fashion players like Shein, Temu and their lookalikes has caused a stir in the global fashion industry. The move has also opened a cerebral can of worms. It begs several questions: can we differentiate between fast and ‘non-fast’ fashion? Is speed the true problem? Can we truly ‘ban’ it? Should we ban it???
Before we get into all that, let’s understand what’s happening in France: Earlier this year, France became the first in the world to legislate a “limit on the excesses of ultra-fast fashion.” While the Senate vote is pending, the French lower Parliament backed several measures like advertising bans and a ‘fast fashion tax’ to make low-price fast fashion less attractive for shoppers, especially if such products are made by Chinese mass producers.??
It’s an interesting move but it surely is not going to be the only development in this space. More and more governments are upping the regulatory ante to put a stop or at least a road bump in the rise of ‘fast fashion’ brands. So, it's all the more important to keep up with the latest in fashion lifecycles.???
No one has all the answers, so I want to present you with the available information and encourage you to find your own answers!???
? What is instant fashion???
A term coined by Ken Pucker , instant fashion is the latest evolution of the fast fashion model, characterized by ultra-cheap pricing and real-time production that responds immediately to consumer demand (especially from social media) and is largely driven by mobile marketing.??
Unlike traditional fast fashion, which may take a few weeks from design to shelf, instant fashion can turn around new styles in a matter of days, if not hours, based on live data from search trends on social commerce platforms like TikTok. ?
? What’s the difference between fast fashion, ultra-fast fashion or instant fashion???
Fast fashion quickly brings runway trends to stores (e.g., Zara, H&M). Ultra-fast fashion predicts and meets consumer demands in near real-time (e.g., Shein, Temu). Instant fashion is ultra’s cousin producing items on-demand based on advanced tech for immediate delivery (we think TikTok shops fall into this?).
? What makes a brand fall into one or more categories???
A brand's production speed, marketing strategies, and price points typically determine its classification. Fast fashion is quick and affordable, ultra-fast fashion is data-driven and faster, and instant fashion employs real-time production and mobile marketing. The distinction lies in the level of speed and technological integration each model employs.??
? Can luxury brands propagate the same problems as fast fashion???
Absolutely, luxury brands can still have high carbon footprints, unethical labor practices, and promote overconsumption but they often don’t face the same heat as fast fashion brands. For example, LVMH’s Dior was recently accused of outsourcing the production of their luxury handbags to Chinese-owned firms that mistreat workers. A separate, unrelated BBC investigation recently linked child labor to the production of Lanc?me and Aerin Beauty's perfumes.???
? Should fashion products carry a cigarette-like warning label???
Why not! The upcoming mandate for Digital Product Passports in the EU is in this vein. Peter Gorse ’s The Garment Facts Label project is another interesting take on this. Such labeling could educate consumers about the environmental and health impacts of their purchases, potentially driving more conscious buying decisions and pressuring brands to adopt more sustainable practices. Rather than shaming people for buying something, this approach gives customers the agency to choose! ?
These questions are contentious but crucial for tackling the industry’s sustainability issues. We must confront these truths and demand better practices for the future of fashion.?Need an expert perspective? Our sustainable transformation team is here to help - Book a 1:1 call??
Check out the latest stories from around the world on this topic!??
?? The lingering cost of instant fashion - This article delves into the hidden costs of fast fashion, examining the environmental and social impacts that persist beyond the cheap price tags and rapid trends.?
?? Why social media ‘coolness’ trumps sustainability - Discover how the allure of social media trends and influencers often overshadows the importance of sustainability among retail consumers, as detailed in this insightful analysis.??
?? How to get ready for upcoming sustainability mandates - A practical guide offering actionable steps and strategies for fashion brands to embrace sustainability, from sourcing to implementation of eco-friendly practices.?
?? What’s behind the slow fashion recession - This piece explores the factors contributing to the slowdown in the slow fashion movement, analyzing market trends and consumer behaviors that are influencing this shift.?
?? Sustainability regulations for fashion in EU - This whitepaper covers all key sustainability regulations for fashion in the EU, offering guidance for navigating new legal requirements and transition towards more sustainable operations.??
ICYMI: Our last issue covered the “sustainability strategies for fashion brands in 2024,” go catch up!
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