#138:From my unlocked diaries: A trip to Dev Bhoomi–Gartangali, an ancient Indo–Tibet Silk route: Part 4

The staircase to heaven begins … right here.?That’s how we felt, as we approached this wooden bridge in Gangotri National Park.

After the visit to the holy shrine of Gangotri (see Part 3 - https://www.dhirubhai.net/pulse/137from-my-unlocked-diaries-trip-dev-bhoomigangotri-yogi-r-balu-/ ), the next day started with a planned trek to Gartangali.??

Enroute, we got some furry company…!

After trekking for about 45 minutes on a narrow, steep mountain path in Gangotri National Park…

Suddenly … we saw the most fascinating sight in front of us …!

To our right … a deep river valley with the pristine river Ganga flowing peacefully …

And to our left … the comfort of a rustic mountain to hold on; and hinged on it, a wooden bridge embedded to the side of the mountain, at a height of about 1,200 feet above the cliff!!??

This wooden bridge figured in the famous 1997 English movie – 7 Years in Tibet (based on a true story).?

In the movie, the actor Brad Pitt uses this path, to cross from India into Lahsa in Tibet, before he goes on to meet the boy - Dalai Lama.

This wooden bridge was used as one of the ancient trade routes between India and Tibet.?It is believed to have been built by Peshawar Pathans and is about 150 years old.?It is located near Nelong valley, about 40 Kms from the Indo-China border at a height of 11,000 feet.?This wooden bridge is 136 meters long & 1.8 meters wide.?Damaged over the years, it fell into disuse. After the 1962 Indo-China war, this route was declared off-limits for civilians.?It reopened for tourists after 59 years during 2019, after renovation by the state government.?

A side view of the Gartangali bridge …from the other side of the mountain.?Looks like a snake crawling on the mountain… !?

After an eventful trek, our next drive was to Nelong valley Indian Army check-post.?This drive needs an inner-line permit, which our travel agent had arranged with help from Mr. Tilak in Uttarkashi. The 21 Km drive starts with the permit being checked by the National Park staff.?

What I found amazing was the absolute dedication and diligence of the guard at the check post.?He meticulously noted down each of our names, Aadhar numbers, phone numbers and promptly gave us a receipt for Rs. 150 entrance fees.?

Curious, I asked why he needs to write each of our names, instead of entering just one name.?To which he politely replied in Hindi – ‘Sir ji, two reasons; one - from here on it’s a restricted Army area, and the second - the roads are very bad.?We will have to account for every person going, and coming back here in the next few hours’

It is only when we started driving on this remote mountain road maintained by BRO (Border Roads Organisation), we realised why this region is called the - Ladakh of Uttarakhand. The topography gradually started to change … to barren, cold mountains.?

As our driver Ashadu negotiated a treacherous mountain crossing filled with boulders, with a stream gushing down from the mountain side, he remarked – ‘Paagal Naala’.?

Curious, I asked Ashadu why he called it Paagal Naala ( a mad stream)? ?His reply got the three of us a little worried.?

He said – ‘Sir ji, this particular water stream is mad and erratic. ?By afternoon, this stream suddenly gushes down with stones and boulders from the top, making it impossible for vehicles to cross. ?If you are caught on the other side on the return journey, the only option then is to head back and stay in the Army bunkers… till the road and the Naala is cleared’

Keeping our fingers crossed, we crossed the Paagal Naala.?We soon arrived at the Nelong Army check-post.?We were promptly stopped by a smartly dressed Army guard with an AK 47 in hand.?He said - ‘Sir, your permit is only up to here.?From here on is Army area.?And please don’t take any photographs beyond this point’

Respecting his orders, we only took a few pictures near the check-post

By then it was around 3 PM and the air was getting chiller.?The breeze from the surrounding mountains our only companion.?In the midst of nowhere in this barren snow mountains, we wondered how our soldiers brave these extreme elements, to keep us all safe.?Hats of to the Indian Army.?

As we turned to leave, we met a few army jawans and picked up a conversation with a few of them.?After realising we were from Karnataka, one of the army truck drivers pointing to another truck driver who was parking his huge Army truck said – ‘Sir, Krishna is from Karnataka’!

Thousands of miles away, in this remote part of India, we were delighted to meet Krishna and converse in Kannada!!?

A few minutes into the conversation, I asked him which part of Karnataka he was from??He said – ‘Near Mysore’.?

I asked him – ‘Where near Mysore?’

He replied back – ‘I am from a village called Bilikere, near Mysore’

Hearing Bilikere I almost had tears in my eyes … Bilikere is the village that my mother was born too …

Krishna then spent some time with us explaining about how the Army operates in this region. ??

Being a border area, much of the Nelong valley region have been cleared of village settlements and relocated to Bhagori village in the nearby Harsil Valley. ?During the 1962 Indo-China war many of these border villages were brutalised by the Chinese army. ?

Pointing to the distant snow peaked mountains, Krishna said – ‘There are some mysterious mountain passes around here, where even the Army fears to tread.?A few who went on patrols and treks have never returned, nor their bodies found.?There are strange, unexplained powers that exists in these mountains’

Gazing at these distant snow peak mountains, and hearing what Krishna said made us look at these mountains in fear and admiration, for all its hidden mysteries. ?

As were drove back on the 21 Kms path, we were fortunate that the Paagal Nala was still … sane!??With a great sense of appreciation and gratitude for the Indian Army, and satisfaction of having walked on the ancient silk route, we headed back to our hotel. Jai Hind…

Up next… Part 5, concluding part of this series… Stay tuned !

Balu

June 16, 2022

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