In the Moment with Kelly Slater
Surfer Stories is a brand new book which focuses on the essence of surf culture - telling stories.
Twelve stories of surfers by twelve surfing writers.
You might recognize the stokie on the cover...
I pulled into the tube with Kelly Slater to reveal some insights from the inside looking out.
X-Files creator Chris Carter pulled in deep with me and offered his perspective on my ride through life.
Claudia Lebenthal is one of the top sports stylists in New York City and brings her own unique sensibility to the world of surf - get the book - it is a beautiful companion to our surf culture.
https://bit.ly/3Dc8K2M
Here are my final words about Kelly Slater:
"In this complex world of ours, where we are always thinking, calculating, planning and analyzing, it is reassuring to know that for us surfers, hidden inside the tube is a simple place where we can let our instincts take over, where we can react rather than plan. It is a rare refuge where we are truly disconnected from the confusion of the world, from our cell phones, social media and computers.
This is where Kelly Slater lives, in the moment, in a world of flow, where sensations are sharpened, the immediacy of life is brought into focus, and all that matters is to reach for the light that is shining ahead, pulled along by an invisible hand, absolutely and unequivocally confident that it will take him to where he needs to be."
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