一位優雅紳士的獨門“時尚元氣”An elegant gentleman’s unique “fashion vitality”

一位優雅紳士的獨門“時尚元氣”An elegant gentleman’s unique “fashion vitality”

Gabriela Martinez Gabriela Martinez

Gabriela Martinez

Head of Cultural E-commerce & Activation Marketing at Shake to Win

发布日期: 2016年5月27日
+ 关注
時尚和生活的距離，永遠都是那麼遠又那麼近。 如果你不曾為那縹緲的氣息所迷戀，那一切都是築夢一場，只有時刻擁有心中那份對時尚的迷戀，才能自我激發不斷源泉的靈感和創作欲，體驗一把靈與魂的旋轉跳躍。
The distance between fashion and life is always one so close but yet so far. If you haven’t become infatuated by the ethereal atmosphere, and it was all a dream, at that point you can only use what came from your fashion obsessed mind, to be able to self-stimulate a constant source of inspiration and creative instinct, and personally experience a leaping rotation of your spirit and soul.
在一個微風和煦的週六夜晚，我們與Mr. Fox約見在新樂路的Constellation酒吧。因為是第一次正式採訪， 二人早已點上一杯酒，盤算著早已在心中埋下無數預設和預判，期待驚喜的發現。
On a warm breezes Satursday night, we met Mr.fox in the Constellation Pub which is located on Xinle Road. Because it was the first time we interviewed him, we had already ordered wines,thought about numerous assumptions and  pre-judgements  and expected surprising answers.
Constellation Pub
“ 紙醉金迷的上流社會，聲色犬馬的靡靡之音，
來到了這裡，便仿佛置身于《唐頓莊園》，
舉手投足，唯有優雅，
最懂威士忌的，唯有翩翩英倫紳士。“
座標：新樂路襄陽北路，上海法租界
"A high class society of luxury and dissipation, full of decadent sensual pleasures,
Being here, feels like being in "Downton Abbey"
One’s every moment, only elegant,
Like whiskey, most understood, only by the elegant British gentleman most understood. "
Coordinates: Xinle Road, and Xiangyang Road, Shanghai’s French Concession.
手擲長柄黑傘，經典黑色西裝白色襯衫， 紳士身姿穿過擁擠的座位，朝我們揮手，另人眼前一亮是他的復古橢圓圓邊皮帽，在昏暗的暖黃燈光映襯下，一切都融合的正正好，教人有種時間與空間的錯覺，像是跳進了王家衛的電影裡：這份濃烈的個人復古色彩與這個老派倫敦紳士威士忌酒吧的空間交織在一起，空氣中氤氳著淡淡的樟木味與香氣滿溢的幹邑，時間也放慢了流淌，在夜幕降臨的7點整時整分， 一位紳士，為誰而來。
A Hand holding a long-handled black umbrella, a classic black suit, a white shirt, a gentleman’s image goes through the crowded seats, waving at us, and the other man wearing an oval shaped fur hat, set off against the dim warm yellow light, everything in a perfect combination, teaching people a kind of illusion about time and space, it seems as if stepping into one of Wong KarWai’s films: an intense character wearing old-fashioned clothes contrasted with a classic London gentlemen in a whiskey bar space, dense air with a touch of camphor wood flavor and aroma overflowing cognac, the time also slows down its flow, 7’o clock, night has arrived, who’s this gentlement waiting for?
“我從未把從事自己熱愛的事情稱之為工作，甚至是事業”
“I never engage the things that I love to prove myself competent at my job, even for my career”.
在被問及他目前的創作事業時，他承認自己也曾和一些時尚品牌在創意上進行合作，例如服裝設計顧問，但他不認為這是一份事業。 和品牌合作就意味著“限制與”“無趣”，在商業目標驅使下，一具成模的產品都失去了原始設計的意義，失去了匠心與獨一無二，設計也就失去了鮮活的靈魂。只有真正的“打量”每一個個體，才是他熱愛的事情。獨特的剪裁、用色和布料，讓創意真正的活絡起來。
When asked about his current creative career, he admits himself has cooperated in different ways withsomebigfashion brands in the industry, such as a clothing design advisor, but he doesn't believe it counts as a career: working with big brands means  “restrictions “and “boredom”. The business objectives have made them lost the original meaning of design, lost the sense of uniqueness and the spirit of freshness- it only takes truly observingeach individual, tobe abletoknowthe true meaning of creativity. Unique cut, colors and garments let creativity shine.
“你知道現在的人為何不知道如何穿搭，如何讓自己以有品味且優雅的紳士形象呈現在人前嗎？”我很好奇地看著他，他認真的告訴我，那是因為，我們將自己禁錮在各種形式的忙碌中：工作，手機電子遊戲，社交。。。我們從來不曾真正慢下來，去用心思考； 在忙碌中，我們或許獲得了時間金錢或快感，但我們失去的卻是澆灌美麗鮮花的靈感養分。時尚也是一門藝術，能速成的不是藝術，而是商業。
“Do you know why the present men don’t know how to outfit themselves, how to create the image of refined and tasteful gentlemen in front of people?” I curiously asked him, he replied seriously; it’s because we have confined ourselves into all kinds of busy forms: work, cellphone, computer games, social relations… we never take the time to slow down, to earnestly reflect on the issue; in our busy lives, we might have obtained the pleasure of time or money, but we have lost the beautiful sense of watering fresh flowers with inspirational nutrients.  Fashion is an art, if it’s quickly created it’s not art, it’s business.
“我熱愛它的方式便是，每天無時無刻不在思考如何穿搭，它已經融入在了我的血液裡，成為了我最日常的習慣。”Mr. Fox如是說。
“My way of loving (fashion) is; everyday at all times thinking about how to dress, it has already entered into my veins, becoming my most common routine.”Mr. fox said.
“我從來不讀時尚讀物，真正能激勵自己的其實還是自己”
“I never read fashion magazine, what really motivates me its myself”
每個創意人都會自己獨特異與常人的方式，在日常的生活中或者不經意的場景中，汲取新的設計靈感。我們也試圖通過這樣的提問去挖掘一些有趣的東西，但結果意外的是，他指了一下自己的腦袋，自信的說這是一種流淌在血液中的“天賦”，所有的成型創意和生活中的靈感源泉，都是“二手創意”，相信自己是獨特，無法被替代的。
Each creative person will own unique creative differences with ordinary people, in ways of which in daily life or random scenarios obtain new design inspirations. We also try to dig through this questioning some interesting stuff, but the result unexpectedly is, it points directly to our own head, confidence says it’s a sort of flow coming from our veins “talent”, all of the creative molding and life’s inspiration sources, all are “second handed creativity”, believe himself is unique, irreplaceable. 
他不害怕被模仿，因為他很清楚的明白，任何一個好的創意都會隨時面臨著被複製，尤其是在中國版權意識薄弱的情況下。他喜歡去研究，可以每天在馬路上漫步好幾個小時，他深知，靈感來源於生活，好的設計不在於用料有多貴，品牌有多國際化，而在於，你能用一件生活中不起眼的小部件裝點成令人大為讚歎的設計： 銀勺也可以用來做外套雙排扣，鑰匙串做成的項鍊也能成為風尚穿搭的點睛之筆。“能被複製的只是形，而不會是真正的精髓。”源源不絕的靈感，在於你對美的思考與對生活的理解。
He is not afraid to be imitated, because he understands clearly, any good creation can be copied at any time, especially in China where patent rights are so weak. He likes to investigate, walking every day on the streets for a couple of hours, he knows deeply, inspiration comes from life, good design doesn’t derive from expensive materials, or international renown of brands, but it comes from how you can take small details and transform them into awe inspiring design: a silver spoon can be used to make a double-vested jacket, a necklace created from a keychain can be used to add the final touch to a fashion attire. “Only the form can be copied, but not the essence”. Endless supply of inspiration comes from your understanding and thinking of life.
穿搭是一個奇妙的組合，就像烹飪一樣，不同的食材，調味品，烹飪的順序，掌握的火候，品嘗美食的心情與場合，都會給你帶來不一樣的感官體驗。他不會輕易的給你穿搭的建議，也不會輕易地讚美你說，穿上這件衣服後你會變得很美，這件衣服的顏色、剪裁與布料的結合，還有著裝適當的場景，當一切都恰當其分的碰撞在一起的時候，才能充分發揮出這件衣服的設計靈魂，並賦予你最大程度的明媚動人。
An outfit is a wonderful combination, just like cooking; different ingredients, flavors, cooking order, cooking ability, taste mood and environment, all together they give you a unique sensory experience. He cannot give you an easy suggestion on how to dress, can’t give you an easy praise on how wearing this or that garment will make you look more beautiful. The color, garment, or cut combination, and adequate environment towear it, when it all fits adequately then and only then the clothes will reveal the original inspiration of the deisgn, and will give you the highest degree of beauty.
紅色外套（紐扣）
Red color jacket (button)
女士花領結
Tire
此款老北京布鞋获国际学生设计大大赛头奖，以“京”和“沪”为设计亮点。
It won the first prize in international students design competition which featured in Traditional Chinese elements. The character Jing and Hu can be seen on the front which represents culture and history and fashion and finance respectively.
“你覺得男性，尤其是喜歡女鞋、太陽眼鏡的直男在時尚圈是如何得以一席之地呢？”
“How do you think men, specially straight men, can have a place in the fashion circles?” 
出於好奇，不經意間向他拋出一個並不在預設的問題， 他哈哈哈大笑後說，我自認我並不帥，但是我一直很清楚什麼是我喜歡，什麼是我不喜歡的。 “作為一個Stylist，要像傳道士一樣，孜孜不倦且無時無刻的像別人展示自己的穿著和品味。”他承認在時尚界存在很多同性取向的男性，他們富有才華且善於創作，我尊重他們並欣賞他們。
Out of curiosity, he inadvertently threw an unexpected question to him, he laughed hard and then replied, I admit I’m not handsome, but I’ve always had very clear the things I like and those I don’t. Being a stylist should be like being a priest, diligently at all times to show other people their dress and taste. He admits there are a lot of gay in the fashion work, they are very talented and creative, I enjoy and respect their work.

有趣的是任何一種生物，雄性都比雌性更善於裝扮，他們有更鮮豔的羽毛，更高大的體型，甚至會去裝扮自己和自己的巢穴，就是為了吸引異性而存在，這是生物進化的必然，這也就是為什麼，最美麗的女裝設計師一定會是男性。
Interestingly in the nature world, males are constantly bettered “dressed” than females, they have brighter plumage, bigger bodies, even adorn themselves and their nets, all to attract the opposite sex and be able to survive, this is a must in the evolutionary process, it is why, the most beautiful female stylist must be a man.
男人能感知到女人最原始的美，懂得把握怎樣的分寸才最大程度地凸顯那份美與性感。 對女人最深刻的美與理解，永遠是來自于男人內心最深的原始渴望與幻想。
Men can perceive woman’s most primitive beauty, understand how to grasp the sense of proportion to bring out the highest beauty and sexiness.  The biggest beauty and understanding in woman, always comes from men’s deepest carnal desires and fantasies.  
真是巧妙又機智的回答，不禁佩服。
Really clever and witty answer, I cannot help but to admire.

聊的太多，時間太快，突然才發現即將午夜。和幽默、有內容的人聊天，總覺得時間不夠用 。
你喜歡這次的故事麼？或者，你希望看到哪些人群的故事，歡迎留言，你悄悄地告訴馬蒂內斯小姐哦。
We’ve talked for a long while, time really flies, suddenly I realize it’s close to midnight. With humorous and smart people talk time is always not enough. What kind of story do you like? Or, what kind of content would you like us to publish, leave us feedback, you can quietly tell Miss Martinez.

要查看或添加评论，请登录

Gabriela Martinez的更多文章

社区洞察

其他会员也浏览了