#139:From my unlocked diaries: A trip to Dev Bhoomi – Mukhba village, where the spirit of hospitality is still alive - Part 5

Atithi Devo Bhava in Sanskrit means – ‘Every guest is equivalent to God’.?A traditional Indian/Hindu philosophy where every guest needs to be treated with warmth, reverence and with genuine hospitality. But in today’s busy, digitally connected world very few people have time for guests, leave alone treating them like Gods!

The spirit of Atithi Devo Bhava is perhaps seen more in big, grand hotels these days, where guests are offered ceremonial welcome with garlands, and pampered like Gods…!!?Well, that’s commercial hospitality for you. However, genuine, heartfelt, spontaneous hospitality is a rarity these days. Well, that’s what we thought, till we visited this remote village in Gangotri region called - Mukhba.?

Mukhba is a quaint, quiet and an idyllic village located near the Bhagirathi river.?It is surrounded by mighty snow-capped mountains and is located about 30 Kms from Gangotri temple near Harsil Valley.

Nestled among the mountains, even the passing clouds wants to stop here for a cosy homestay…??

People of this village open their hearts & homes, even to complete strangers.?I will soon tell you why I say so.?And once you hear it, you will appreciate why even Ganga Mai (Goddess Ganga) comes here during the winter ?months, all the way from Gangotri, to stay here … in her mother’s cosy home.

At the beginning of every winter, and the day after Diwali, Gangotri temple (in Gangotri) closes for the next 6 months due to heavy snow fall.?The Ganga Mai idol from the Gangotri Temple is placed in a palanquin and carried down to Mukhba village by priests and devotees.?This ceremonial procession takes over 2 days to reach Mukhba village.?

As the ‘daughter of the village’ arrives in Mukhba, Ganga Mai is given a grand welcome by the local ITBP (Indo-Tibetan Border Police) band and musicians.?The Ganga idol will reside in this temple – in her mother’s home for the next 6 months, till the Chaar Dham yatra begins in the month of May.

The local priest at the Mukhba temple patiently told us about the temple rituals that are performed for the next 6 months

After the temple visit, as we turned to leave we were greeted by a man wearing an Army jerkin, on which was written - Gharwal Rifles.?Next to him was a tall teenage boy, who perhaps was his son.?Upon sensing that we were visitors, and having heard us ask a lot of questions to the temple priest about the village, he smiled at us and introduced himself as - Manoj Semwal (Manoj).

Manoj told us he was in the Indian Army and was serving in Gharwal Rifles regiment for 21 years.?He was visiting his village (Mukhba) during his vacation. He proudly told us that he had also served in J & K, Assam and Arunachal Pradesh and posted in some of the sensitive border areas.?

After our brief introductions and thanking him, we turned to leave.?That’s when Manoj said – ‘Sir Ji, how can you just go away without seeing my ancestral home and having tea in my new home?’.?

Agreeing to his unexpected offer, we went along with Manoj.

Manoj fondly took us around the village and with a lot of pride showed us his ancestral home near the temple. About 160 years old, this house was built by his great grandfather.?

The ancestral home is made of wood, to keep it warm during harsh winters.?This ‘multi-storied’ home is connected internally by wooden stairs.?The aroma of the damp, moist wood filled the air as we walked in through the main door.?Manoj cautioned us ?– ‘Sir ji, watch your head.?These doors are built to size, to ensure you always bend down, just so that your ego does not get the better of you’.

From the balcony of this ancestral home was a majestic view of the Ganga Mai temple below…

As we walked through the narrow stairs-case, cosy rooms and the kitchen we wondered about how many people lived here in the past… ? Manoj, almost reading our thoughts?said –‘Sir, till about 15 years ago about 21 people from my family lived in this house as a joint family, with just one kitchen.?As kids grew up, due to education needs most of them have now moved down to other villages’?

I asked Manoj where he lived now, and to which he replied – ‘Sir, I have recently built a new house nearby, and I will take you there. ?Once I retire in about 2 years, I will come back to Mukhba for good to take care of apple orchards. Next my son will join the Army’

Looking at Manoj and his thin frame, I could not help, but ask him on what basis he was recruited by the army?

Manoj smiled, and pointing to the distant mountain across the river and said – ‘Sir, Gharwal Rifles selection process is very simple.?Whoever climbs up that mountain, collects a token from the top and brings it back to the base in 2 hours gets selected.?And I was among the 15 out of 100 that came back with the token on the selection day.?The rest did not even make it to the top in 2 hours’

Hearing Manoj I realised what a Garhwali is made of.?Don’t go by their physique, it’s their sheer ability to climb up & down these mountains carrying weights, their sheer grit and toughness.?It is no wonder that maximum number of Indian Army enrolments happen from some of these mountain states like Uttarakhand and Himachal Pradesh.

Finally Manoj took us to his recently built house and introduced us to his wife, who offered us hot Tea and snacks.?

As the light was fading, it was now time for us to bid goodbye to Manoj and his family. Just before leaving Manoj did something which is a long forgotten by many, especially in this digitally connected world.?Manoj wrote down his entire postal address of Mukhba village in a piece of paper, and said – ‘Sir Ji, next time you plan a trip here, please write to me in advance, and I will make all arrangements for you to stay here in Mukhba’.??

As we headed back to our hotel, we were ruminating about the wonderful hospitality and spontaneity of Manoj Semiwal, a soldier by profession but a wonderful person by heart.?It’s no surprise that even Ganga Mai comes here during winter to enjoy such hospitality in Mukhba village.?Truly ‘Atithi Devo Bhava’ is what we experienced that day in Mukhba.

After spending two days in the Gangotri region, we ended our?9-day trip to Uttarakhand at Rishikesh.?

At Rishikesh … evening Ganga Aarthi on Triveni Ghat?

My pranam to Ganga Mai

Hope you all enjoyed the Dev Bhoomi series.?In case you missed the earlier Parts, here it goes ...

Part 1 - https://www.dhirubhai.net/pulse/134-from-my-unlocked-diaries-trip-dev-bhoomi-part-1-r-balu-/

Part 2 - https://www.dhirubhai.net/pulse/135from-my-unlocked-diaries-trip-dev-bhoomichopta-trek-r-balu-/

Part 3 - https://www.dhirubhai.net/pulse/137from-my-unlocked-diaries-trip-dev-bhoomigangotri-yogi-r-balu-/

Part 4 - https://www.dhirubhai.net/pulse/138from-my-unlocked-diaries-trip-dev-bhoomigartangali-r-balu-/

Balu

June 21, 2022

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