A 360o VISION OF THE VINEYARD ECOSYSTEM

(Disclaimer: adapted from a article originally published in Espor?o Report '15)

There is a special moment that precedes the vintage. It is the coldest night, hidden among the shortest day of the year, in the middle of winter. That’s where it all starts. The field appears to be asleep under the cover of morning frost and one can only hear the wind whisper and agitate the dead leaves.

It is in this magic moment that under our feet - literally - the plants receive a sign that the new cycle is starting. The vines show shy signals that they are about to restart their growth cycle. On the ground, the roots that withstand the physical hardship of the season find precious allies - the microbiome. They are millions of bacteria, fungi and other beneficial microorganisms that were protected by minimum tillage techniques and the use of green covers and maintained the ecological integrity of the soil. Here, even under the rain, frost and wind, the dormant soil lives and breathes. It is the basis of the ecosystem. Later, it will be this living soil that will contribute decisively to the terroir, the key element of the alchemy of our wines.

A question of landscape architecture

With the end of winter and the arrival of the first warm days of March, another important stage begins - the protective effect of ecological infrastructures as a determining element of landscape architecture of vineyard blocks. Some of the greatest dangers to their healthy development comes from fungi that benefit from moisture accumulation and lack of ventilation or light in the most protected areas of the plant, as in the case of downy mildew, powdery mildew and botrytis.

Here, the ecological infrastructure acts as a first line of defence.

In the last few years the vineyards were re-evaluated in order to realise how to restore the original water lines that crossed the estate in the northeast- southwest direction and that, in many cases, were buried under plots of vines which, unsurprisingly, showed signs of chronic diseases associated with excessive humidity. By stepping back and redesigning several instalments and by creating barriers of trees and shrubs that have helped to control the levels of shade and ventilation, the living structure that functions as regulator of ecological environmental health was restored.

Meanwhile, in the allies’ barracks...

But these infrastructures are not reducible to physical presence. The choice of the species of trees and shrubs in these protective lines is meant to create the effect of barracks. Several species of parasitic and predatory wasps, that will strongly contribute for the control of potential pests such as the green leafhopper and grape berry moths, as well as natural pollinators that play a decisive role in the floristic composition of protection and soil cover plants find shelter and provisions to survive the winter in this ‘living citadel’. On the brambles and blackthorns lurk tiny wasps that measure just over 1mm and parasite the eggs of the green leafhopper. Hidden in torpor state, under the protection of the trunks and roots, are ladybugs and other predator beetles as well as some net- -winged insects and mantis who will feed on the eggs and larvae of yellow spider mites, aphids, scale insects and other ‘vegetarians’ that, despite being part of this healthy ecosystem, may pose a danger to production if their numbers increase too much. Right there, next to a touriga nacional ou rabo-de-ovelha field we can find several hungry allies ready to close ranks. These will provide a vital service in protecting the production ecosystem. And they do it for free!

Here come the infantry and the air force

With the arrival of spring, the lizards awaken. These small reptiles will take position next to the vines to ambush moths and flies, as well as pick up some snails and slugs which might venture into the new leaves. Beneath them, the soil-factory comes into full operation, develops mycelium fungi circuits which thrive only in living soils protected from the plow drag. They create a vital network among the vines and plant cover which will redistribute crucial nutrients and, more importantly, will keep rainwater to optimum levels for good root development and functional capacity.

Above ground, well above, bats spread their wings after spending winter in shelters placed by Espor?o in recent years.

Many species of insectivorous birds chirp away as they arrive from distant places or increase their activity with the days growing longer. Swallows, robins, larks, hoopoes, they are everywhere, flying over ponds and water streams, looking for opportunists trying to poke leaves and nibble flower buds. Further up, the buzzards hover, searching for a distracted mouse or mole. When spring is almost gone and we can feel summer coming, the plots have already rediscovered their ecological balance. Water, soil, biodiversity and light in certain doses tested by years of trial and error, help to close the clusters and bring colour to the berries.  

Summer songs

During the hot days of summer, we often prefer the shaded retreats for escaping the blazing sun and hot air, but while we seek shelter, there are other species roaming around… it is the rearing season for many birds and there are busy parents flying in search of healthy meals for their young. Also with a little luck, we can see the visiting osprey pick out a carp from the reservoir or the timid and rare black stork probe for frogs in wetlands.

In addition to the various species of birds you can see at the reservoir, particularly at sunrise and sunset, there are other surprises at closer quarters. We can often see animal tracks and the leftovers of red swamp crawfish, which is the work of a family of otters which has been flourishing on the estate. These are very clever and elusive animals, who keep a very low profile; however, those with a keen eye can try their luck during twilight, sometimes the younglings make an appearance, their love of playtime makes their presence slightly more noticeable.

In the wetlands and streamside galleries that shape the landscape, amongst the vineyards and the holm oak ‘montado’ woodlands, there are certain species that are very important in controlling potential pests, such as European and Mediterranean tree frogs, the Iberian midwife toad and the Iberian green frog. There are also rodent predators around, such as the Montpellier snake and ladder snake, as well as the cheerful fisherman that is the viperine water snake, which sometimes frightens those walking on the water’s edge, although completely harmless, despite its scary name.

Liquid landscape

When the vineyard landscape is already showing autumnal colours and the days dawn with haze, it’s time to taste the results of another year of work. Some wines will be ready to leave in a few months; others will know the cold of stainless steel, the aromatic sleep of oak barrels or the earthy touch of the amphora or cement. Some will only come to live on the following summer or several years from now, at your table, with the soothing sound of the uncorking.

At this point remember everything that made that moment possible. People who harvested and prepared the grapes, plants and animals that were part of the theatre of operations, the water that was managed carefully and the rich, living soil that supported the vines.

All of it - all of us - will be there again when that cold and wintery day happens again.