Abode Virtual Design

Wainscoting is a classic architectural feature that has been seen in residences and buildings since the English Renaissance, which began in the late 1400s. Wainscoting refers to the addition of wood paneling on the interior of a wall. It originally began to serve as an added layer of insulation. Art and armor were hung on top, and as time went on, the panelling got decorative, especially depending upon the decor style and time period. The original wainscoting went high up the wall - 8’-10’. These days, we do see it stopping higher up on the wall on occasion, but we more frequently think of wainscoting as stopping around the 1/3 to 1/2 point on a wall. It includes a traditional raised panel layout, but recessed panelling, beadboard, board and batten, and shiplap are all types of wainscoting. Wainscoting can make a space feel more formal - just how formal is dependent upon which style you go with. Raised panel will feel more formal than a beadboard or board and batten, for example. A benefit to wainscoting is that it will add durability to the walls, as wood can take more wear than drywall, making it a good choice for high traffic hallways or stairways, mudrooms or even kid’s playrooms and family rooms. If you’re considering adding wainscoting to a space, the first two steps are considering which style fits the architecture of your home and your decorating style the best, and what height and layout works best with the area you’re looking to add the wainscoting to. In terms of height, you likely have in mind if you want to do something on the higher side or lower. When you’re determining the exact height, its best to study your space and see if there is something existing that you can base the height on - whether thats window trim, an existing chair rail or where a stair railing meets the wall. If not, you want to aim for about 1/3 of the way up the wall to make your ceilings look higher. If that proportion seems off, or you have higher ceilings, you may want to go a little higher, but avoid cutting the room at the halfway point or too close to that. If you’re looking for more interior design tips check out our Home Design Guide, a FREE downloadable e-book filled with design tips and info! We also offer virtual residential interior design services and would love to help you with your next home project - whether it’s a kitchen or bath renovation, a living room or anything in between! Please reach out via comment below, DM on social or via email ([email protected]). More information can be found on our website, abodevirtual.com

Block prints have been trending recently - but they are not new at all. In fact, block prints have been a way of producing printed fabrics since antiquity. In block printing, engraved wooden blocks are stamped onto the fabric. Block prints are also available in wallpaper - if its a look you love, you can wallpaper a room, and add in block printed fabrics. For smaller touches, see some accents on our blog https://lnkd.in/eamjgc9P If you’re looking for more interior design tips check out our Home Design Guide, a FREE downloadable e-book filled with design tips and info! We also offer virtual residential interior design services and would love to help you with your next home project - whether it’s a kitchen or bath renovation, a living room or anything in between! Please reach out via comment below, DM on social or via email ([email protected]). More information can be found on our website, abodevirtual.com

Have you heard of the unexpected red theory? The theory is that in any design scheme, regardless of the overall color scheme or design style of the space, you can (and should) add in a pop of red. Not only will it always work with the scheme, it will actually make your design and your room look that much more interesting. I love unexpected elements in a design - so I am all for this theory. The wonderful thing is that we’re not talking about making a large featured investment item being red. I’m imagining a red accent chair, piece of art, or unique accessory piece. The beauty here is that you can test out the unexpected red theory in your space without it being a big commitment. So, would you try the Unexpected Red Theory? If you’re looking for more interior design tips check out our Home Design Guide, a FREE downloadable e-book filled with design tips and info! We also offer virtual residential interior design services and would love to help you with your next home project - whether it’s a kitchen or bath renovation, a living room or anything in between! Please reach out via comment below, DM on social or via email ([email protected]). More information can be found on our website, abodevirtual.com

Our last post was all about Natural Rug Materials: Wool, Silk, Jute & Sisal and the semi-synthetic Viscose. Today, we’ll dive into details on manmade rug materials. NYLON Nylon had been one of the most popular synthetic rug materials - it’s very affordable, it’s durable and it cleans very well. It is more frequently seen in wall to wall carpets - known as cut goods, which can be cut down and serged or bound into an area rug. POLYPROPYLENE Polypropylene has surged in popularity over the last decade or so, and is becoming more popular than nylon, especially where low-cost area rugs are concerned. It’s very affordable and is considered durable, though it does break down over time. An unfortunate negative about low-cost polypropylene rugs is that they are considered “throwaway rugs” - they only last a few years. Because they are a petroleum-based product, they are not environmentally friendly and cannot be recycled and will not break down quickly in a landfill. POLYESTER Polyester is a lesser-used material, in my opinion. Similarly to nylon and polypropylene, it is affordable. Two unique perks to polyester from the previous two materials is that it can be made from recycled materials and can also be hypoallergenic, so if those are concerns for you and your family, this may be the best route for you. One downfall is that the material may flatten over time which may not make it the best option for high traffic areas, where the path that gets walked over the most will show after a while with little recourse. ACRYLIC Acrylic is a newer material in the industry, however it is one that is changing the game. Its incredibly durable - so much so that this material is a top indoor/outdoor material. It’s colorfast, highly cleanable - with bleach, in fact, regardless of the color of the carpet. Acrylic can be fabricated into various rug styles, but when it’s tufted, it feels exactly like a luxurious wool carpet. Such carpets cannot be left outdoors completely exposed, but they can be outdoors under a covered patio for example. As the technology is becoming more established and widespread, high costs are fortunately starting to drop on acrylic area rugs, and availability is also becoming greater. Acrylic area rugs are easily my top recommendation for synthetic fiber rugs. If you’re looking for more interior design tips check out our Home Design Guide, a FREE downloadable e-book filled with design tips and info! We also offer virtual residential interior design services and would love to help you with your next home project - whether it’s a kitchen or bath renovation, a living room or anything in between! Please reach out via comment below, DM on social or via email ([email protected]). More information can be found on our website,?abodevirtual.com

Shopping for a rug may sound easy: determine your size and your style, and then start looking through your options! However, once you start looking at materials, you may realize that there is an enormous depth of options. The material that the rug is made from will go a long way in how the rug wears and cleans. In most projects, wool is my go-to material for rugs. When it is sourced and woven in rugs made of reasonable quality, it is incredibly durable. In fact, well fabricated wool rugs can be passed down for generations if they are well cared for. Which brings me to my next benefit of wool: it cleans very well. When you think of where wool comes from and what it does for the animal it covers (keep them warm and dry by repelling water) you understand that those characteristics carry over very well for carpets and floor coverings as well. Repelling water to keep sheep dry means that it will also intrinsically repel stains, dirt and spills. Keep in mind that it doesn’t make it impervious, but it will help with cleanablity. Wool area rugs will be more of an investment piece than manmade materials, but their longevity will make up for that initial investment. Silk rugs are another heirloom quality item. They are more expensive than wool rugs, and a finer item, however they are almost always indicative of a higher construction quality as well. These rugs can absolutely be passed down for years and years as well. Silk has the reputation of being more delicate than wool, and that is true in some ways. The fibers themselves are quite strong, and when they are woven tightly into a rug, they wear incredibly well. Silk is sensitive to sunlight, so that is a concern. Because these rugs are often thinner than their wool counterparts, they are a fabulous option for heated floors. If you’re interested in silk, I highly suggest looking at the resale or vintage market, as you can find great options there. Jute and sisal have a beautiful, natural, casual appeal. As long as the weave is tight, they also can be quite durable and long lasting. If the weave is loose and the fibers are shorter, that is when the fibers can start to fray and the rug can look messy. There are a few cons with rugs of these similar materials - they are scratchy underfoot, both barefoot and in socks, so if you are a “shoes-off” household it may not be the most comfortable. Also, they can be problematic with pet claws. I’m including viscose on this list but its actually a semi-synthetic material, made from tree wood pulp. It has a shiny, silk-like appearance, however it its not great for high-traffic areas and it does not do well around water. You do see rugs made 100% from viscose - those are much more suitable for a bedroom or adult-only study or lounge. Most frequently, it’s seen mixed in with wool to add sheen into the pattern of an area rug. The amount that is mixed in and the pattern will determine how suitable it will be for a higher traffic or high-use area in your home.

There’s not always a whole lot of opportunity for accessorizing in the dining room, so a dining table centerpiece does need to make a big impact. Today, I’m sharing # tips for selecting, as well as a few favorite items that I’ve found over the years. Let’s jump right in! 1. Keep it low When you’re actually using the dining table, you’re engaging in a nice dinner with conversation. The absolute last thing you want to be doing is putting up a wall in the middle of the dining table and cutting guests off from one another. Even when you’re staging the room’s decor when it’s not in use, you don’t want a center piece to be so high that it’s getting too close to the chandelier and taking up too much space. I’d say keep it around 12” high and no more. 2. Less (pieces) is more I also prefer selecting a centerpiece that is 1-3 larger statement items rather than a grouping of many small items. Why? It will look less cluttered. It makes it easier to move and place back when cleaning or if you prefer to serve a dinner family-style on the table. Also, you want to make sure there is ample room for place settings at the table. 3. Embrace drama As I mentioned before, because the dining table centerpiece is one of the best places to accessorize and add impact - so let’s embrace drama! Highlight your accent colors, add in texture or shine. If you're interested in more design tips, head to our website abodevirtual.com and download our free Home Design Guide.

Over the years I’ve worked with countless clients who were planning on either refinishing existing hardwood floors or installing new ones (whether traditional hardwood or engineered), and quite often, there is a light vs dark debate. Light floors are definitely having a moment, however clients aren’t always sure if they’re the right fit for them. Light-toned flooring, whether its bleached, light-toned oak, or even a pale grey tone, will feel more casual than darker flooring, so that is something to factor in as you’re making your decision. Additionally, if you want it to be very light without any orange undertone you’ll need to bleach the wood prior to staining if you’re using traditional hardwood. This is doable, but it is a multi-step process which will add time and cost. Lighter floors look great with a matte finish and truly hide scratches, dirt and other imperfections well. This makes them much more family and pet-friendly. You’ll still be able to see the scratches, but they won’t be quite as noticeable as they would be on darker flooring. Darker floors tend to feel a little more formal and traditional than their lighter counterparts. I believe they look just as beautiful in a matte or glossy finish, however glossy floors will show scratches more, which in addition to darker stains showing scratches more, means that you need to be more mindful if this is your choice. Secondly, dirt, dust and pet hair tend to show up more against darker floors, so they will also require more upkeep in terms of day-to-day maintenance. If you’re interested in more in depth information about different types of flooring, head to our shop page on our website and download our free Home Design Guide, a 25 page e-book filled with tips, tricks and more design info! If you’re looking for personalized design help, we offer virtual design services, also available for purchase via our website!

There is a notion that has become quite pervasive over the years - that dark walls make a room feel small. Well, I have good news, especially for those of us that love using dark colors in our homes. This is a myth. Dark colors on their own do not make a room feel small. Dark colors absorb light, and end up receding back in a design (whereas light colors reflect light and feel more noticeable) and as the dark colors recede, the room can feel larger instead of smaller. What people may be reacting to is the cozy, enveloping feeling that dark rooms give. If you’re struggling with your space feeling too small, its best to turn to scale of the furniture that you have in the space and the way its laid out. This can have a much bigger impact than the color that you paint the walls. If you’re struggling with anything from paint colors to furniture scale and layout we’d love to help! Feel free to reach out to us via commenting below, DMs on social or email ([email protected]). If you’re looking for more design tips, head to our website store and download our free Home Design Guide?- a 25 page e-book filled with tips, tricks and more!

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At first thought, painting a wall white sounds simple. Then, when you’re faced with “which white?” you realize that it’s not simple at all. You can find an “ultra-white” that has minimal undertones, but that will often feel too stark. So, as you’re deciding which white is best for you, it’s best to try and determine what undertone is best for your design and the type of light your space gets. Are you looking for something cooler with gray or blue undertones? Or something warmer with creamy or yellow undertones? You can also lean towards a blush. It’s important to choose several options that you like, and then do samples of the colors in your space. This will help you see what it looks like in the space with your belongings, and, more importantly, see how the white changes as the lighting changes throughout the day. Below I’m sharing my three favorite white paint colors, as seen in Abode Virtual Design’s Home Design Guide - our free downloadable guide that is filled with my favorite and most-used design tips! Benjamin Moore OC-65 Chantilly Lace This is my number 1?go-to, especially if you’re looking for a paint with minimal undertone, but isn’t going to pull too gray. It may lean cool for some, but I don’t find it to be stark, and I love that there isn’t any yellow undertone to it. Benjamin Moore OC-17 White Dove White Dove is another classic, but it’s warmer than Chantilly Lace. In some lights it will still feel quite neutral. It has creamy undertones. Benjamin Moore OC-45 Swiss Coffee Swiss Coffee is the warmest of the three, with green, gray and yellow undertones. The benefit though, is that it typically won’t lean too far one way or another. Instead, it feels quite rich. Which white is your favorite? For more information on our design services, and to find our free e-book, head to www.abodevirtual.com.