What are the pros and cons of using universal, ballpoint, or stretch needles for knit fabrics?

1 Universal needles

Universal needles are the most common type of sewing machine needles, and they can be used for both woven and knit fabrics. They have a slightly rounded tip that can penetrate most fabrics without snagging or tearing. However, they are not ideal for very stretchy or delicate knit fabrics, such as jersey, rib, or lace. Universal needles can cause skipped stitches, uneven seams, or holes in these fabrics, especially if you use a straight stitch. To avoid these problems, you should use a narrow zigzag stitch, a stretch stitch, or a twin needle with universal needles. You should also test your needle size and tension on a scrap of fabric before sewing.

2 Ballpoint needles

Ballpoint needles are designed specifically for knit fabrics. They have a more rounded tip than universal needles, which allows them to slide between the loops of the knit fabric without piercing or breaking them. This reduces the risk of skipped stitches, puckered seams, or damaged fabric. Ballpoint needles are suitable for most knit fabrics, except for very fine or tightly woven ones, such as microfiber or spandex. Ballpoint needles can also cause problems if you use a very thick or stiff thread, such as cotton or polyester. To avoid these problems, you should use a thin or stretchy thread, such as nylon or woolly nylon, with ballpoint needles. You should also adjust your stitch length and width according to the fabric thickness and stretchiness.

3 Stretch needles

Stretch needles are a special type of ballpoint needles that are made for very stretchy or elastic knit fabrics, such as spandex, lycra, or fleece. They have a longer eye and a deeper scarf than ballpoint needles, which creates more room for the thread to move and stretch with the fabric. This prevents the thread from breaking or snapping when the fabric is stretched. Stretch needles are also more durable and resistant to heat than ballpoint needles, which makes them ideal for sewing synthetic fabrics. However, stretch needles are not suitable for non-stretchy or loosely woven knit fabrics, such as sweater knits, terry cloth, or velour. Stretch needles can cause the fabric to bunch up, distort, or run in these fabrics. To avoid these problems, you should use a stabilizer, such as interfacing or tissue paper, with stretch needles. You should also lower your presser foot pressure and use a longer stitch length with stretch needles.

4 Here’s what else to consider

This is a space to share examples, stories, or insights that don’t fit into any of the previous sections. What else would you like to add?