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What are the best ways to test and evaluate the biodegradability and performance of biodegradable textiles?

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Biodegradable textiles are fabrics that can decompose naturally under certain conditions, such as exposure to microorganisms, moisture, and oxygen. They offer potential benefits for reducing environmental impact, waste management, and circular economy. However, not all biodegradable textiles are created equal, and some may have trade-offs in terms of performance, durability, and safety. Therefore, it is important to test and evaluate the biodegradability and performance of biodegradable textiles using reliable and standardized methods. In this article, you will learn about some of the best ways to do so.

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1 Biodegradability tests

Biodegradability tests measure how fast and how much a textile material can degrade under specific conditions. There are different types of biodegradability tests, such as aerobic, anaerobic, composting, soil burial, and marine. Each test simulates a different environment and has different parameters, such as temperature, humidity, pH, and inoculum. The results of biodegradability tests can be expressed as the percentage of weight loss, carbon dioxide production, or biogas generation over a certain period of time. Biodegradability tests can help you compare the biodegradability of different materials and assess their compliance with relevant standards and regulations.

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Stephanie Steele

Textiles Sustainability Specialist | Organic Food Growing | Food-Fibre-Fashion Communicator
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The available tests suggest that claims are rigorously controlled, but there is still a lack of regulation on claims of "100% biodegradable" stated on labels. This term is in its infancy and so requires a framework alongside the testing. Though tests seem to be available, labelling is not explicit in instruction as to how the textile biodegrades. While this must come across in communications from the brand to consumer, due diligence in doubling up on this information should be of utmost importance, otherwise a textile able to degrade in only anaerobic (no oxygen) environments may be put in an aerobic (oxygen rich) environment.

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2 Performance tests

Performance tests evaluate how well a textile material can meet the functional and aesthetic requirements of a specific application. There are different aspects of performance, such as tensile strength, abrasion resistance, color fastness, moisture management, thermal insulation, and antimicrobial activity. Performance tests can involve physical, mechanical, chemical, or biological methods, depending on the property to be measured. Performance tests can help you determine the suitability and quality of a biodegradable textile for a given end-use and identify the potential trade-offs or challenges associated with its degradation.

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Stephanie Steele

Textiles Sustainability Specialist | Organic Food Growing | Food-Fibre-Fashion Communicator
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At the very basic technical level, a biodegradable material is one produced from natural fibres without any synthetic chemical inputs. The performance indicators here would be that the fibre and resulting textile act according to their presupposed properties, and then are additionally able to biodegrade in one or a number of environments. The performance tests stated are separate to the functionality of biodegradability, in that they refer to the fibre/textile/material characteristics - not whether they can beneficially and effectively biodegrade. Performance tests for biodegradability should only regard the ability for the textile to withstand its normal functions, and then biodegrade afterwards.

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3 Life cycle assessment

Life cycle assessment (LCA) is a holistic and systematic method to assess the environmental impacts of a textile product throughout its life cycle, from raw material extraction to disposal or recycling. LCA can quantify the inputs and outputs of materials, energy, water, emissions, and wastes at each stage of the life cycle and evaluate their potential effects on different environmental indicators, such as global warming, acidification, eutrophication, and human toxicity. LCA can help you compare the environmental performance of different biodegradable textiles and identify the hotspots and improvement opportunities along the value chain.

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Stephanie Steele

Textiles Sustainability Specialist | Organic Food Growing | Food-Fibre-Fashion Communicator
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It is known that LCAs do not always consider the full lifecycle of a textile, and are not wholly "holistic" because of this. Dependent on what body is making the assessment, most textile end-of-life scenarios are avoided, which is alongside the removal of any raw material extraction data, both of which significantly impact the overall LCA score. Bearing in mind that biodegradability is determined by the raw material source and by the end of life, before anything in between, then an LCA isn't really a systematic method to determine this. It can help to identify hotspots, such as when information is missing, but it shouldn't be an indicator of effective biodegradability.

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4 User feedback

User feedback is a valuable source of information to evaluate the satisfaction and preferences of the consumers or end-users of a biodegradable textile product. User feedback can be collected through surveys, interviews, focus groups, or online reviews, and can cover topics such as comfort, fit, appearance, durability, functionality, and environmental awareness. User feedback can help you understand the needs and expectations of your target market and improve the design and communication of your biodegradable textile product.

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Stephanie Steele

Textiles Sustainability Specialist | Organic Food Growing | Food-Fibre-Fashion Communicator
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The user feedback is focused here on performance elements, rather than biodegradability factors. While a product should be evaluated for its performance, especially if it is coated with biodegradable polymers or the material itself is less abrasion resistant (as with some natural fibres), then user feedback can play a role in better developing products. Though if user feedback is to be gained on the experience of biodegrading textiles and products, then they need to participate in a trial - or the brand must be willing to give away product. It's all well and good a brand saying that something biodegrades, and providing your customer with a survey, but real life scenario feedback should be obtained to truly understand the system.

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5 Certification and labeling

Certification and labeling are voluntary tools that can help you verify and communicate the biodegradability and performance of your biodegradable textile product to the stakeholders and consumers. Certification is a process of third-party verification that a product meets certain criteria or standards related to biodegradability, performance, or other aspects of sustainability. Labeling is a visual representation of the certification or a claim that a product has a certain attribute or benefit. Certification and labeling can help you increase the credibility and transparency of your biodegradable textile product and differentiate it from the competitors.

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Stephanie Steele

Textiles Sustainability Specialist | Organic Food Growing | Food-Fibre-Fashion Communicator
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As with testing, certification is expensive. Any small brands putting energy into creating a biodegradable product from a biodegradable textile perhaps cannot legally inform their customers of this unless they provide certification. It ensures that corporate businesses are more easily able to adopt certifications, so pushing any smaller competitors out of the way. Small businesses are more likely to experiment with biodegradability as a regenerative or circular solution, and so would be more willing to adapt to customer needs than a large company would.

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6 Best practices

Best practices are recommended guidelines or principles that can help optimize the testing and evaluation of your biodegradable textile product. When selecting tests and methods, consider the purpose, scope, and context of your evaluation. Moreover, adhere to relevant standards and protocols for conducting and reporting the tests and methods. Additionally, use accredited laboratories or certified bodies for conducting or verifying the tests and methods. Furthermore, compare the results of your tests and methods with similar or alternative products or materials. Finally, interpret and communicate the results of your tests and methods in a clear, accurate, and honest way.

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7 Here’s what else to consider

This is a space to share examples, stories, or insights that don’t fit into any of the previous sections. What else would you like to add?

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What are the best ways to test and evaluate the biodegradability and performance of biodegradable textiles?

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1 Biodegradability tests

2 Performance tests

3 Life cycle assessment

4 User feedback

5 Certification and labeling

6 Best practices

7 Here’s what else to consider

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