49. GEREWOL FESTIVAL, CHAD
Held in the southwest of Chad, the Gerewol takes place at the end of the rainy season, around the last week of September. The Wodaabe people lead a semi nomadic life of cattle herding, covering huge distances in search of water in isolated family groups. They belong to the Fulani ethnic group, and are split into several different clans, with around eight or nine in Chad alone. The Gerewol is the only time during the year that they all gather together.
The Gerewol festival involves feasting, socialising, camel racing but it culminates with a final dance display, after which three winners are chosen by three women of marriageable age who have closely observed the dances over the previous few days. The selection is tense, with the young women walking down the line of dancers, poker faced in accordance with the Wodaabe?pulaku, or code of behavior. Then each taps their favourite man and everyone rushes in to celebrate and congratulate the winners – being selected is a huge honour. The women then return to their camps and wait. If the chosen men like them, they follow.
The festival is a mass courtship ritual where the men will spend hours applying makeup and dressing up, which differs greatly from clan to clan. The young Wodaabe men decorate themselves with elaborate paint, layers upon layers of jewelry, fancy hats, and elaborate costumes in a display to attract the young women. The Sudoskai typically paint their faces in red and orange wearing beautiful tall hats and turbans, while the Njapto paint their faces in white dots and patterns wearing ostrich feathers on their heads.
Chad’s huge size, plus its isolation created by years of conflict in the region has helped keep this fascinating tribal tradition intact. Visiting is a unique and rewarding privilege. Most organised tours to experience the Gerewol spend around five days there, with the festival the sole focus of a week’s holiday in Chad, rather than being slotted into a much larger tour.
The festival is surely unique and exciting for tourists !