What are some tips for creating smooth camera movements?

One thing I've found helpful has been to focus on the less complicated shots as well as those with less movement in them as this will potentially affect your shooting schedule if you don't get them right and also think wisely about using motion. Not every shot needs motion and sometime you can cheat a little if you need a very slow push in (digital zoom in post)

In my experience as a professional videographer I have found that if you can visit the site before the actual event you can see what your camera angles can be. If it is a wedding I ALWAYS go to the rehearsal and draw out where my cameras will be. If it is a multi camera shoot, try to make sure that one camera is not in view of another.

As a steadicam operator and cam-op nothing beats a tripod's stability. Every movie has a tripod shot in them no matter what. Trust the basics.

Here’s a little tip I use all the time. Always keep a rubber/elastic band in your tripod bag. If you place one end of the band around the tripod handle and pull the other when panning or tilting, the band will smooth out any small jerky movements, giving you a super smooth pan or tilt. This is especially helpful when shooting something with a macro or telephoto lens as even the slightest movement is noticeable on the footage. As a jewellery videographer for many years, this tip has saved my shots many times!

I completely agree with a steady tripod and having a fluid head along with using a remote. One thing that I would like to add to this is that you always want to make sure your tripod has a level bubble on it. A crooked shot is a bad shot and that adds time fixing in post production.

Tripod heads come in various types, each serving specific purposes. The most common types include ball heads, pan-tilt heads, gimbal heads, and fluid heads. Ball heads provide quick and flexible adjustments in multiple axes by loosening a single knob to reposition the camera. Pan-tilt heads allow separate control over horizontal (pan) and vertical (tilt) movements, offering precise adjustments but might take longer to set up. Gimbal heads are ideal for long lenses, providing smooth and stable support while allowing fluid movement in different directions. Fluid heads offer smooth, controlled movements for panning and tilting. Practice using each type to understand their capabilities.

I completely agree with a steady tripod and having a fluid head along with using a remote. One thing that I would like to add to this is that you always want to make sure your tripod has a level bubble on it. A crooked shot is a bad shot and that adds time fixing in post production.

Setting up and using a camera slider requires a few straightforward steps. Attach the camera mount securely to the carriage or platform. Next, place the slider on a stable surface or tripod and ensure it's levelled to prevent tilting. You can adjust the tension or damping settings on the slider to suit your desired motion control. You can securely mount your camera onto the slider, ensuring it's balanced and stable. Set your desired frame rate and exposure settings on the camera. Gently push or pull the carriage along the track, maintaining consistent speed for smooth and cinematic shots. You can experiment with different speeds, angles, and camera movements to add dynamism to your footage.

Gimbals come in various types, each designed for specific uses and equipment: handheld gimbals, wearable gimbals, and larger, specialised gimbals for heavier cameras or professional setups. Handheld gimbals like the DJI Ronin-S or Zhiyun Crane are portable and versatile, ideal for shooting on-the-go, vlogging, or capturing smooth footage with mirrorless or DSLR cameras. Wearable gimbals like the DJI Osmo Pocket or the Insta360 GO are compact and lightweight, suitable for attaching to clothing or accessories for hands-free shooting during activities like sports or travel. Larger, more robust gimbals like the DJI Ronin series or Freefly Systems' MoVI are designed for heavy cinema cameras or professional rigs.

Speaking from the CGI corner. I learned by doing, less is more. Especially in CGI where cams have no weight and you can move them wherever you want. Don't overdo it just because you can. Learning from the traditional art like movies, was the best teacher for me. Try to emulate what the pro's are doing in the movies and with the practice step by step you'll get a feeling for it. I'm still practicing all the time!

Practice your move but do not take forever. With a ton of moving parts and different roles on the set, everyone waiting for the cameraman to prep his shot just doesn't make sense. Practice before a shoot, at your own time. Rehearse on set. And roll the cam.

Practice practice practice. You never know how many takes you will get on the shoot day. Sometimes you will find yourself shooting something that isn’t repeatable. The best way to prepare for this is to have your skills sharpened. Each method of moving the camera requires varying levels of skill but once you master the basics, that’s when the fun begins.

The thing with IBIS (In-Body Image Stabilization) is that however smooth your handheld movement is, there will always be some 'jitters' in your clips. Indeed, camera nowadays has crazy, mind-boggling IBIS feature that can reduce a huge amount of jitters in your footage. However, if your camera hasn't got the latest IBIS specs, I do recommend giving extra weight to your setup such as rigging your camera. At least for me, the extra weight countered my movements and removed those micro jitters.

In a nutshell i would say that precision has no shortcut. You have to practise and practise and practise. As excellence is a way of life and not an event. The more you practise the more you get it right and perfect the art/craft. But then again you need the right and functional tools/equipment, the right team with right attitude towards what you want achieve, have a proper production plan which has your shot list and plan the shots to give desired story or purpose.

This probably goes without saying... Don't forget to work on your stamina and flexibility. No joke. Warm up before and warm down after. I worked with an experienced DP on a travel show, and on the 2nd day, he pulled his back muscle while using a stabiliser. The days after, I saw him warming up every morning. He lasted till the end of the project.