What are the benefits and drawbacks of using exposure compensation vs manual mode in studio?

1 Exposure compensation: quick and easy

Exposure compensation is a feature that allows you to adjust the exposure by a certain number of stops, usually from -3 to +3, in increments of 1/3 or 1/2. It works by telling the camera to make the image brighter or darker than what it thinks is correct, based on the metering mode and the scene. Exposure compensation is useful when you want to quickly fine-tune the exposure without changing the other settings. For example, if you're using aperture priority mode and you want to keep the same depth of field, but you think the image is too dark or too bright, you can use exposure compensation to fix it. Exposure compensation is also handy when you're using flash, as it can affect the ambient light without changing the flash output.

2 Exposure compensation: limited and inconsistent

However, exposure compensation also has some drawbacks, especially in studio photography. One of them is that it's limited by the camera's exposure range. If you set the exposure compensation too high or too low, you might end up with overexposed or underexposed areas that cannot be recovered in post-processing. Another drawback is that exposure compensation is not consistent across different scenes and lighting conditions. If you change the position, angle, or distance of the light source, or if you move the subject or the camera, the exposure compensation value might not be appropriate anymore. You'll have to check the histogram and the LCD screen constantly and adjust the exposure compensation accordingly. Exposure compensation also depends on the metering mode, which can be fooled by contrasty or reflective surfaces.

3 Manual mode: precise and consistent

Manual mode is a mode that lets you set the aperture, shutter speed, and ISO independently, without relying on the camera's metering. Manual mode gives you precise and consistent control over the exposure, as you can adjust each parameter to achieve the desired effect. For example, if you want to create a shallow depth of field, you can use a wide aperture and a fast shutter speed. If you want to freeze motion, you can use a high shutter speed and a high ISO. If you want to create a dark or dramatic mood, you can use a small aperture and a low ISO. Manual mode is also ideal for studio photography, as you can match the exposure to the light output of your strobes or continuous lights. You can use a light meter or a test shot to determine the correct settings, and then keep them consistent throughout the session.

4 Manual mode: challenging and time-consuming

However, manual mode also has some challenges, especially for beginners or casual photographers. One of them is that manual mode requires a lot of practice and experience to master. You need to understand how each parameter affects the exposure and the image quality, and how to balance them to get the best results. You also need to be familiar with your camera and its controls, as you'll have to change them frequently and quickly. Another challenge is that manual mode can be time-consuming and distracting. If you change the lighting or the scene, or if you want to experiment with different effects, you'll have to adjust the settings accordingly. This can take away your attention from the subject and the composition, and make you miss some opportunities or expressions.

5 Here’s what else to consider

This is a space to share examples, stories, or insights that don’t fit into any of the previous sections. What else would you like to add?