How do you collaborate and communicate with wool growers, processors, and buyers?

Understanding the various characteristics of wool, and the applications that each of these suit, is essential to not only selecting who you work with, but the quality of your product too. On some occasions it may be that you want to work with a particular grower, or have limitations in your processing supply chain due to certain brand values, including locality or organic. Therefore communicating with them to understand their needs, and vice versa, will ensure you're both getting the relationship and product you require. On top of the comment that knowing your wool can help with expectations, it can also assure your customers across the chain in terms of traceability.

If you're looking to establish a relationship with a particular grower, then it's unlikely you'll find them at industry events. They'll be at the farm tending to their flock, or living nomadically with their herd. Some may have sheep shearing days, or you may be able to attend local shows, and build an awareness of their approach. With processors, it is probably more apt to show your commitment by attending an open day. That being said, you may not be able to find some facilities if you don't attend shows. Finding fabric mills is a good first step before heading upstream to the processors and the growers, because you can establish the quality of the finished product, and then ask the mill questions about those in their chain.

Along with being aware of the current and emerging opportunities, it is also necessary to recognise the limitations and challenges with the fibre. Often it isn't consumers making the demand, and so they may not be cognisant to the benefits of wool. The wool market fluctuates according to lots of external factors, but realistically it is the buyers that are controlling who can access what, and therefore the drive of brands to use wool, and consequently the access to consumers. For instance, during 2020, the price of UK wool dropped because there were no aeroplanes, and wool is generally used as carpeting here. It may appear that there is no market, but sometimes it takes a driving force to bring it to fruition.

Technology is useful to interact with customers, due to the added value of traceability measures. However, technology could be a hindrance for certain steps in the chain where it does require a particular hands-on or emotional skill. In particular with growers, nature over technology is most important. Yet, an increase in better management systems that reduce water and energy or clean wastewater are useful for the processors in the chain, not only to save costs, but to improve their environmental and social credentials. On that point of credentials, while technology may not be used heartily by a grower, it does allow them to tell their story to a wider audience, or be involved in such certification programs that work with their values.

I agree that there needs to be agility with the product you're developing from wool, yet at the same time, it is likely you're using wool because of its inherent characteristics and so you wouldn't readily switch to something else in times of challenges. Rather you would seek out the effective communication channels that will allow you to find solutions collaboratively, with growers or processors or your customers. Planning ahead - so adopting best practices from the get go - will ensure adaptation is built in to your business model and product, rather than an afterthought as the challenge arises.

To an extent this is true; the industry is evolving if we look at improvements in waste and chemical management, animal welfare, traceability and product offering. However, it is a very old fibre, and so rather than constantly seeking to innovate, there is grace in stepping back and considering the indigenous wisdom, the textile heritage, the stories of craftspeople at every step of the chain. The wool industry is facing scrutiny from many angles, including the synthetic fibre industry, so as someone wanting to use wool as a raw material in a product, you have to be willing to hold all of that and recognise there is no right or wrong way, but that there are responsible practices.