4 Days in Shanghai: A Writer's Exploration of Art, Culture, and Conversations - Part 2

DAY 3: Mud, Tombs, and Conversations with an Old Friend?

This day started off with my husband and I taking a walk in People’s Square Park: a serene, dreamy place with small ponds, open and covered walkways, and lush flora in Shanghai's city centre.

Its benches were perfect for taking a quick (lunch) break and I saw people indulging in mindful moments. As my husband pointed out tiny turtles and koi fish in the ponds, nature's bounty and beauty filled me with awe. Isn’t it funny how humans change and reconstruct urban spaces to reflect and accommodate our busy lifestyles, but nature shows us it’s in control??

I watched the creatures swim about and people staring into nothingness for a good while. Thich Nhat Hanh’s famous quote, "No mud, no lotus", came to mind as I observed the lotus flowers standing tall and beautiful, unaffected by the surrounding muck in the ponds. A gentle tap on my shoulder reminded me to come back to the present moment. We had somewhere else to go to.?

Our next stop was a Women's Traditional Costumes of China Exhibition at Shanghai’s History Museum. The exhibition was in Mandarin and whatever little we could translate was through apps. Despite the language barrier, we were stunned by the different costumes for every region with unique embroidery, patchwork, silver jewellery, shoes, and headdress. Skirts and dresses were made with silk, velvet, and brocade fabric. Vivid colours such as parrot green and fuchsia contrasted some outfits’ black backgrounds.?

The costumes worn in the Xinjiang region by women from Uzbekistan, Tajikistan, Kazakhstan, Kyrgyzstan, and Russia caught my eye. Gold thread work and beads used in the Kyrgyz and Kazakh outfits resembled Zardozi, a type of embroidery used in traditional Indian clothing. Zardozi originated in Persia and probably had made its way to these countries through trade.?

We grabbed the chance to attend another exhibition happening on the museum’s top floor. It turned out to be a worthwhile immersive exhibition of tombs in China’s Xi’an region. Staff gave us a VR headset that simulated time travel to the ancient tombs. The visit was ‘guided’ by a young virtual influencer dressed in denim shorts and a crop top. She took us through the Xi’an tombs step by step and explained their history in English.?

It felt surreal to be transported to the desert, and seconds later, to ancient tombs complete with fire torches, inscriptions, and stone sculptures of animals. VR had allowed us to experience the tombs in Xi’an without travelling there. Hats off to the museum and, more importantly, the animators for using technology to teach locals and foreigners about Chinese heritage in a modern and engaging way.

A little after 6pm, Ivy ( Ivy Xia ) was waiting for me in the lobby of my hotel. We exchanged a big hug and ventured towards the restaurant right away. Seeing her brought back fond memories of studying in Lancaster with other foreign students.

I had read that Chinese are a tight-knit community with a high regard for trust and respect. Being let into their circle meant you had put in the required effort and gained their trust. Ivy holding my hand and walking around in Shanghai that evening made me feel extra grateful for being curious about and exchanging thoughts with my 30 Chinese classmates.?

Over a sumptuous meal of Peking duck, mushroom fried rice, vegetables, and bottomless Pu-Erh tea, Ivy and I caught up on the nine years we hadn't seen each other. I shared that I got married the year after we graduated, and migrated to Barcelona with my husband soon after. “My freelance writing and editing work has nothing to do with what we studied,” I laughed.

Ivy mentioned that she works as a recruiter and enjoys living in Shanghai. “I am originally from Xi’an but I like it here. The city has wonderful career opportunities. I have a circle of friends, and regularly go for international plays, opera, and concerts at the Shanghai Grand Theatre. The theatre plays them in their original language,” she said.

“Gosh, we went to see an exhibition of the Xi’an tombs this evening at the Shanghai Revolution History Museum. How uncanny is that?!”??

“Yes, actually we locals have a joke that there’s no limit to the number of tombs in Xi’an. They keep discovering more and more for every dynasty.” We both burst into giggles at this revelation.?

Upon sharing that I enjoyed walking in People’s Square park, she revealed yet another story: “Did you know this park is the matchmaking corner of Shanghai? Every Sunday, parents with children of marriageable age come here to find them suitors. They bring flyers with their son/daughter’s CV and a short bio about them. The children don’t even live in China at times but the matchmaking still happens here”.?

“Wow, I didn’t expect that. It sounds similar to Indian culture, where the pressure to get married increases once you reach a certain age. Matchmaking in Indian communities usually happens through matchmakers or word of mouth. Though, you’ll see matrimonial ads in Indian newspapers, too.”?

“Yes, the pressure is high especially for girls. We are expected to settle down by a certain age. Otherwise, our parents have to deal with questions from the community. It’s a difficult position to be in.”?

“I empathise, Ivy. I’ve been there too, and it was frustrating. I hope parents understand it’s hard to find someone. I got married when I was 30 for this very reason.”

Our eyes met while we took a sip from our teacups, letting out a big sigh at the same time.

The conversation steered to travel and stereotypes, with Ivy sharing how saddening the perception of China and Chinese people is around the world.?

“I understand how hard that must be. Growing up, I heard lots of stereotypes too. I never believed them and I am happy to have travelled here on multiple occasions. In fact, would you mind if I wrote about our lovely conversation as part of an article? I believe it’ll illustrate both the beauty of your country and its people.”?

Ivy’s face broke out into a big grin. She nodded and said “I’d love to read it.”?

No matter how much I offered, she wouldn't let me pay for dinner. “In Chinese culture, we don’t let our guests pay,” she said.?

“Promise you’ll visit me in Barcelona soon?” I asked once we reached my hotel.?

“I’d love that. I've wanted to visit Europe, and now I have a friend to visit in Spain.” Big hugs followed.?

I went to bed thanking the universe for meeting kind people everywhere I go.?

DAY 4 in Shanghai: A Ming Dynasty Garden, A Tea-Making Robot, and Contemporary Art

I didn’t want to think of going back on our last day in Shanghai, while my husband was already dreading the jetlag that awaited us. We chose to see Yu Garden, the YuYuan Tourist Mart, and Fuzhou Road Cultural Street and make the most of our trip.

Yu Garden’s pavilions, rock formations, and ponds were breathtaking: they offered a glimpse of China in the Ming dynasty. Moreover, it was a welcome juxtaposition to the modernity of current day Shanghai.?

YuYuan Tourist Mart was selling art, souvenirs, and tea sets, alongside dried and fresh teas, and Chinese wines. We had never seen a teashop fully manned by a robot before. After sampling salty, buttery soft mooncakes on Fuzhou Road, we came back to the hotel with semi-full tummies.??

I had one last exhibition on my mind for this trip and gave my husband a pleading look. Luckily, he agreed, and we headed out in the evening. The Shanghai Museum of Contemporary Art was a walk in the park. No, really: it was located in People’s Square Park!?

We were pleasantly surprised by Oamul Lu’s solo exhibition. The Fujian-born, Shanghai-based artist has been recognised as one of China’s leading illustrators. Museum staff told us his artwork and artistic journey were popular among China’s gen-z, leading to the extension of his exhibition. We had made it for the last day.

“The government invests heavily in promoting Chinese artists and we handpick them for exhibiting at MoCA every few months,” said staff. I could see why: Oamul’s illustrations were refreshing, modern, and used vivid colours, much like art in modern magazines and children’s books. Projectors highlighted the interesting perspectives of some of his works, while a 3D sculpture brought his illustration of a man shining a torch on a cheetah to life.?

Seeing how much success this artist had enjoyed took me back to an intern I had managed during my early HR days. She would draw elaborate illustrations in her sketchbook during quiet moments in the office. “Your artwork is amazing. Why not do something with your talent?” I once asked her.?

“My parents believe illustration is futile and artists have no future, so I’m pursuing HR to make them happy,” she replied. I sighed. After I changed jobs, she and I lost touch for a while. We reconnected on Instagram some years later, and this summer, she mentioned how unhappy she was with her HR job. I sent her photos of Oamul’s success as an illustrator, which inspired her to rekindle her artwork.

I entered a stationery shop on the way home from the museum to find colourful adult puzzles, scrapbooking supplies, and DIY miniature kits, among others. Their variety of stickers transported me to childhood, and I picked up an assortment to fuel my journaling habit.

I closed the curtains of our hotel room thinking of how Shanghai had been the perfect blend of culture, food, shopping, and greenery.

Back in Barcelona, I wondered how much travel enriches the soul. You not only get to meet people from different walks of life but also get to challenge your biases. You learn what the world is like beyond your place of residence, and get the chance to bring back new ideas and habits. All it requires is a curious and open mind.

#travel #writers #editors #storytelling #culture #China