How can you balance stretch and recovery in activewear textiles?

1 What are stretch and recovery?

Stretch is the ability of a fabric to extend or elongate when a force is applied to it, while recovery is the ability of a fabric to return to its original shape and size after the force is removed. Both stretch and recovery are expressed as percentages, indicating how much the fabric changes in length or width under a certain load and how much it recovers after the load is released. For example, a fabric that stretches 50% and recovers 90% means that it can extend to 1.5 times its original length and then shrink back to 0.9 times its original length.

2 How are stretch and recovery measured?

There are different methods and standards to measure stretch and recovery, depending on the type and purpose of the fabric. Some common ones are the ASTM D2594, which uses a constant-rate-of-extension (CRE) machine to apply and release a load to a fabric sample, and the ASTM D3107, which uses a fixed-load and fixed-extension method to measure the growth and shrinkage of a fabric sample. These methods can measure the stretch and recovery in one direction (uniaxial) or in both directions (biaxial) of the fabric. The results can vary depending on the speed, duration, and frequency of the load, as well as the temperature and humidity of the testing environment.

3 What factors influence stretch and recovery?

The stretch and recovery of a fabric depend on several factors, such as the fiber type, yarn structure, fabric construction, finishing treatments, and garment design. Some fibers, such as elastane, rubber, and spandex, have inherent high elasticity and can provide high stretch and recovery. Other fibers, such as cotton, wool, and silk, have low elasticity and can provide low stretch and recovery. The yarn structure also affects the stretch and recovery, as twisted, textured, or coiled yarns can create more elasticity than straight or smooth yarns. The fabric construction also plays a role, as knitted fabrics tend to have more stretch and recovery than woven fabrics, and different types of knit stitches can create different degrees of elasticity. Additionally, some finishing treatments, such as heat setting, resin coating, or mechanical stretching, can modify the stretch and recovery of a fabric. Finally, the garment design can also influence the stretch and recovery, as the cut, shape, size, seams, and closures can affect how the fabric behaves on the body.

5 How to manipulate the fabrics for activewear?

Once you have chosen the fabrics for your activewear, you can manipulate them to enhance or modify their stretch and recovery, as well as their other properties and features. For instance, cutting the fabric along the direction of the greatest stretch usually creates more ease and movement, while cutting along the direction of the least stretch usually creates more stability and support. Additionally, using different types of stitches, such as zigzag or overlock, can create more elasticity and flexibility in the seams, while using straight stitches can create more rigidity and strength. Finishing techniques, such as hemming or edging, can also create more or less stretch and recovery in the edges of the garments. Furthermore, different types of elastic can be used to create more or less tension and compression in waistbands, cuffs, or leg openings.

6 Here’s what else to consider

This is a space to share examples, stories, or insights that don’t fit into any of the previous sections. What else would you like to add?