Belinda Zakrzewska, Ph.D的动态

I just received the news that my paper, co-authored with Mike and Stephan, has now been published in its final version of record and is open access! Perfect timing as Peru has once again been recognized as the World’s Leading Culinary Destination by the 2024 World Travel Awards, a title it has proudly held every year since 2012 (except in 2020 when Italy took the crown). This recognition owes much to the creativity and innovation of local chefs who have combined fine-dining techniques they learned abroad with the ingredients and traditions of local Indigenous communities. These chefs are rightly celebrated for their talent and for putting Peruvian cuisine on the world map, but the impact on the Indigenous producers and communities, who are the true foundation of this culinary legacy, is often overlooked. Yes, many Indigenous producers receive fair compensation for their ingredients, but often, their traditions and knowledge are uncompensated. Also, they are unable to be part of this market as consumers (although it is their culture on the table) because the prices are expensive. As one journalist said, dining at some of Peru’s top restaurants can be more expensive than eating at a prestigious establishment in Europe. Going to these restaurants can be far out of reach for most locals (not just Indigenous Peoples). Criticizing aspects of Peruvian cuisine can be risky. Back in 2012, Peruvian writer Iván Thays faced significant backlash after writing in El País that Peruvian food is “indigestible, “unhealthy,” and that most dishes are “a firecracker of carbohydrates”. In 2016, Radio Ambulante wrote a post titled "Think Twice Before You Insult Peruvian Food". Criticizing Peruvian cuisine is often frowned upon because, as Raul Matta and other scholars have noted, it represents one of the few sources of national pride that unites us as a country. This is particularly significant given Peru’s history of deep divisions rooted in the enduring legacies of colonialism, If anyone is interested in learning more, you can find the link to our paper below where we talk about the dynamics of cultural appropriation and cultural appreciation that take place in the crafting of this new cuisine spearheaded by local chefs. Always happy to engage in further conversations about this important topic (especially if you are a fellow Peruvian!).