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What are the steps to creating a zero-waste fashion collection?

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Zero-waste fashion is a design approach that aims to eliminate textile waste from the production process. It can be achieved by using techniques such as pattern cutting, fabric manipulation, and modular design. Zero-waste fashion can reduce environmental impact, save resources, and create innovative and unique garments. In this article, you will learn the steps to creating a zero-waste fashion collection, from planning to finishing.

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1 Plan your concept

Before you start designing, you need to have a clear idea of what you want to achieve with your zero-waste collection. Think about your target market, your aesthetic, your materials, and your message. You may want to research existing zero-waste designers, such as Timo Rissanen, Holly McQuillan, and Daniel Silverstein, for inspiration and guidance. You may also want to consider the season, the occasion, and the functionality of your garments.

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Emily Blumenthal

Host of Handbag Designer 101 Podcast, Creator of the Handbag Awards, Author of Handbag Designer 101, Professor of Entrepreneurship, Founder of Savvy Suzanna
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Before you do absolutely anything, know if there is a market for what you are making. Many designers make claims they are creating a zero waste collection but there is little or no demand for their items; or they have priced themselves out of the market with the lack of economies of scale. Also understanding if your customer finds zero-waste something of interest for them to pay a premium for the potential that you may have to pay retail for your materials since you are buying only what you need.

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Hayden Ng

President of ASEAN Fashion Designers Showcase l ASEAN International Fashion Week Fashion
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Creating a zero-waste fashion collection involves a comprehensive approach that considers every stage of the design and production process. The initial step is to prioritize sustainable materials, opting for organic fabrics and recycled fibers. Designers should focus on patterns that maximize fabric usage and minimize waste during cutting. Employing innovative cutting techniques like zero-waste pattern-making ensures that every piece of fabric is utilized. Additionally, adopting a made-to-order or on-demand production model helps prevent overstock and excess inventory. Throughout the collection's lifecycle, it's crucial to educate consumers about responsible garment care and disposal.

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Rocío Evenett ??????

Feral soft goods engineer stitching ideas into products ready to sell in the creator economy | Fashion Industry 4.0 Technology & manufacture education for designers from a USA Micro-Factory
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Start by asking yourself WHY you want to have a zero-waste collection: -Is it because you want to showcase your creations as a hobby? - Is it because a zero-waste philosophy is part of your belief system/lifestyle? -Is it because you think it's a quick way to get rich and famous? It's hard to make a useful plan when you don't have a destination or clear end result you are trying to achieve

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2 Choose your fabrics

The next step is to select the fabrics that you will use for your zero-waste collection. You should look for fabrics that are sustainable, durable, and versatile. You may want to use organic, recycled, or upcycled fabrics, or fabrics that have low water and energy consumption, such as hemp, linen, or bamboo. You should also consider the width, weight, and texture of your fabrics, and how they will affect your pattern cutting and sewing.

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Rocío Evenett ??????

Feral soft goods engineer stitching ideas into products ready to sell in the creator economy | Fashion Industry 4.0 Technology & manufacture education for designers from a USA Micro-Factory
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Using only natural fibers is your best bet, as any synthetic blends (even recycled or up-cycled) will contaminate as good as any other synthetic fabric Using up-cycled or end of line trim and notions is always a good idea

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3 Cut your patterns

One of the most important steps in creating a zero-waste fashion collection is cutting your patterns. You need to design your patterns in a way that they fit together like a puzzle, leaving no gaps or scraps. You can use different methods to achieve this, such as nesting, tessellating, or folding. You can also use software, such as Valentina or Seamly2D, to help you create zero-waste patterns. You should test your patterns on paper or muslin before cutting your final fabrics.

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Rocío Evenett ??????

Feral soft goods engineer stitching ideas into products ready to sell in the creator economy | Fashion Industry 4.0 Technology & manufacture education for designers from a USA Micro-Factory
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This is the MOST important skill in creating a zero-waste collection as it is the ONLY thing you will have full control of It's a lot harder to control the width of the fabrics, the fiber content or the source but you can change your design and pattern as many times as necessary to make full use of the materials

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4 Sew your garments

Once you have cut your patterns, you can start sewing your garments. You should use techniques that minimize waste and enhance your design, such as flat-felled seams, French seams, or bias binding. You should also avoid using zippers, buttons, or snaps, as they can create waste and limit your design options. Instead, you can use ties, loops, or hooks to fasten your garments. You should also try to use the same thread color for all your garments, to avoid waste and simplify your process.

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Rocío Evenett ??????

Feral soft goods engineer stitching ideas into products ready to sell in the creator economy | Fashion Industry 4.0 Technology & manufacture education for designers from a USA Micro-Factory
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I consider sewing the second most important skill to create a zero-waste collection, but I don't agree that using zippers, buttons or snaps can create waste... specially if you are re-purposing trims and buy overstocks

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5 Decorate your garments

The next step is to decorate your garments, if you wish to add some details or embellishments. You should use materials that are consistent with your zero-waste concept, such as scraps, trimmings, or beads. You can also use techniques that are low-waste or no-waste, such as embroidery, applique, or patchwork. You should avoid using materials that are toxic, synthetic, or non-biodegradable, such as plastic, glue, or sequins. You should also avoid using materials that are too bulky or heavy, as they can affect the fit and drape of your garments.

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6 Finish your collection

The final step is to finish your collection, by pressing, labeling, and packaging your garments. You should use tools and materials that are eco-friendly, such as steam irons, organic cotton labels, and recycled paper tags. You should also avoid using materials that are unnecessary, such as pins, clips, or hangers. You should also think about how you will present your collection, whether it is on a runway, a photoshoot, or a website. You should showcase your zero-waste concept and your creative vision, and inspire others to join the movement.

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7 Here’s what else to consider

This is a space to share examples, stories, or insights that don’t fit into any of the previous sections. What else would you like to add?

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Rocío Evenett ??????

Feral soft goods engineer stitching ideas into products ready to sell in the creator economy | Fashion Industry 4.0 Technology & manufacture education for designers from a USA Micro-Factory
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I consider the zero-waste movement more of a technical challenge that some of us with a strong pattern drafting background use every now and then to expand our creative abilities

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What are the steps to creating a zero-waste fashion collection?

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1 Plan your concept

2 Choose your fabrics

3 Cut your patterns

4 Sew your garments

5 Decorate your garments

6 Finish your collection

7 Here’s what else to consider

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