10 things you need to know about Thailand before going
Dave Bowling
Asia Development Startup Founder | Polyglot | Master of International Affairs graduate from the Bush School of Government & Public Service at Texas A&M University
Hey all! Just wrapped up a 2 week, 700 km bicycle ride through the mountains of Northern Thailand. A friend of mine who’s a professor in Korea and I rode the Mae Hong Son loop (Chiang Mai-Doi Inthanon-Mae Hong Son-Pai-Chiang Mai) and had an incredible time being challenged by every hill on our way. I didn’t know much about Thailand before, but over the last couple of weeks I’ve learned a bit of basic Thai language + culture, gained some basic knowledge on the economy + history, and will share a bit of insight from my trip.?
Even though Thailand traditionally has a strong manufacturing and export base (it’s been weaker as of late), it is cashing in on its position as a world renown tourism and digital nomad base, where foreigners’ spending will keep parts of the economy afloat. Legalizing marijuana was seen as a big draw to helping to bring more tourists to the country, but many of these tourists' behaviors are largely in conflict with traditional Thai values (and the government is trying to put the cat back in the bag). I see the country is economically at a crossroads; it can continue to double and triple down on tourism, but another major crisis will destroy the fledgling economy, further hurt the Baht’s buying power, and weaken the legitimacy of the government (all of which have been weakened since COVID). Rather than focusing on immature, wild backpackers (I was one of them 10 years ago!) Thailand should aim to bring in expats and help them stay longer-term if they continue to invest in the country and support local jobs. If you've been or have more insight, please comment! And if I'm wrong, please correct me :)
If you plan to visit Thailand, here are 10 things you NEED to know and keep in mind before, and during your trip:
1. Don't diss the king or the Thai Royal Family.
Thais have incredible respect for the Thai King and the Royal Family, even if he married one of his protective guards and had some questionable behavior in the past. (The Daily Mail was blocked for reporting on it, and Thailand has gone after Facebook as well). In Thailand, you will see pictures of the Royal Family and Thai King Rama X on the sides of the road, outside of government buildings, on Thai money, and at small stores. If you visit, don’t make any type of negative comments toward him or the Royal Family as Thailand has VERY STRONG Lese Majeste laws; you will likely end up in jail at his majesty’s pleasure. These laws will likely have little impact on your stay unless YOU make them.?
2. Thais are like still waters; they hold back their power, are not visibly disturbed, and run deep. But they will kick your ass if you test them!
Thailand is about 98% Buddhist, with very small pockets of churches and mosques in areas of cities (and several small churches in the countryside that we passed riding through mountain villages). Thai culture largely strives to maintain face, harmony, respect, and tradition at all times. This means don’t be an asshole and you'll REALLY enjoy yourself. Don't get into shouting matches, don't get into loud arguments in public, and don't lose your temper in traffic. If you make a faux pas, such as showing someone the bottom of your feet or dressing inappropriately, the locals will likely not say anything. Trying your best to understand the depth of social harmony will give you lots of smiles and will make your trip much more rewarding.?Northern Thailand is has many ethnic minorities (Karen, Hmong, Yao, Akha, Lisu, Lahu) each with their own culture, languages, and traditions. The Thai government has many official areas for foreigners to come into contact with them, but the best way to learn is to stay in a local guesthouse--like the one where I took the cover photo! (Nongtao Guesthouse)
Cultural Tip:
Thais primarily greet and show gratitude with a wai, a slight bow + pressing of the hands together at heart level. Even if you can’t speak Thai, this gesture + a smile will open tons of doors during your time there and will endear you to the locals.
3. Cash is (not quite) king.
Credit cards can be used in major establishments and chains, but after purchasing a specific amount, and they may also charge a transaction fee. Local shops only take cash or a Thai electronic payment app tied to a local bank account. Make sure you can get cash there BEFORE you go or bring enough cash for your stay. A typical day locals' style will cost about $15-$20, including food and snacks. If you want to have Western food or check out some of the national parks, budget double. Basic hotels cost about $20/night, and beat a Motel 6 hands down, but will likely be farther from the main tourist areas. If you'd rather stay where the action is (Sukhumvit in Bangkok; the Old City in Chiang Mai), it's about double for a budget hotel.
Local exchange rates are quite good when you exchange for Thai Baht, even in Suvarnabhumi airport (2% difference between spot rate and the markup).?
Credit cards can be used in major establishments and chains, but after purchasing a specific amount, and they may also charge a transaction fee. Local shops only take cash or a Thai electronic payment app tied to a local bank account. Make sure you can get cash there.?
Local exchange rates are quite good when you exchange for Thai Baht, even in Suvarnabhumi airport (2% difference between spot rate and the markup).?
Note: If you want to get at transport card, or exchange money, make sure you have your passport! All official money exchanges require and record your passport info to make it easier to identify cash couriers as well as prevent stored value metro cards as being used for the placement stage of money laundering.
4. The locals' bag of tricks is empty for everyday purchases, but not for alcohol, tourist activities, or in bar areas.
I was not cheated once-I take that back-I DID overpay for tickets to a Muay Thai fight one night in Chiang Mai, and largely it was on me. We didn't get scammed in the sense of they tried to overcharge us in comparison to locals; they just sold us the most expensive product they had and we didn't do our due diligence to see what we were buying beforehand.
My friend and I saw advertisements + prices in English (anything in English will be more expensive since it is aimed at foreigners) for a Friday night fight in Chiang Mai's bar district. We paid about 1,000 Baht (about $30) each and got what we were told the best seats in the house. However, these seats were 4 rows back from the ring. (the first row was judges, and the next few twos were local VIPs). We could have paid about $20 each and got seats one row further back in row 5. Or, we could have gone for free had we just paid for a drink and sat at an outdoor table in the bar near the ring, about 4 or 5 more rows back.
BY FAR the biggest danger I saw was tourists on scooters or motorcycles, wearing almost no clothes + Biden aviators flying down the road and cutting people off. Thais generally will not show outward frustration or animosity to bad driving. The Thai police had several road blocks in Chiang Mai and on the roads outside of Chiang Mai to check licenses and registration. If you don’t want any additional financial pain, make sure you have an international driver’s license + motorcycle license.??
Despite a language barrier and often not asking the price for food, drinks, snacks, and guesthouses, unlike in India and Indonesia, we nearly ALWAYS paid the local price (about $1.75 for a full meal, about $8/night per person for a room with 2 beds). The overall quality of the food/accommodation was perfectly suitable and better than your favorite Motel 6 or Comfort Inn. (they also came with a free breakfast that's not a rock hard bagel!)
That being said, there ARE still scams out there, especially in bars and bar areas (Patpong, Soi Cowboy, Kata Beach, Phuket, and Walking Street Pattaya--never been but have seen videos on YouTube), massive tourist markets, (Chatuchak Weekend Market), and at events aimed at foreigners. Be aware and VERY careful of your surroundings, especially if you go alone. Taxi scams are largely avoidable now due to Grab, but they are more expensive than I remember (about $4-$6 to get across Chiang Mai).?There are also signs warning about snatch + grabs from motorbikes; in short, be aware and don't show off what you can't afford to lose!
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5. Thailand is developing VERY quickly in spurts, without integration in poorer parts of the country (Isan, Mae Hong Son)
Exchange rate between USD and THB (Thai Baht) is about 35 Baht/$1. Makes Thailand cheaper than it was a few years ago when I went in 2020 (I likely got COVID in January that year there).
Rural areas are still very rural and reminded me of my time in Indonesia as a Peace Corps Volunteer. Life is much slower paced.?
Mass Transit exists in Bangkok, (Airport Railway, Skytrain, River Ferries) and works fine to get from A to B. Each line has its own payment system, requires buying a different ticket. Other cities (Singapore, Shanghai, Kuala Lumpur) have integrated payment and ticketing systems with a smart card. Thailand has electronic stored value tickets, but you cannot use them across different systems (BTS Skytrain Rabbit Card cannot be used on the Metro or Airport Railway) Visa cards (tap) can be used on the metro, while the airport railway requires a ticket.?
6. Come and ‘spend’ a while… but not too long!
Thailand is VERY strict with visa enforcement (category, length of time, etc.). Gone are the days when you could teach English for a few months, and do a periodic visa run to Cambodia, Laos, Malaysia, or Myanmar, then around to get another 30 days. Once you enter visa-free, you largely get 30 days/2 weeks (depending on how/where you cross). If you want to stay, you can pay to extend your stay for an additional 30 days MAXIMUM, but you must visit immigration and give them a reason.?
If you overstay, you're rolling the dice!
If the police determine you've overstayed before you arrive at immigration, you will likely be taken to a holding center and then deported with an entry ban.
This could happen at a random traffic stop with a cop checking licenses and passports. Be smart and follow the local laws and customs!?
7. Weed is all over tourist areas, not in villages or local areas.?
Smoking weed (as of Feb. 2024) has been legalized in Thailand for personal use in private areas. In public areas with lots of foreigners, you will smell it and likely see people outside smoking and checking out some of the ‘all you can smoke’ weed buffets, eating edibles/baked goods, and kicking back with a doobie. I didn’t see any locals partaking, but I’d imagine they’d be priced out (if I remember correctly, it was about 1000 Baht / $30USD an hour)…for consideration, the average cost of a local meal is less than 100 Baht.?
Some countries (Singapore, China, Korea) will still charge you with possession of a drug (marijuana) if you have it in your system, regardless of where you’ve consumed it. This means goodbye, job (and likely) goodbye, freedom. If you live in/plan to visit these countries, use your best judgment.
8. Thailand doesn’t air its dirty laundry for tourists to see.
Thailand has suffered from political problems over the last few decades with a strong military largely dictating policy and toppling governments that it sees as unfit to rule. (Not) Fun fact: Thailand has had the most coups (13)–and attempted coups (9)–in recent history. Near the border with Myanmar where I cycled everything looked fine, but there are no doubt major problems (human trafficking, drug trafficking, money laundering) in the Golden Triangle and other unstable parts of the country down South.?
They want you to see the Thai Tourist Police, which is a whitewashed version of the Thai Police created to protect foreigners and limit their interactions with the real Thai Police.?
Thai Tourist Police phone numbers are EVERYWHERE and encourage foreigners to call in case they have problems or are scammed. The one time I’ve needed to use it, after getting scammed at a ping pong show many moons ago, it worked as a threat and likely saved my ass. ?
10. Happy Endings abound. 28% of visitors plan to come back again in the same year!?
Thailand is one of the largest tourist destinations in the world. With white sandy beaches, warm weather year round, delicious food, and kind locals, it is very inviting to first time and frequent visitors. It was over 30*C (87*F) every day, so be careful if you are eating meat that has been sitting out all day. I did not get sick, but still take proper precautions if you are not accustomed to the food and level of spice.
Whether you’re on the beaches of Phuket, people watching in Soi Cowboy, or on a motorcycle trip in Doi Inthanon National Park you will see people from all over the world and hear many different languages. (Primarily English, Russian, Korean, Mandarin, and Japanese).??
Most visitors who return are within Asia (Malaysia, the Philippines, China, Singapore), but it has been a very popular vacation spot for Northern Europeans, especially in winter.??
Many Thais do speak a BIT of English to make communication easier, especially in restaurants, bars, and hotels. However, the Thais do REALLY appreciate foreigners trying to go the extra mile with a bit of Thai (I know I’m repeating myself here!) You will never know what kind of a lasting impact you will make, but that doesn't mean you shouldn't do your best.
If you travel right, the people of Thailand can be incredibly kind, friendly, and helpful–and overall they want you to have incredible memories of the country.?
Thanks for reading! And get out there and do something incredible! :D